lowering blocks are not in the mix?

Speaking of Tinker, I done a productive cad today, since I m doing diff stuff at the moment, I am unsure what rear brakes I'll be going with. I want to get this made up so when it's bolted in, that's it, done!
I can leave the drums on there but there's no fun in that so it's a disc conversion. My Anglia used Alfa rotors which were the same stud pattern but I had to machine the axle flange outer edge by a few mm so the hat clears, no big drama. Caliper was Honda S2000 but I'm going to use Focus mk1 rotors and possibly MK2 Focus calipers or Nissan S15 which can then use the standard escort handbrake cable . Which ever way I'll needs to be bolted so the rego mob don't complain, if it needs a check. So will run down that rabbit hole later.
What I did with the tinkercad site is make a bush for the handbrake rod, a few prototypes and got it just about spot on except the rod hole was measured from a mk1 thickness, 7.6mm but I then found a MK2 rod which is 10mm so it's just been updated and printing now.
I tried the first version for fit and it's snug, printed it in TPU so it's like the real rubber ones. There's no load on this, it's just to stop the bar rattling. If anyone wants one I'll send the file .
This is the first step, design it

Then move it to the slicer programme and adjust some settings like wall thickness etc

Print in TPU

Check fitment



Whether this will end up being used is for when I decide what brakes I'll be using

Yeah, I had 2in blocks in my first car, mk1 Escort and the ride felt so loose it just amplifies the movements, you could push the back quarter and see the body move sideways over the wheels, I'm talking a few mm, not much but that's gotta be bad. Maybe I left in the rubber pads, dunno, 35yrs ago!
Only time I had a leaf snap is taking it to the spring shop for reverse eyes, phone call saying it broke in the furnace get us another, yikes 😬.

Single leaf parabolic springs are worth getting, I've used a set in my mk2 while the multi's were being done and the ride quality was easy better, no friction or added weight. Just acquired another set of new 146lbs MK2 singles for a later project maybe

Busy couple of days in the shed on sanding the Rally Pack and getting those speaker pods to work. I ended up using rivnuts to mount the stainless plates and cap screws to hold in place, I did sika them down as well since sound vibes will prolly shake the bolts loose and since sika is also a glue, they won't be coming out without a fight !


The grey oval rings are 3D printed spacers
Once that was setting I moved to the diff housing since the 14mmx1.5 tap arrived in the mail along with a cheap magnet sump plug

Tapping the 5mm thick took a bit of strength to get started but was easy running after that

Fully fitted, I do have another low profile Allen head one coming so it won't dangle down so much

Jesus that thing is coming together fast!

I really like the use of the dead space for the speakers in the MK1 - it's a perfect spot for them really - might steal that idea for mine, was tossing up parcel shelf mounts but that would be so much cleaner.

Those 6x9 speaker mounts look good and placement is a great idea.
 
I'd hate to think how many escort parcel shelves were butchered using tin snips in the 90's!

I remember you getting sacked from the mot station cause of it, totally stupid rule, anyway you get it thru which is the main part.

Just spent this morn rubbing back the bulkhead cover and painted it in gloss jet black, as we're having a sunny day it was warming up before paint and looks to good to use for a mold , 1 sacrifice to help many others and all that .
It was done with that micro spray gun again , the 100ml pot was just enough too




It's now resting in a shady area of the shed on the metal folder

Yeah I can make you one when the mold is set to go. You won't need to cut the fuse hole if running a modern type inside !

Rear bumper time..
As the escort bumper pokes out like a sore thumb, I made a fglass one ages ago just so the mold was filled and keeps shape, so that was pulled out and trimmed up like a real one and then I started to kindig mod it by slicing the corners so they tuck in more and mostly hug the panel better, then I cut the bumper in half to reduce its length by about 20mm . Tested on both the project and the bubble mk1s so it does fit both.
This is the bumper cut and sliced

Not much removed but it'll make a huge difference to the appearance

The jointing brackets are just folded tin and Tek screws so it all lines up plus doing the cornice cut will make it easier to blend later

Material is a blend of chop stand mat and woven biaxial, it's super strong and light compared to just csm alone

Once set I'll remove the screws and start the sanding and filling process