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Gearbox removal

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ratta tat tat
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2012/11/20 22:06:13 (permalink)
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Gearbox removal

Hey
I have to pull the gearbox off a pinto which is all in situ. I don't have a gearbox jack and although I can borrow one I would rather not have to. So is there a good way to split it from the block without the trolley? I was thinking of putting the engine crane inside the car and slinging a rope around the gearbox through the shifter hole.?? Any tips would be great. thanks
#1


46 Replies Related Threads

    maxrs
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    Re:Gearbox removal 2012/11/20 23:51:50 (permalink)
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    Too late to go through it. Give me a bell.
    Can you bench press 40kg?

    What you think about, you bring about.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eoPEt3rDSSE
    "If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough." - Mario Andretti
    #2
    maxrs
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    Re:Gearbox removal 2012/11/20 23:59:23 (permalink)
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    A trolley jack under the maincase works. Just mind the cast iron.
    This thread brings back bad memories of this years Noosa hillclimb.
    I had a flywheel come loose first run.

    What you think about, you bring about.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eoPEt3rDSSE
    "If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough." - Mario Andretti
    #3

    ratta tat tat
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    Re:Gearbox removal 2012/11/21 00:22:41 (permalink)
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    Cheers Mark. I'm unable to work on my eskie for at least another week. I know what needs to be done out there, but now obsessing over it!
    Bad luck at the hillclimb   Did you get it fixed on the day??
    I'm guessing my trolley jack with a bit of ply on top and ratchet straps might do it. I can lift 40kg, how long I can keep it there is the problem
    #4
    PaulMk1
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    Re:Gearbox removal 2012/11/21 00:23:15 (permalink)
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    I have done a few now bench press style - two solo, but an extra pair of hands/arms makes a real difference!
     
    #5
    hendo
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    Re:Gearbox removal 2012/11/21 06:42:35 (permalink)
    +2 (2)
    The first thing to do is remove 1 engine xmember bolt and go down the bolt shop and get 4 that are 2.5-3 inches longer.
    Replace the bolts and let the cross member down about 2 inches from the chassis, then attend to the rest of the removal. I can assure you the extra couple of inches space at the top is a god sent when you are trying to withdraw the input shaft from the pressure plate fingers, wait till you are putting it back in
    and those bolts will be the best friend you ever had!! dont forget to put the orignals back in and keep the long ones safe in cottonwool.
    The next best thing is fit an auto tunnel!!


    #6
    Matt75
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    Re:Gearbox removal 2012/11/21 08:05:41 (permalink)
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    +1 for above.
     
    Matt

     
    My 4 door MK II Resto
    http://www.classic-ford.org/cfp/tm.aspx?m=37623

    RS Owners Club Victoria Committee Member - http://rsocvic.com/
     
     
    #7
    joeyjonsey
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    Re:Gearbox removal 2012/11/21 10:48:46 (permalink)
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    I have done.it as above with the longer bolts etc which is pretty good , but I think pulling the engine and box out together is around the same time with less swear words, out the bottom goes good
    #8
    ratta tat tat
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    Re:Gearbox removal 2012/11/21 11:18:13 (permalink)
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    Cheers guys. The car has auto tunnel so plenty of room. I will still get these bolts and do it that way though. Thanks heaps
    #9
    Gdub
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    Re:Gearbox removal 2012/11/21 15:28:45 (permalink)
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    You wont need the longer bolts with an auto tunnel but it certainly pays to remove the rocker cover to allow the engine to 'rock back' further without touching the firewall. You will also need to undo your exhaust or you will likely break the pipe

    Make it go FASTER!
     
    #10
    hendo
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    Re:Gearbox removal 2012/11/21 20:30:27 (permalink)
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    If you already have the auto tunnel you wont need the bolts, the hardest part will be the speedo circlip or gearstick
    Depending on exhaust and manifold set up, you might follow Gdubs suggestions and remove the downpipe and rockercover.


    #11
    ratta tat tat
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    Re:Gearbox removal 2012/11/22 09:04:49 (permalink)
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    Yep I'll take off the rocker cover (and loosen off the engine mounts a fraction). I left the rocker cover on when installing the motor, it was tight but I got there in the end
    The headers have a flange so disconnecting the zorst will be simple. I have a drive shaft yoke now so might get out there tonight and make a start on it.
    The reason for removal is the clutch pivot spacer. I suspect I have a roll top clutch and it didn't need the spacer! Needs a different throwout bearing too so I've been told.
    #12
    joeyjonsey
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    Re:Gearbox removal 2012/11/22 10:48:29 (permalink)
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    I thought they just run a different throwout bearing but still use the spacer , that's what I run ,
    #13
    ratta tat tat
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    Re:Gearbox removal 2012/11/22 20:54:45 (permalink)
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    Gdub  it certainly pays to remove the rocker cover to allow the engine to 'rock back' further without touching the firewall.

    Gearbox is out. Very good advice about the engine rock Thanks Gdub

    #14
    Gdub
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    Re:Gearbox removal 2012/11/23 12:31:37 (permalink)
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    Post up pics of the fingers on your pressure plate and also the type of release bearing you currently have and i'll tell you in 2 seconds if that is your problem.
     
    All pinto's need the fork spacer regardless of which style of clutch fingers you have

    Make it go FASTER!
     
    #15
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