Must say, that the original thickness grip is quite small compared to current cars, I think my mk2 which got a trimmer to leather the RS wheel brought the diameter up to modern car thickness but the focus has gone a little bigger again and yes it's really tight on there. For $3 they supply the cover, 2x needles and a 100mtr of thread of what ever color you choose , I don't understand how they do it either !!
might go for a drive and see if any couches are on the sidewalk with black leather, a good source of material..
Then pattern a wheel and have a go as well, and check that vid on how to measure it all up

What type of filament is that? My stock ones ended up breaking where they slide over the metal post. 

it was just PLA, which was just to hand and  in the machine at the time.
If it looks like it works ok, I can change the drawing to beef it up, or get better quality.
 
Or print another.
 

Pretty neat cover there, stitch looks a little long, maybe you was expecting some more pull in . The spoke edges look fantastic tho.
Mine was done 25yrs ago by a trimmer and still holding up, his join was done at the bottom spoke. I have fears of doing one myself but gotta try one day.
Have you seen the horn button with the checker flags ? Since we don't own RSs we don't want to pretend to have one.. Someone in UK is either printing or resin mold . I reckon a decent pic and measurements it could be copied and printed

I think i get it, stitch first, trim, then pull tight to get it small and flush? I mean if you had went a dark or black thread you would have to really inspect it to see that its a bit longer than normal. The white just makes it stand out more. 

Hats off though, its a tough thing to do and youre well on the right path to nailing it.

Yeah he's done some good vids in the past and straight up and down, no nonsence.
Speaking of Bike TIB's.. and 3D printing, I saw there's been an upgrade to CAD software Freecad.
I downloaded it yesterday to take a  quick look, (https://www.freecad.org/downloads.php) and noticed when you start a drawing you can choose what interface it looks like, and there''s one for Tinkercad.
So if anyone wants to start playing, you can learn Tinkercad and working with block shapes, and grouping, then go to another program thats similar in thought process.
 
The black Friday got to me, I ordered another set of headlights, just more original Narva ones with parkers fitted.
My Ali express ones were a bit too modern with the reflector style and bugged me.
 
And I also caved in and ordered a legit set of 2up 2 down driving light brackets from SMCKA.
Instead of getting some gas, and learning to  Ali Mig, which might have been a good project, I figured the Alu bar would be $30 or so, $20+ for some stainless bolts, vs $120 (or $60 each sounds better) and spend 3 hours doing something else. Just have to hide them under the tree.......

My daughters Focus  has 74K on the clock, and purchased new. Its prob due for the belt to be done time wise, plus she has a new job, so if a new car is on the cards next year or so, I might see how piddling its worth as a trade in., who knows? A bit of a waste really as its a good car and ideal as someones first car.
 
Dave's Garage has been motivational down this path, but I still like the idea of the Pinto still, as it was designed, and period correct for the van, apart from a few mods.
 
So long as the current,unknown engine has some power, enough not to be embarrasing at least, I'll be happy pottering about town. The Gold Peril 4 door l was alot of fun once it was on the road and that engie was essential just stock.
 
Waiting for the spotlight brackets to come in, so I can finish the bumper mountings, making sure they fit around the brackets all ok.
 
Then maybe play around with the  GPS head unit and speakers, rather than painting and sanding over xmas.
I thought of 3D printing the gearlever surround portion and front face of the console, as it is likely to comprise mostly of folded sheetmetal with vinyl covering. Bonus points for fitting a cupholder in somewhere.
 
Time for your CAD method, then real (Tinker) CAD, then some sewing.