Good move hiding extra in line fuses behind DASH............also, introducing a Fusible Link on the Positive Starter Terminal is a very safe addition, & not noticed as an addition, as the type I'm referring to looks like any other wire on the Main Feed..........should ANY Major shorts occur, this F~L~ will break the Main Feed until the problem is found and you renew it. It won't blow when just one of the circuits blow the other fuses of less than 35 amp.
A 35 Amp Fusible Link should be heaps, but if you want to be sure, as very few cars are stock in electrics any more, disconnect one battery terminal and fit an accurate Analogue or Digital Amp guage in series capable of 45 amp or more (Digital Guage is preferable). Turn on ALL switches to all circuits Inc reverse gear , Radio, Rear screen Demister, Heater Hi speed, Indicators, Radiator and hi beams, etc.
With help from apprentice , observe Testing Amp Guage when helper holds foot on brake and holds Horn on......... Starter Motor IS NOT in this Test as it's NOT fused....... If total LOAD comes to, say, 31 Amp, always go for a F Link next higher rating like 35 Amp............ If it's 34 Amp, go to 40 Amp rating F Link. Never go smaller.
If in doubt, get a Qualified Auto Electrician to do it.
NB.......ALL connections should ALL be soldered. If you rely on "crimping", you're asking for trouble and you needn't bother with the above Test. Crimped connections increase in " resistance" over time and then cause that circuit to draw more current than that wire was designed to carry, until it all ends in tears.
Ensure all connections are cleaned and kept clean . Then protect with proper Contact Spray.
All terminals and all wires must be fully insulated and tight.
post edited by BEEVEE - 2017/09/26 09:22:52