Gaps look good Marty. Like the guard affixing method.
Should be a warning 'Nutserts are addictive'. Ever since I saw my first one, I find it hard to use anything else for those low stress type applications.
You ever tried putting in 6mm and over nutserts with one of those pissy tools Marty? Better get yourself an air nut riveter. I know if I ever had of realised how much I was going to use them I would have. I use the double arm type which is a good compromise?

It sounds like im missing out on some sort or Rivnut party.
I admit i've never been tempted, but  now could realise where it might be handy to have tacked a nut on th e bodywork somewhere, before i've painted.
 
Might have to find a link for a kit and join in the fun.
Good progress on the coupe now the guard is done.

Mine are either alloy or mild steel, good a kit that came in a two tier tackle box for about $30 some 20 odd years ago then I found out I had 2x adaptors of M6 and no M8 so it was actually cheaper to buy another kit (with less in it) than Faff about hunting for the adaptor. I did have 2x grips until one burst while doing the grill parts, so it joined the used rags in the bin !
Also at GMH while working there, we had a very similar air gun as Rinnai had however the holes were stamped hexagon for the nutserts, also known as Avdels in the industry

Yeah mate yeah, similar I think, only take aspirin personally...

Moving on to the drivers door which I knew was a bit "not right" with the gaps, well at the back it was so tight, I reckon a 0.007th Rolly paper wouldn't fit so it needed a bit of aggression to align it better. I did try to belt it with a clump hammer but no real effect to adjust them.
Ok so the door was way back, almost hitting the back panel and the front lower corner was sitting out about 3mm and needed to go in towards the body. The top hinge on the car was cut along it's length to the point I could hammer it forward easily but still strong which not only pushed it forwards but also out a little . The bottom hinge was cut off and at the pin holders and then chamfered to allow the weld to burn in good. So the bottom hinge allowed the door to sit in more but the door check rod also needed a hammer to let the door close without hitting. This is a pic of the top hinge after it was cut

Bottom hinge totally cut away and lined up in the new spot before welded


Bottom of the door all lined up and hinge welded back on

And the door gap is so much better along the rear panel edge


Such a long post but worth it!!

Hey Mark, door seals are all the wrong size thickness, ie generic. I have on occasions bent the weld seam inwards to release the squish spring effect, this is usually around the kick panel and dash. Another thing to try is pinch more holes so it lets the air out when the door is slammed, a few knife cuts or pin holes on the back edge sometimes helps.
Bailey channel is another thing that's annoying as the front part at the triangle window should be thinner but hard to find, if the usual stuff is used the window doesn't slide as easy as it should.

I not know much about Cossy stuff but thought the water pump be same as old pinno, maybe pulley height?
3 hundy$ is big money's..

Looking good.

Giving me bad thoughts of dragging my mk1 out and redoing the front fonerglass guards... think I've got enough on my plate first though.

Shaun

Back to the front again after 6yrs of grafting , once this guard is all straight and mounted to fit correct it'll be be primer putty and blocked as usual. Then it's a full flat back over the whole car to wiggle out any weird and missed bits then finally it's a topcoat in Area 51.

Mk1 has bonnet stops at the front on the bonnet slam panel tho MK2 has then on the above the headlights, in saying this I like clean mk1 look but since my bonnet is fglass and I'm not sure how thick I made it in that area so if I drill a hole and rivnut it, it might not have enough strength. Might just go without and move the side blocks forward more? I have always fitted MK2 side supports in mk1, they do require a little trimming on the insert mounting but work fine and are easier to find in good condition or new.
What I did to prep the bonnet pin supports is buy a pair of new Nissan patrol bonnet supports off eBay and lightly modify then add in the following pics.
These are the front supports for Nissan patrol

Finding longer screws of the same thread (M8)


Remove the rubber bush and simply swap it out


If I don't use them on this car, they will go on the MK2 van coming up next for resto.

Today I'll do more on the driver's front wing as I'm real keen now to get it in colour. I've also been searching for rubber seals, depending what I need which is everything, the place that's cheaper so far is Burton power UK at about $650 Inc shipping, Aus local is about $1100 and the door outer blades are not for escort, they are f100 cut back to suit so it's UK for the seal kit