Exhaust planning
Here are some pics.
Like you guys, when you've pretty much built the whole thing why stop now, plus the exhaust can come off and not damage anything else one bit.
 
After a chat with Deano (thanks again mate) I now have a start of a plan.
 
I'm sure I'll have some 3" SS bits left over. That's the big prob with buying online and wanting to complete a job in a decent time frame. Patience is not one of my better virtues.
 
I plan on using a couple of V Band joiners so the exhaust is pull apart(able), and will go for the stainless mesh type bellows as they seem to allow for more movement than the 'harmonica' shaped ones.
 
I have the 'around the pipe' clamps for the exhaust hangers on the other car and they have worked well (and allow for adjustment along the exhaust pipe).
 
Main area is over the diff housing as I have the watts bar to be mindful of. I suppose I'll just have to take my time and hug the body fairly well and heat wrap the whole unit.
 
So just fingers crossed on the muffler. Even though this is not a road car I have to be mindful of dB as this is getting to be a real thing nowadays.
 
You may have a view on this Marty as I was told today to weld with the normal steel mig wire/Argoshield light I use now. SS welds are brittle and prone to fatigue. I have heard this before but not sure if this is being a bit too extreme?
 
Any thoughts appreciated
 

that diff isn't going anywhere.
 
After plugging that exhaust mob online, my order for the last hanger bits still hasnt arrived.
I think they just forgot to key the order in, as 1 item was outa stock.
 
So much for paying for express post, and I was on a roll too!

Not sure about turbo quietning noise, my focus st3 has a 2.75in system and sounds like a rally Audi S2 . Years ago I owned a Cordia GSR turbo and got a exhaust built, it was also loud but one day the pipe broke near the gearstick, deafening till 3k revs then went quiet from there on. Boost was cushioning the sound waves or something, so you could run a short zorst but it won't go quiet till boost comes on..,!

It looks like they only can go on 1 way, from memory the bearing is rounded on the bottom and square in top as you see the radius to the thin shank part, long is curve, short is top , and if they don't match the thickness of bearing you should shave the long one down but not too much that the bearing will bind up when tight

If its ok, I wouldnt mine seeing some detailed photos of when you get it sorted out?
 
I remember years back trying to get the inserts and shock combination right (on mk2 corty roller tops) and having all sorts of issues. Maybe it was the uk/aus thing, i dont know, I was using what I had spare though....
 
Thanks
 
 

Hey I was thinking of you when I heard the earthquake on your holiday, how you was just shaken not stirred .!!

Yeah couldn't be better.. Fires, what fires ? I don't watch or listen to news shows but the misso does, that's how I knew of your problem. I'll look it up

The van has had some boring jobs done, nothing photoworthy anyhow.
Fuel lines are rerouted on the correct side of the chassis (thanks MArty for the pickup), I redid some new front brake copper lines as some clod routed them to the wrong spot on the chassis, tweeked the passenger seat mounts so we have 2 std Escort buckets in for now, and fitted a 2L air filter and a few bits. Unfortunately its not a blue Escort one, maybe Cortina or transit?  

 
The front struts are in and suspension connected, but I didn't take many photos sorry. So as requested above, in the end the supplied strut spacers were drilled out to suit the strut shaft diameter, and the longer spacer in the kit trimmed down at the parting line. It was relatively straight forward, just fiddly. 
 

Its been too hot to weld, but all of the bits are in for finishing the exhaust.
 
I've been thinking about what to use to line the inside of the van walls. I have the carpet lining material, but need something as the backing. Usually masonite or ply I guess is the normal route.
Bunnings have sheets of Coreflute, which you can get up to 5mm thick.
This seems lighter than timber, which appeals plus water resistent and at least stiff in 1 direction.
I reckon it would work ok being carpeted and then with the press clipped to the van sides, and use thin ply for the floor.
Any thoughts?
 
I found some 2 part stop putty that should be ok with the epoxy topcoats, and am hoping I can use that for the final touch ups around the crease lines and minor blemishes. The drivers side, bonnett and front, are pretty much rubbed back again, and is suprisingly close to needing either another high build or  the first topcoat.
 
Im not going to make the March deadline, totally dreaming!