BEE VEE
All over for effect, efficiency and classic "looks" , nothing beats ORIGINAL when it comes to radiators in mho of 50 years experience............  my V6 has had the same original rad since car was new in 1972 (yes 48 years) and runs so cool along with a 82 deg 'Stat, that I removed the fan blades over 3 years ago .........  always sits on 1/2 way mark and never goes into inner Melbourne grid-lock stress. Strictly normal moving traffic of at least 60kph in metro. Always run 33% concentrated AF/AB with 66% demineralised water straight out of the Fridge Filtered water system ! 
(When you see the crap in the water you (should) save in shower-bucket waiting for cold to turn hot, you'd never use unfiltered tap water again !)
 Same as above goes for my 57 FE Holden, 1965 Valiant and both 351C V8's, etc

mine is the same only ever gets just above the blue when cruising at night or normal driving and in summer at times to half way now, where before it only ever got to between the blue and half way  , but Sydney is no escaping traffic its always there.  I do prefer the oem to alloy.   when caught in traffic it gets to half way real quick and on comes the thermos fan , I just don't like the way it gets to half way real quick in traffic.  cant really avoid traffic when living in the Sydney city suburbs.
I have been looking at a recore and quoted 600 for it. I also been looking at fitting a slightly bigger crossflow one as well that will sit under the bonnet in its home some just to big or to high.. the only couple I have seen might work but are just a tad bigger in the core .. im thinking of going to a rad mob who has universal ones that might work for now .. looking at this style now .. still have not fixed the stalling issue as of yet 
 
https://www.ebay.com.au/i...d5e:g:fgwAAOSw~~5cRU-R
 

BEE VEE
 

..................I can have it sitting on idle for ages and it wont stall................ 


 
These are your words. They tell me that while idling and behaving, your car is not shaking and moving as normal on the road, so the "bad connection" is just staying connected enough to run her at idle, and not going open circuit and stalling the engine as soon as road movement causes open circuit somewhere in ignition circuit.
 
Has yours got "Steering Lock", or is it pre-1971/72?
 
INSIST on getting your original RAD "rodded" out (top tank off) assuming core doesnt look rotten ........  most Rad shops would condemn a Brand New genuine oem Rad as they know there so much profit in a new rad or even a new CORE ! .........  human nature and the economy.  Keep trying till you get a "tradesman" who is happy and confident to "rod" it out and re-solder top tank AND both hose nipples .............. why am I saying this? ... You wont listen !
Go for the chinese special. At least you'll have a second backup for when you go back to original.
 


its got steering lock … I swapped out radiator with a alloy one I modded to get me by . will  recore std one . cooling is pretty good now even on a 35dg day was just over the blue .. just.. but I still get the stalling , im going to rip the ignition out and check that . also was thinking of by passing resistor wire with 12v coil and ignition feed .. it can sit without stalling doesn't stall when moving just when sitting at ldle at lights etc at times.  I thought id put on the holley just to try again brought a new f150 throttle cable  tried it but the same old crap still stalls ,   so today ill check ignition switch , and buy a new 12v coil and wire that up to the accuspark see if it makes a difference.
 
the stalling seem to occur when I go for a drive and turn it off the restart it . and even at home , once I start it if I don't turn it off it will go for a while . but if I turn it off it will start the stalling issue .. ive changed half the stuff in the engine bay so now im going to go with the resistor wire  and check also the back of the ignition..  ive read a faulty tacho can or might make it stall my works spot on so not sure it it would be that
 

BEE VEE
Can't believe how much you're punishing yourself !
Brings to mind the saying. "You can point a horse to water but you can t make him drink it "

what can I say. 
I have looked in other uk forums and seen  people with the same issue , and all did what I have almost changed everything..  so at least im not alone in the punishment. lol   problem is nobody comes back to say they found the issue, or what the problem was. as on here some say from carby to points . electronic ignition, fuel pump, leads, fuses , tacho  the list goes on .  so I have been eliminating as many easy ones first . I will find it it will probably be something simple and stupid , 
 

took it out for another drive and it hasn't stall yet fingers crossed it stays like that . ill try take it for a good drive and hope it fixed the problem .  after that I will pull the dash out and check the original resistor wires and joint for any bad connection and replace resistor wire

Wiggy333
Fingers crossed mate. The resistance wire is a hard wire and after 50 years I reckon at the fire wall connector it has sheared. Gets connection when cold but heat makes a bad connection plus the added vibration when driving. Cools down to get some sort of connection back. I reckon you could try 50 carbs and that ain't the issue.
I don't see any point nowadays keeping a 9 volt system when batteries nowadays don't need it.
A ballast wire that's 50 year old that heats to make it 9v is not my friend. Get rid of it and go a 12v coil. Let any purist watch their car burn if they believe it's the best system.
My Perana had that **** changed as my first priority.

yeah im with you on that keith not going back to that resistor wire staying with the 12 volt .. been real good so far and no stalling since I changed over to 12v ..  haven't pulled dash out to check the wire system yet but will probably do so ..  now just got wire up tacho 
stay safe everybody from this virus crap
 tell ya what tho the replacement rad I got and modified it a bit to fit works a treat the car even in standing traffic stays on the blue and doesn't even go over , makes ahell of a lot of difference to cooling , I will get the original recored and just leave it in the box