I just had a quick look over the comments about the stalling problem. Bee Vee is correct, its definitely an electrical ignition issue. I would also be strongly advising to change condenser, points, cap and rotor. When setting your timing, set tdc #1 firing, no static advance on the dizzy initially to get it started and running, then set your correct dwell angle, once running smooth, advance timing approx 6-8 degrees with the vacuum advance disconnected. Once set, connect vacuum advance hose back up to dizzy again. Hope this helps

Maybe he is still stalled Beeve.
 
You may have to race over and test his condensor for him
 
 

BEE VEE

900dukess
Maybe he is still stalled Beeve.
 
You may have to race over and test his condensor for him
 
 

iF ANYONE KNOWS HOW TO CONTACT HIM, maybe they should ring or go over see if he's ok, and not hung himself over the Capri problem !  There must be a reason why he hasnt written here in 3 weeks.
 
 

 lol  not quite hung myself  but thought about pushing it off the cliff...
 
I was just busy with family stuff  so haven't got around to swapping carb to holley just to check or even swap to points
 
took it out the other week to all british day was ok ..  I have it now at the point where I know when it will stall  I can drive it for 1/2 to 1 hr no probs   but as soon as I turn it off let it rest about 1/2 hr, I go back in it to go drive again about 5 -10 min it will stall at lights or if I come to a complete stop or corner not using any gas ..  it might stall once or twice in the next 5 -10 min depending how many lights I stop at . it will then come good again and drive for another hr without any issue  so its still bothering me and not to sure on whats causing it ..  ive also notice sometimes when its stalls it starts up straight away, other times it takes a bit of time to restart it...  so I have ordered a new coil just to try and points as well see what happens …  when it stalls it just cuts right out  cood be a loose wire somewhere just one of those little messed up things that you have to try and swap out half the bits to find out what it is

Bud come over and will loan you two Carbs and a dizzy for as long as it takes for you to lose this frustration ( I know what it's like) I'm thinking Carby but your electric dizzy is not something I'm Familiar with. I've got a motor with Ice Dizzy off JR which is something special you can borrow that too but needs to come back.

well let me give you a update ...
its still doing it and at times it pisses me off badly..
 
had some free time, I changed out the coil, still the same, I changed from electronic to points still does it, I changed the carby to a holley and it still died out , the problem seem to be when it gets half way in temp , im starting to think its fuel evaporating , because of heat , the radiator seems to be maybe clogged as it wasn't  getting to the halfway mark before..  took t for a spin last night and it got to half way started stalling and  misfiring , was running like crap..  either the head gasket is on is on its way out manifold leak or just heat issue's other than that I can only think it might be the ballst resitor wire in the loom …  read a post from the uk some person having same issues replaced his radiator and it seem to solve it ..  so im at a loss...   

Wiggy333
Did you change inlet manifold for the holley? And still doing it? You've driven through winter with same probs so fuel vaporisation at half temp sounds unlikely. Check timing and plugs but sounds like a leak either inlet manifold or cracked head.

yeah but wasn't that bad in winter as it is now , I was thinking manifold leak head crack but it doesn't rise or drop in idle unless it stalls … I have noticed even in the winter times that it was getting up to half way as it does now , so that's what has me thinking manifold or  heat soak as when its under half way and running cool it doesn't do it.. only when it gets about half way in temp , when it was running fine it would get no where near half way just sat on the blue or a touch over it …  im going to do a full flush to the whole system and replace radiator as I can see mine looks a little block in some of those cores ..  im buying this stuff this week and giving it a good flush before I replace radiator .. are the v6 heads know for hairline cracks ????
https://www.ebay.com.au/i...c15:g:6vAAAOSwYsBbx9dY

gtv6capri
wow thats expensive flush.  Just take the radiator out and drop it into a Natrad or local repair shop for a dunk in the tank and a pressure flush, also make sure you have a thermostat fitted

I rag natrad and that quoted me 800 + for a recore so I would imagine that a dunk and clean would cast about half that...   a new 2-3 core would cost 250 in alloy..  it is expensive rad cleaner but seem to be th best one on the market that works ,  it flushes the block and rad at the same time , no real use in doing a rad change unless I try remove as much scale out of the block as well so I don't end up with another block rad ..  other than that I was going to pull the heads off to convert to unleaded valve seats this yr and new valve stem seals as well , so ill just have a good think on when or what stage to do it..
 
I took the capri out yesterday just local drive and kept a eye on the temp didn't get to half way as it was bit cooler yesterday but had thermos fan on , it didn't stall at all .. but I know if it reached half way it would of stalled and ran like crap , missing and stalling . its weird alright as I remember when I put new head gaskets on one looked dodgy I put them on and 4 months later head gasket blew and in the spot I thought was dodgy payen gasket.  it heated up way over half lucky I was only 2 min from home but the car didn't carry on like it is now at half way .. it stalled few times when it was blown in the 2 min to get home ..  the only thing I can think is just maybe the temp switch being as they are is showing less than what it really is and at half way its actually running very hot , but I have no way coming out of over flow tube .. so I think I try the flush and get new alloy rad as I can find any that resemble oem one