This is the undercarriage of my blue van before it was reassembled. It's the only pic I've got with the rear shock mounts, hardly see them !

Hi Marty, I started cutting one out this afternoon actually.
After 3 days of further lockdown, I got the passenger floor mostly done, inner and outter sill, and the arch was next.
It takes so long , well it take me so long. As well as the spot welds, I did run some stitches along the edges of the  floor rails. Seam sealer will cover all of it anyhow.
 
After I started cutting though the outer skin, I wimped out, and thought the van needed more stiffening before cutting the inner tub, which was the only thick bit of metal. No wonder escort weigh nothing, the steel is so thin. At least I've learnt that its virtually impossible to butt weld any original panel skin, it's simply too thin. Overlapping panels and spot welding only.
So one step forward, 2 back.
 
No photos, as I wasnt happy with this weeks work.
 

Help needed please.. (yes again Fellas)
I've overthought how best to put the rear bubbles on, and watched a few youtubes again, and even reread my own thread and keep doing circles.
 
So, in short:do I tack the bubbles ontop of existing panel, or under it?
It sounds simple, but there are advantages/disadvantages to each, and it effects what happens where the existing panel skin meets the wheel tub.
 
The front guard was easy, the rear is doing my head in a little due to the inner skin.
 
If you used alloy arches, you pop rivet over the top, and the existing skin goes down to the tub and gets trimmed flush:in inner extension. Apparently rally boys like this as when the arch is thumped, you dont damaged your inner tub and shock mounts.
If you spotweld mount the bubble underneath the existing skin, you automatically have cut away the existing panel right up to the mount flange for the bubble, and extend the wheel tub out, as described in previous posts. So from inside the van, you'd be seeing into the larger tubbed bubble.
Gartrac vids show double rows of spotwelds, with the bubble behind the existing bodyskin. This lets you fair in easier I think, but once you cut up so high, you are committed to this method.
 
Pics would have helped, but I think you all may familiar enough.
I'll post some once its cut, following the group response.
And for prosperity.
 
Thanks again, and again.
 

thanks Marty.
I'll put my big boy pants on and just toughen up and do it.
I do have your number still, but wont get into it until the weekend again. Thanks for the offer though.
 
I've just about burned through my first roll of Mig wire (woo-hoo!) and went to the welding shop.
They game me some pointers on the machine setup again (looks like I need lower voltage 16v drop to 14, but more wirespeed). More likely to be my lack of technique also. I get a new switchable welding magnet to have a play with like below. We are meant to get smashed with rain this weekend, which will be good for shed time.
 
 

Hope you didn't get inner shield wire, that stuff does not work nice on thin metal. It was made for thick stuff mostly.
Argoshield is the way to go and use 0.6mm wire, 0.8mm gives of more heat and distorts metal.
Practice until the the weld sounds like fast cooking bacon , but don't do more than 5mm at any 1 time, spot weld and let things cool down... Patience is the key

Hehe, the gas for the welder is inert, non combustible, if you want the non rent bottles can be bought from Bunnings but will need the std wire and regulator.. Maybe next time your wire runs out give it a go..

Speaking of the weather, it was meant to be a bad one here in Adel, but it went below the city it's still in the hills from what I can see here. Meant to get rain for the next few days here but the weather man has not been right for years !!! When you see magpies sandbagging their nests you know it'll be torrential..

she's got hips.

Hey Deano good progress there, the van actually looks good bubbled up 👍. I'll see what I can salvage from your arch(s) , I know 1 side is not too bad but the other needs a complete arch.

Mark, as for seam sealer/drip check , I use sikaflex 227 , designed for auto panel sealing and has strong joint adhesion. eBay seller in Darwin has 3x tubes for about $55 , cheap considering Bunnings sell 1 for 28 bux
https://www.ebay.com.au/i...rid=705-154756-20017-0