Wow that is a good price for the mk2 heater matrix. Even though I already bought mine I checked and they don't seem to do MK1's? Anyway hope it goes well. I would pressure test it before fitting.
 
Your drawing looks okay to me Mark. Just make sure that nothing vents to atmosphere (ie from the rocker cover) .
 
In NSW the blue slip is where you generally get pulled up for a charcoal canister. If it was fitted OEM with that engine configuration then it generally has to be there.
Depending on the person doing the slip, seeing the canister in the engine bay will suffice as long as your not pumping sump vapours to atmosphere.
 
Also would I be correct in saying, keep an eye on the catch can in case it decides to fill with oil and send it to intake runner #4?
 
There you go with actually testing various setups on a dyno. Though he did not discuss jetting etc which you would have to assume is pretty close for all setups tested. Really not much in it. I listened twice just for that beautiful sound

a very friendly santa in Adelaide sent me a nifty little oil catch can, complete with site tube and connection fittings.
 
Another Penguin fan here too.
His poor test mule pinto has had a bit of a hard life but is still chugging away.

Not much to update on this week cause I'm back at work to pay for all the parts I need .

Caliper spacers arrived but one of the O rings was no good so i'll need to pop to Pirtek or somewhere similar to grab a replacement. It bothers me that the supplier inner bolts are so long so i'll probably pop into the bolt place next door to Pirtek and see if I can get shorter ones. 

Yeah regarding the Downs vs Sides that 4 BHP could be made up with trumpets / gasket matching the inlet manifold or a few other little tricks to get better flow out the engine, the problem with the pinto engine has always been the heads ability to flow. Considering I need the valve seats machined in the cylinder head it would be remiss of me not to get bigger valves, so I've ordered new stainless ones that I can give to the machine shop when I drop the engine there.  
 
 

looks good.
I would have angle grinded the bolts down too.
Was it the pesky orings that go on each side of the spacer?
 
I had the same issue when one of the caliper pistons got stuck in on the 4 door (still cant get it out), and needed to swap the whole caliper housing over for a spare.
Interesting the vented disk that had been used on mine was a DBA part number, that matched to a Mazda 323
 

More stuff happening, went and got a battery tray and box so I could dummy fit it ahead of paint/panel work. Decided to go with the drivers wheel well to offset the weight from the spare.
 
Also tried my hand with filling up some smaller holes around the car, did not too badly but it brought into focus my need for a filing sander / die grinder. I have nothing that can reach to smooth the welds on the back/under side.
 
 

 
Now I just need to decided if ill use the box or not, I think the box does make it look cleaner. Next job is to make up a MDF panel to close off the back end of the boot with little L bracket mounts. I'll use a cardboard template to get the shape then get the jigsaw out.

I thought about having it down in the well and that was the original plan, I changed my mind though because I couldn't figure out a way to anchor it to something solid. The three bolts on the inside go through the floor and the edge of the rail so its a good 3mm of material. 

It probably would have been fine on the thinner stuff but cowardice got the better of me  

Mark, This was from one of my old cars. I had the local sheetmetal shop bend up the stainless and as you can see its a typical old lead acid battery (this was 20 years ago).
So from memory I went through the side of the box section around where the hole is to get to the leaf hanger bolt.
And underneath I would have supported it from the bottom of the well.
Never had a problem

If not stainless, do it in alloy 😊