Mike recently put longer rears in mine, he uses standard mitsubishi evo studs which are 49mm but might be a bit short for your liking. I cant have mine too long as they are closed ended lug nuts.

Using this logic you could then look at extended evo studs which from this website and a quick google translate give a kurl diameter of 14.3mm.

https://arp-bolts.com/kit...detail.php?RecordID=77

The sleeve on grp4 studs is about 20mm long and then the thread of another 25-30mm so your baby escort studs won't fair very well !. Grp4 studs were used by all the rally cars in the day, Vauxhall, Datsun, Talbot, Opel etc .

What colour are you getting the MLs in ?

the slowest thread in history now resumes.
In good news, 4 Compomotive MLs arrived by TNT:What a wrought that was. Covid limitations meaning that less planes are flying so there was no 'economy air', it had to be 'express air'. Fine no drama, except they were still 3 weeks to get here, which was 2 weeks overdue, despite being changed the express surcharge. 
Things of beauty! Now just need to hunt down Toyo's to fit
 

Noooo, yours is not the longest build thread in history..... Paul Dunstan has that title 😂, sorry Paul had to !!

They wheels look rinsing , shame the poxy postage took your money.
You will need a limslip diff for those fats, while the centre is apart, do it.. what's another $750 to the build aye 😁

Wow the wheels look the bomb Deano, I understand the frustration with postage but gotta say it was worth it in the end.
Anyone had any dealings with ATB diffs? I like the principle but hear mixed opinions. 

LSD: what and throw away all I have invested so far: 10 hours of bashing, swearing, grinding etc?
Maybe once its one the road, thats when I see whats sub standard, and revisit round 2.
Anyhow, I got the damn inner pinion bearing off after grinding and brashing, and repressed a new one in.
So the diff head is all cleaned and reassembled, ready to start to fine tune. Before I can get to that point exactly, the pinion still seems too much float between the bearings. A new crush tube was fitted, but I suspect the outer bearing is still not pressed home fully.
Its difficult as the outer bearing looks to get fitted in situ.
So while the crownwheel and pinion appear to mesh nice, and smooth enough to think its in the ballpark, I can still pull the pinion up and down maybe a mm or 2.
I'm probably just going to take it in now to the local diff guy to finish setting the preload etc, but Im wondering if its just that the inner and outer bearing arent pulled together enough, against the crush tube?.It doesnt seem possible that you would do the pinion nut increasing tighter to take this slack up, but is that all I might need to do?
It has been good learning, and it would be a bit dissappointing to hand it over and not finish the job.Logic would say im better off doing extra hours at work, and pay an expert, but wheres the fun in that?
 

Ha, you want to see my old crush tube!I used it to protect the pinion nut thread while in the vice, no amount of massaging is going to get that looking nice every again.
I found an old turbo forum thread which gives good info, and a couple of youtubes, so swatting up now.
And there's such a thing as a "bearing splitter" for around $50, to help get behind the axle bearings to press them off.
 
Who would have thought, and yes I have been living under a rock for the past 50 years. :)

I impressed the kids on the weekend.
Who needs protein powder when old school welly will do?
That ended Mondays diff rebuild, was trying to hold the pinion flange end good and tight ready to collapse the spacer.
I think an old school dawn engineers vice might be better than the chinese import jobs like the above, but need something in a hurry. Having the swivel base was good when welding though.
 
Halfshafts come back tomorrow with new bearings pressed in.