Hi Mark thanks for the comment on the door card, just need to duplicate for the other side !
With the elec window winder I hope I can get the ratio to match the Escort throw. My plan is to use a spare door to get all the mountings and mods needed correct. I'll substitute the glass for a sheet of panel board to save weight and lessen any chance of the glass breaking. I was going to get the rear window lift motor from the Suzuki Swift as it's a simple central rail lift bar instead of the gantry I've got here .

I'm not sure about the Suzuki but most modern cars have a auto-reverse sensor in the window motor to stop people from getting stuck in them and injured, if this is the case with the Suzuki part you've got I don't think you'll need to worry about it breaking or bending things. Probably best to check it outside the car, power it up in a vice with a long lever attached to the window motor output and see if when you stop it turning by hand it reverses back a little bit.

If so it should also have a top and bottom "learn" position, this is usually done by putting the window all the way up and then once its in the top position hold the switch up until you hear a click from the motor, you also need to do that at the bottom position too. That controls the movement otherwise the motor would just break the glass/bend the rods/shear a gear as the motor keeps trying to turn when you keep the switch pressed. It also saved on end switches/wiring that the REALLY old systems used.

This was pretty consistent across most cars I worked on when I was still in the auto game. Standard procedure to reset the power windows after changing a battery. The only thing is if it uses a CAN signal to a body control module to store those positions then it wont work, but if it's all on board the motor you're laughing.

Ahh bugger, sounds like if it had the feature it would be controlled through a control module then. Looking at the part closer I think you're on the money, would mean a fair bit of stuffing around to get ratios right.  

Marty did you see the puller tool on Daves garage? It used copper pointed flags with a large hole in one end.
You load one into the zap gun and press it against the panel, and it spotwelds it in situ.
Do that 20 times, load the clamp puller over a bar through the holes, and tug away. It sounded ok, but Dave seemed to have many of the tags just drop off, not much area that they attach to. 
Your spot weld pins worked a treat.

I actually bought one a month back when he showed off the new tool. The price of his actual unit was nearly $300, but I bought the handheld gun that does the same thing for under $200 with 1000s of nails and the key looking pins with a group hook attachment plus washers for the puller , I think I posted a pic earlier on not long after I got it, works a treat 😁

Haha,
Did I mention the Revopoint lol

Texture finish panels, I'll pull a mold from these in a few days so if anyone wants a pr send a PM . They will be made in black gelcoat and fibreglass matting. I want to see how they come out beforehand

taste the Lemon Lime goodness.