OK, time to tackle to "A" pillar rust.

Decided the best way is to remove the gutter and replace the rusty sections and then re-attach the gutter. Had previously had a go at plug welding the holes from the front but proved unsatisfactory.



More to follow as I progress - this is the removed gutter section from the "A" pillar door opening. Clearly shows the major rusty sections.

quote:

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Originally posted by PaDDy555

what brand/type of rims are these??

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Simmons V4.

Hi JDS.

Thanks - yes they're Simmons V4 which I've altered to my preferred width (15x7 front, 15x7.5 rear) after obtaining, selling and swapping many rim sections etc

Struts are from a car I obtained and sold on. I think they're standard Mk2 2.0L struts with the lower spring seat removed. A threaded section of water pipe was then welded onto the tube and a threaded "nipple" added to the spring seat. This has produced a rather crude adjustable spring platform. It also has a locking nut below the spring seat. It aint pretty but I guess it does it's job.

Also has Bilstein inserts.

Brakes are explained earlier in the thread.

Trying to get stuck into the remaining rust repair to ensure it's ready for paint when the time comes

I needed to remove the under side section of the "A" pillar as there were rust holes all the way down which required the drip channel to be removed in the previous photos.

Section removed - difficult to see but holes are visible in the centre-line of the panel.



Where the rusty section was removed.



This then required a replacement section to be cut to size and grafted in.



Unfortunately time got away and I was unable to begin welding - stay tuned I may be best to mount the door to ensure correct alignmant etc.

Hi Ash

Posted similar response in your other post. You need all the R31 hardware to make it simpler.

Look here for a Torana conversion (same principles)

http://www.gmh-Torana.com.au/forums/index.php?showtopic=30223

Had a bit of time today.

Removed the other original engine mount from the Xmember to allow the fit up of my new mounts below. I will box them with the sections shown infront and obviously the engine side of the mounts are rotated 180 degrees to hold the bush tubes in place for the images. I will use 90 degree angle to replicate the original mounting flanges to the chassis rails.





Also picked up my sections to fabricate my bias pedal box



I honestly believe I have an illness as I'm obsessed with profile cutting [:x)] For the price it's a no brainer compared to cutting by hand!

Hi Dave

Yes, it will add a little extra to track width - the diff between the rotor hat thickness and the drum brake (I doubt it's >5mm though).

I also looked at the original R31 mounting plates but I found they were not ideal - I found my adapters easier as I could design them to fit correctly.

I will be using longer studs.

Adapters V2

Hey Paul nice work on the x/member, just make sure you have plenty of clearance for the steering knuckle on the driver side. Keep up the good work