Temperature Sender V6

Hi John,
The correct sender unit for the Essex has a white ring around the top. I have just replaced mine with a new one purchased from Burtons. The gauge has always read just out of the blue at normal operating temps, even with the old sender that eventually died. The temp comes up to around one third to a half if I leave it idling for any length of time, but soon comes down again once moving. I am using an electric fan. I've never fitted a proper calibrated temp gauge to see what the actual reading is but most people I've spoken to say just out of the blue is normal.
 

I’ve been to red. Radiator cap blown off ( or I forgot to install it right) 40 minute drive and 40 degreeC heat. Don’t recommend it on an expensive Essex. Mine sits at a quarter but I’m sure it’s running to hot although it runs beautifully.

Both mine sit at a bit out of the blue, about 1/4, but when I get stuck in traffic on a hot day it becomes a race between the oil pressure gauge and the temp gauge to see which one can reach the worst extreme first, red temp or super low oil pressure, while the volts gauge slowly retreats to the middle.  These things don't like standing still for too long.

We have the same problem. Slight coolant loss from my previous posts Bernie. Mine always shows a quarter when hot. Never varies even at 40degrees. Always shows same oil pressure at idle. After pulling it out and checking every bearing surface I know it’s sweet. At best now all I can do is a head crack test but even if I found the crack it won’t affect the rest of the motor.

Johnscapris
Timmo,
 
Thanks much appreciated.
I have tested many gauges using an original brand new Ford sender in a controlled environment, ie a pot of water with controlled heating and 2 thermometers.  The needle sits where Timmo states out of the blue just less than a quarter (thermometer 82C), when water temp is 100C  {212F} (ie prior to engine dying) the needle is showing almost half.
However, no driver concern at this stage, pedal to the metal, just shows how tough these Ford essex engines are as the needle is no where near the red.  What water coolant temp will tempt the needle to approach then enter the red?
 
Regards
John

Something/s very wrong here. If you know for sure that your water is at 100C, then your guage showing only half is unacceptable. Tests need to be done to eveluate where the problem/s is/are.
 
Water at sea level and open to atmosphere boils at approx 100 deg C . The 13 lb pressure from a tested Cap will only increase the boiling point by half a degree, but its main claim to fame is that to a certain level, it helps a little to keep the water from expanding and just flowing past an unpressurised cap, which worsens the situation as air replaces the lost hot water and air cannot dissipate heat like water, and so greater overheating ensues.
 
Even tho I'm happy with my "lot", I intend to install a Recovery Cap and Expansion Tank once i solder my neck which has a slight leak, which is not acceptable.
 
My AP5 Valiant Regal has had 50% Castrol AF/AB Coolant and a Recovery System for the last 30 years and has not used one drop of Coolant in all that time, other than being changed every 10 years ! Nor has the engine ever had ANY repair whatsoever since 1965 when our family purchased it new! Oil and filter was/is changed every 1000 mile from new.................and like my Capri; NO FAN at all.
 
I hope I havent offended anyone with my Valiant story. If so, harden up princess !
 
 
 
 
 

John, I have a dumb ass question... I have no electrical aptitude at all....
If you could find a perfect match sender unit for the gauge (20 ohms @ 82 degrees) should the gauge then read exactly in the middle, and into the red at 100 degree (10 ohms @ 100 degrees)? assuming my dash gauge was ok
M