LSD, a good choice for fast road is a quaife LSD, it's very user friendly and no after adjustments required ever, unlike the clunker fomospo type . 3J, pricey for no extra gains.. which ever one you decide it'll be great fun getting the RS to slide ! I'm doing some research on the new brand on the block which has been used in drift cars and truck racing etc , look up Black Line LSD , they were cheap but are on par with quaife etc for performance... I'm thinking of getting one for the mk1 at a later stage..

RS 4 spoke update, I was told the next batch will be in store around March so if you want a set, get your name on them, first in with cash he gets them

After drowning my sorrows with a few glasses of red it was back to it. I've wrapped and numbered the engine bits and chucked them in a box. In a few weeks I'll be dropping the lot down to a place called Pearl Engineering, they've been recommended from multiple people so I'll get them to cast an eye over and give me a report on what needs done.

In the meantime I cracked on with the front calipers. We had a nice morning here so it was time to clean them up and paint them. 

 
 
Getting all the gunk off took a good hour with the brush and wire wheel. Once they were clean I hit them again with some thinner then acetone to get the last remaining residue off. After that I hit them with two light coats of caliper black, then a final thicker coat.
 

 


 
They've come up pretty good, I picked up four new pistons and a new rubber kit from Yesterford today and I've got a spacer kit coming for them so I can fit vented rotors on the front. I think they'll look nice with the contrasting pins and clips etc. I'll also hit the rotor hats and edges with the same paint once once I pick them up. Same with the rear calipers once I grab them.



 
 

That's a spot of luck , never good finding bits like that in the sump!

The thrust bearing out of mine barely had contact wear on it - only on one half right on the edge, it probably needed one size up minimum. 

All the new bits are in the calipers and they're on the bench curing so I started on the diff today. Stripped it back to metal, cleaned it and hit it with some heat to get any residue off then a brushed on a few coats of KBS. Not 100% happy with how it leveled out so far. I'll probably let it cure, give it a slight rub back and then give it another coat.

  

Hi Guys, funny you mention the KBS rust seal and blacktop.
I have trouble getting a good a good finish in the warmer weather so probably should look at getting some of their thinner?
On bits under the car I don't fuss too much but I'll be interested to know how the diff comes up if you do scuff it up and re-coat it Mark. It certainly looks okay in your photo. Better than mine done with rust seal
 
I have only had one thing bubble on me once (fuel tank) and I know it was thoroughly clean. I just cut out the section which was bubbling (about 50x50mm) cleaned it, re-coated and never had another issue.

^^ that Minisport website was a bit of a good find.
Having someone in Aus selling JBW's is a bonus.
I'm happy with their minilight repro that I got for the 4 door.
 
They were pretty safe 13x6, but had to be bought from Race and Rally in the UK, as no Aus dealers at the time.
Your Minisport mob would have worked out cheaper.
I think you are way on track for a 2 year turnaround.
 
And 2 month is looking quite possible also...:)
 
 
 

Ok I think I've cracked the KBS code - I sanded the whole thing back with 600 grit wed and dry, dried it off, cleaned it then used a new 5mm microfiber mini roller that's been washed in thinners and dried out.
 
Use the edge of the roller to get in the nooks and crannies then smooth it out and back roll - just like painting a wall. Came up really well and that's just one coat, I'm going to let it cure for a while, nock the nibs/dust off with some 1200 then do one final coat.

I know right . It's a sickness.


Last coat on - now ill let it dry then hit it with a light cutting compound in a few weeks for science. 

So the process applying the KBS from start to finish.
 
1. Full bare metal rub down, used wire wheel and stripping wheel on the grinder.
2. Cleaned with thinners then used a blowtorch to burn off any remaining residue.
3. Two coats brushed on, wasn't happy with finish so rubbed it back with 600 until smooth then cleaned with water then fully dried.
4. Applied one coat with 5mm microfiber mini roller, back rolled over it. The product is VERY forgiving, it has a long open time, I went back to the start to touch parts up after about 3 minutes and it still leveled out nice.
5. Allowed to dry for twoish hours until touch dry then gave it a VERY light rub with 1200 to knock the dust and a few other bits of crap off the surface.
6. Applied last coat same as step 4.
 

 
It's not perfect but I'm a lot happier with it now - I don't think I could have left it the way it was. Once it's had a light buff I think it'll come up even better. The diff casing will be painted matt silver which I think will make it pop quite nicely, Ill get the tramp rods and leaf spring brackets/shock mount powder coated matt silver too. 
  
 

You only know it's done right when you do it wrong first !

I did consider it! I'm headed back there for Christmas this year I think, the partner wants to spend it with her parents this year. By then I should be far enough along that I'll have a "definitive" list of what I'll need and organize it while I'm there because postage stacks up so fast. 

A pallet can be organized for a reasonable price but sea freight takes ages. I am going to try my best to source everything locally but there's just so much on offer there that you cant get here.