Nose cone wont go back on till the very end, I feel the same way and want it to be a one and done type thing.

Yah the large mounts have a helpful LH / RH stamp and the only other mount that has a side is the lower inner spacer. its a little shorter than the top one because the light mount is shorter at the bottom - its actually the one I forgot to take to the powder coaters the other day so I had one to help me line everything up!


 
I finished cleaning up the left hand indicator and chucked it in, I do need to replace the screws still though cause they didn't clean up as well as I would like. There is also a sneaky little mod in this photo that will be critical for something I have planned.... Secrets!!

Hey Mark have you seen those packs of metric bolts sold on AliExpress or ebuy for these silly items we come across. M3, M4, M5 cap head stainless with nuts in a tidy lunchbox of 500+ pieces for about $15
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrSoVhX
Might never use the lot but good to know they are handy. I've been using these for my build and other stuff.

At the moment it looks like a American 5mph bumper bar they used to have. Coming along steadily.
Would be great if there was a way to convert the old fuse style to modern blade ones , might look into that..
Should be able to get a fuse gasket local from your Ford mate, if not 3d print to the rescue. I'm getting measurements from the diff centre bush for the HB bar and will tackle it on Tinkercad this eve , I'm guessing it's a round bush not D shape. Will make from TPU so it's got flex. Also I was going to try to design the floor bungs to make , will see..

That's good news your getting a 3d printer, Deano and I can help you out if needed 👍 , maybe start with using petg as it's a bit trickier with settings than pla , the slicer will get it in the ballpark, then it's your job to adjust a few things here n there. You'll enjoy creating stuff in CAD and seeing it evolve into a real part.

Correct, SS isn't very strong so can't be used on any mild stress point. Those little kits are handy, mine is being used up on the heater box, grill etc , added to rivnuts has been a good combo !
Yerp, 8.8 or 10.8 grade is the go

Re SS. On the boats I use Tef-Gel to stop the stainless galling. Especially in contact with aluminium.
The only time I have ever seen SS fail was a trailer winch eye on the bow of a boat. Clean snapped.
 
On the escort build one of the in-situ lower control arm adjusters seized up on its 5/8" thread, (the other end is 9/16" LHT). I was stunned as the car had not even been off the hoist. I had to get a new tube nut made here as MST wanted a kidney. So i have lubed all the threads with copious amounts of anti seize.
 

deano
yes PM if anyone doesnt have a PDf copy.
And Drew, I finally got around. Are you still at same address?
 
 

PM sent.

New seals in, bearings are packed, calipers are buttoned up and that is everything ready to go minus brake pads.


 
I had a bit of extra time today so started the process of putting the heater box back in. As I said once I started putting in bits it's pushed the firewall blanket material right up against the firewall which is great.


 
I also have started the process of neatening up the wiring loom under the dash - even for a simple little car there is a fair bit of spaghetti to tame.

Ha great idea with the bolt on a separate plate to adjustment from the back, I went 20mm forward with mine from stock and he went 23mm so its looking like I was in the ballpark for max caster.

Looks like you have a science experiment of your own to do now Marty!