.... But when you lower the car 2in, you'll lose 1deg of caster... Apparently due to the pivot angle from the swaybar mount hinge swing..??
I'll get the dims tomorrow morn on the crush tube

Awesome thanks Marty, will hunt one down tomorrow.

The science experiment was successful! Just headed out to dinner so will post up more photos later but here was the finished result.





Holy castor batman! When you push the arm up it does swing back a little and ends up looking pretty neutral to the strut top hole.

Glad to have helped'd

deano
Now you've got me wondering if I've put all of the front end togetehr correctly.!

Does your cars steering feel planted at speed or "twitchy"? If it's twitchy you could have a castor issue. 

Sorry just realized you haven't drove it yet! Would be hard to tell in the driveway 

MarkA
Depends how long your driveway is
 
On the swaybar Mark. Generally they have a fair bit of thread on the ends which allow for some castor adjustment.
I'm not sure how much in terms of degrees? what is the angle between your red and blue line? 

 
No idea TBH  Eyeballing it maybe 3 degrees? It's a fair way forward from the standard factory position that's for sure.

Didn't get around to the crush tubes on the weekend so had a crack today - some gal 19mm tube with 1.2mm wall thickness got me in the ball park of those measurements Marty. The sweet spot for shortening them a little and still maintaining good crush without the castle nut bottoming out seems to be 27mm long so 3.5mm shorter than stock.



They fit well enough on the sway bar and through the bushes.
 

 

 
Also got some new bushes in the mail, it seems only Superpro had the double width in the 22mm readily available here in Aus, they fit nicely enough and hopefully they don't fall to bits like what happened to Drew. Fulcrum had them for a semi reasonable price with no postage so that's a small win. Still need to grab some spring washers before putting all four bolts in and nipping them up.
 
 
 
The castor this is producing seems excessive just looking at it . Only time will tell when it gets to the alignments stage. Should have the shockers next week so I can at least put together the struts and see how it looks in the right position.


 
Still waiting on the diff parts too - but basically all that's left to make her a roller is the diff, front shocks, hubs and wheel studs. Oh and my new body grommets arrived so I can finish up the butyl this weekend. That's a small job though so I might start putting the handbrake back in.
 

Trying to remember what my mk2 was at, it's got all factory parts except the Selby swaybar that's 24mm thick. Factory as in Ford parts bin, Capri struts and springs, mk2 cortina roller tops but a sneakily fitted Hillman Hunter spring tops , they are up side down version of escort ones which allow to lower without cut springs.!

Taking it to a align shop Way back when, the guy said I've about 3 to 3.5 neg camber and the struts also about 3 on caster, he said at full lock it's at 8 deg!! BMW style Ackerman..

Crush tubes should do the trick, just add a smidge of grease on the swaybar so the tube doesn't seize up, I've cut so many off because of it..

Yep Mark, those std measurements look vaguely familiar.
I suppose the reason stock camber is close to 0 is your average Joe would not appreciate forking out for new rubber every other month.
 
An old timer acquaintance who has been building rally cars all his life, suggested what is shown in the first two pics.
I filed those photos under the heading 'Flinstones Pics'
I could walk under the car and adjust. I suppose its really just a home version of what the alignment guys do.

To note; the sway bar that MST provided did not provide the articulation required and I bent the heim joints that connect it to the lower control arms. So I got Selby (local to me) to make me a bar after I made a template one from some rod.
 
Like anything, start modifying and it just transfers right the way through