Scalextrics !!!! 🤣🤣,

Yeah modern Motorsport is a wallet and cash register game now, unless on club level..

When I was a kid in the 70s there was a thing called the TV Guide for each week... It went missing one day and was found in the crisper drawer the following day, my sister owned up to that inconvenience lol

I think we all had scalextrics set, my school friend came from UK and they admitted to having 30+ mtrs of track and 20 odd cars ranging from mini Cooper to Escort mk1 bubble arch (Calibri) brown and a white one, JPS F1 etc. I remember we used up nearly all the track pieces one day in the rumpus room making spirals, wobbles, crossovers , the track was so long, we needed to double story the track and make a spiral to go up into the billiard table, then ramp back down. As the track had those dead spots, he had wire connectors to pull electricity from a good part into the dead part. We needed 2x transformers (1 each) to keep the speeds up, mine was from a train set which cranked more juice into the cars. My best car was a Audi quattro short S4 with 4wd (rubber band to the front axle) . Towards the end of the fun we began to do a demo derby and broke a few cars.
I sold me last of my set (10m) plus a bundle of cars for a few hundred bucks to a co-worker a few years back ... Sorry about the time travel back to my youth lol

it been a while, but there has been some thinking and a fair bit of procrastination.
A new gear lever is due in tomorrow, and uni's for the secondhand tailshaft, so that brings us closer to the front bit.
 
James who did the EV Cortina suggested its best to keep using a clutch and flywheel, especially when it comes to older gearboxes, so I need to track down a flywheel and then get an uprated clutch. Given thats the case, do I go 1600 or 2L? Is a 2L clutch likely to better handle the higher torque than a 1600? I dont know physically if the are different in size. Having a flywheel is actually counter productive in an EV, so a lightened flywheel would be the best compromise, even with the ring gear removed. Is a 1600 lighter?
 
Now how to mate the motor drive (keyed shaft) to the flywheel?
I was thinking if you got an old crankshaft and machined off the drive end, and had a keyway broached into that, it would give you the correct flywheel mating face, and the rest of the clutch setup would be conventional?
Will post a mudmap for comments.
 
 
 
 
 

Deano, what you could do is forget about Kent or pinto clutches/flywheels and go with zetec 2.0 fly/clutch, these can handle 180-200bhp as standard, compared to pintos 130bhp. The zetec clutch is the same spline as escort. In USA there's alloy flywheels which weigh in at 9lbs . Or go a duratec ally flywheel and clutch, then get the spline swapped for Escort. Also is a keyway going to be strong enough to take the torque of batteries and be reliable . A machinist should be easily able to mill up a flywheel boss mounting .
Just remember that a zetec does not have equal spaces between flywheel bolts, this is cause the crank angle pickups are on the flywheel and can't be installed out of sequence, but duratec does have equal spaces between fly bolts

Yeah, 1 like that, even a paddle clutch can be better depending on torque the ev puts out. The stock flywheels are heavy tho which is why I suggested an alloy one from Spec or Fidanza to reduce rotating mass.
Nice shifter too 👍

Only thing to worry about is causing the roof to wobble where you've welded.. either butt weld or step it using a joddler with weld thru primer.
I'm still doing stuff to Adams van, should be nearing completed in a few weeks, and I'm giving my 3dr Focus a big birthday with new wheels, bigger brakes and other go fast stuff I've learnt from my other Focus. Back to the coup soon tho

buoyed by my apparent improvements in welding skill, i decided to have another crack at the drivers side window panelling.
These were one of the first jobs I'd had a crack at while learning, and on this side I kept blowing through.  In the end, I got so disheartened by it no matter how I tried, I needed to cover it over with cardboard for a few months to avoid seeing the failures.
So take 2:



 
 In the end, it wasn't the welder settings, it was all down to technique. I think it was Blue that suggested how close I was holding the gun, and also the angle. This and practice, practice meant that now about 90% of the time I could redo a blowthough and add material, rather than blow it out worse. Still not a welder, but it was a good rainy day in the garage.
Again some filler, and a good sand should see a nice curve hopefully.
 
Oh yeah, I almost set fire to the garage too. I usually wax and grease remove right before welding. I did this on the roof vent delete, but absentmindedly left the chux cloth right next to the patch. Grabbed the torch, lets god. First  dab with the gun and woof! total flames from the chux, about 1/2 foot high. I was on a ladder, going ****, ****. The nearby extinguisher was on the bench, so I jumped down and grabbed it. By this stage, the chux still looked impressive, but if I shot it with the extinguisher, it was sure to blow off the room and set something else alight.
 
I know, bat it out with your glove idiot. Yes ok, . Left welding glove did a bit, but flames still too large. Use both hands.
Unfortunately rh gove  was a mechanics glove. It did it, but the palm melted. Still the fire was out, just a bit of  ouch peeling of the melted glove... Another one not to tell the boss about. What happens in the garage as they say.