martymexico
Hey Mark, door seals are all the wrong size thickness, ie generic. I have on occasions bent the weld seam inwards to release the squish spring effect, this is usually around the kick panel and dash. Another thing to try is pinch more holes so it lets the air out when the door is slammed, a few knife cuts or pin holes on the back edge sometimes helps.
Bailey channel is another thing that's annoying as the front part at the triangle window should be thinner but hard to find, if the usual stuff is used the window doesn't slide as easy as it should.

I not know much about Cossy stuff but thought the water pump be same as old pinno, maybe pulley height?
3 hundy$ is big money's..

Yes with the door seals I add a couple of small holes. I find that after  a while the new seals compress a bit where they should and the doors sit better.
The 4wd Cossie water pump is a different item from the 2wd/Pinto pump. It works with the 4wd thermostat assembly.
Pulley heights are the same. If you long stud the head, you then have to space the water pump so the impeller doesn't foul the front stud and then things get interesting.

Too right Mark, its going to be hard to buy from Burtons,Motomech or the others for awhile.
Has anyone tried Palmside in Enzed?
 
Obviously the $Au to $NZ works in our way, but they pretty much source from the UK anyhow.
 
I've bought Kiwi boat stuff from across the ditch, and they are superior in alot of stuff.
The funny thing I find is looking on Trademe, as its full of aussie sellers.
 
Locally, I missed out on a good Ghia tacho dash today on FB for $100.00 otherwise finding parts locally is a big challenge.

My home made welding trolley decided to have a blow out and spat the tyre off, nearly toppled over so while the replacement argon bottle was being swapped I cut the all the casters off and saving the best 2 for the front. Spacing the front up 50mm to match the rear which were stolen from my old golf cart, back in the day these cart wheels had integrated bearings and axle, I just welded it on. While there I cut the frame and took the handle part and welded that on too!

Back to the car.. I'm using a mk1 Cortina bonnet release so I don't need to run a cable to inside the car. This is pics of the spring lock not quite lining up with the slam panel, if you look closer I have cut the rod and bent it to better it's purchase but I think it needs more action, once it closes and opens easy I'll weld the rod to make solid.




Once it's all set and works as it should I'll put a stainless plate on the top so it looks nice and stops scratches

Another shed day sanding and filler, so won't be long on this, I was bouncing between my mk1 and the project rally pack which had a decent wallop on the rear quarter/side. I pushed and hammered most of it out and ran a few skims of filler to level it out. As I got close to saying that's it and primer time, the day was closing fast so enter the Deano roller system. Mixed the primer filler as I would for spray painting and just started to roller it on. I might have had a quiet laugh at Deano but now I'm converted, it's quiet, clean and precise , I used the regular furry rollers but I reckon either foam or short hair ones will be best. 2 maybe 3 coats of 2pk primer filler , it's not super flat but most will be sanded away to get shape. Also did the front guards on my mk1 while there was time to do so.
Need to ask Deano which is the better roller to use, tho I'll not be laying the top coat down this way , I'll spray it on as intended..





I'm still on track to paint the shell in about 2 weeks time so it's getting closer now

kitchen grade?
Does that mean the front of your 2 door fridge now was an icemaker door cut out of it?
 
Oh, and it wasn't a quiet laugh, I could hear from all the way from SA!
But 'sallright,  I will add you and Dave's Garage as converts.
 
5mm mohair is what you want for best finish if you do want to go further.
Unipro or even Monarch from Sausage Warehouse work fine.
The foam rollers  ends up chunking off for me with 2 the pack. 

Yeah, our fridge now has a aftermarket ice maker, don't tell the misso !
Must be a world record for me to post more than 1 in a day, anyway I spent a bit of time on the grill to straighten it up, polish and paint black, I didn't have any satin black so went gloss 2pk ( I can hear the anoraks moan and I don't care ) . While I had the compressor on I thought to use the mini spray
gun I bought a while ago, it actually is ok for these small jobs, best $12 spent ..
So I gloss blacked the grill, the dash steering support plate, the headlight buckets and the rear stone shield




Tomorrow I'll be back on the panels

I've been watching a few of the oldschool Coachbuilder/painter vids, where they do busses and canal barges all by brush.
 
Its suprising their technique thats used, and how much they actually end up pushing the paint around.
I usually have this nervous mindset that you have to get it on and flattenned as quick as possible, and with as minimal strokes as necessary. These guys really do keep going over the same area, and literally push the paint quite forcefully.
They have a favoured formula of paint, and a brusher addative.
Being about 10 degrees in the UK probably slows it up also.

Yes I remember that, the person put it on their diff housing.
I've never used it simply cause I cut rust away and if there's any flash rust on bare metal I use rust converter .

Not much on my car except flatting the guards back and where there was broken gelcoat at the edges I made a hybrid mix of filler and fiberfill, doing a mix gives better strength and can still be sanded back quite easily, also trimmed back the edge which meets the door.