The carpet (and new seatbelts) are now in. As customary, I forgot to take many photos, but it looks much nicer now.
Plus it also has that VOC off gassing smell:(sorry for dark pics).

 
There's wiring in now for the head unit speakers, reverse and dashcams. I'd like to make a factoryish centre console to take the head unit, that goes back to the gearlever.

For now, that will probably do for most of the interior, so the carpets were covered in dropsheets, and will be taped up once the brakes are bled.
Then back onto bodywork now its getting a little warmer. 
 
 

Progress on the van has been slow, so in a moral booster weekend:
-the passenger seat got cleaned up and fitted and doors back on just to make it look finished, plus I can see how wide the console can be

- the brake reservior  was filled up for the first time. Of course then I spent an hour chasing brake fluid leaks, including one bleed nipple that was missing in action. This caused a good puddle when I tested the peddle.In my defence, I think I took one bleeded out to remind me to get some shorter thread ones. But now it all sorted, no leaks, and just needs a good bleed.
- the wheels got a polish inside and out, and went back on too

then I tried starting the engine again, and playing with the distributor timing, with post it note data logging:

 
Im thinking about getting a cheap aliexpress air fuel guage kit and tempararily wiring it in just to help with setting the mixture at idle. They are around about $80, and I'd already put a bung in the exhaust for the o2 sensor.
Worth it or just follow the guides suggestions to screw all the way in and 2 turns out to start with?
 
 

Productive weekend I would think Deano, one job done is one step closer, even though these cars are fairly "simple" it's still a mammoth task to put everything back together and especially with non standard parts things just have a knock on effect.

The dash and seats look great, also one of the jobs I'm dreading is the brake lines. The smallest thing can cause a leak and to get them looking good is so time consuming.

Thanks for the suggestions.
The mix must be out a fair bit I reckon, as it didnt want to accelerate much either,so I look forward to round 2.
 
I really hate brake fluid for some reason, as much as gear oil, but getting the leaks fixed was satisfying in a weird way. I found undoing and making sure the tube entered the face properly at 90 degs was usually enough to get it to seal right. probably common sense of course. None needed to be redone so I call it a win.
 
The seats were just as they came, and will still be recovered. Im in 2 minds whether to fit new Recaro badges back on them, or get the RS logo embroided onto the vinyl before retrimming them.
I just couldnt bear to put them in manky as they were, and they are actually quite comfy.
 

It's good when comets line up with planets or what that saying is..
Maybe the first kit wasn't installed rightly or had a internal circuit failure?? Glad you can move to the next instalment knowing the engine runs fine , till you drive it for further tuning.

Awesome stuff! I had a very similar experience with my scorcher electronic ignition back in the day. It was a voltage supply issue though not a dud module. The 12v stuff can be very delicate, doesn't take much to fry something - did you do any welding with the module in the car? 

Marty scored some rally good Recaro seats and mentioned sewing.
Funnily I had the industrial sewing machine instide on the dining table, and have started finally playing with recovering my RS wheel. I wasnt going to post until its complete, but we are half way so far.
 
It was purchased averagely cheap (my own word), because it has more cracks in it than Norlane:
 
Plus a few chunks missing, but ideal for recovering.
 
The rubber had come away internally from the steel ring, so I sliced it open and pumped in some maring  Sikaflex. I tested the Sika to see how well it would bond to metal, happily every tool on the workbench that got inadvertently covered, stuck down well the next morning.
 
Packing tape seemed a good idea to hold it shut while drying, except it needs air to cure.... eejit.
Its now drying with cable ties instead.
 

 The cut in the top centre is for the leather join, which will be in a grey contrast stitch.
My sewing machine is setup to do sail sized stuff, and while it sews through thick material ok, it's a dog to sew slowly on.
So for now, the leather is cut, sewn to form a loop, and stitched both sides.
This is the pattern i'm planning to use, just simple, not the style with skipped every second:

Marty is right about the youtubes, ive watched a few, probably to my detriment. I cant really work to instructions, and sew on the fly, in my head. If you are a pattern making guy, search for this vid from Adam Smith. Total craftmanship, but it was about hours to do. This is the best example I have found on how to do an RS wheel
 
 

stencil? nah, that sounds like a pattern!
Either way, nope dont have one, sorry, it was live on the leather. You get one go.
 
I measured the circumference, sewed that, then shimmed it on and measured from there the width and spoke layout.
The ebay supplier sent enoguh for one wheel, and maybe the gear lever boot.
I had a quick check this morning, its glued ok and is now ready to sand down
 
Thats a good $3 cover, makes you wonder how they can do it for that. Looks like a snug fit too.
Agree about using glue, I think i might need to along the centreline so it locks down initially, but can still be stitched tight up the sides. 
 
So long as  the steering wheel does not fail a RWC for having a too loose grip.