Ash & Paul, when I ordered my Ralloy radiator earlier this year I was quizzed did I have the cutout in the bottom... so all good there.
I went for a push fan and it sits perfectly in front, my 3 core 'original' radiator had a gap in front af about 20mm as well, I just infilled it with a small strip of alloy which now matches the alloy radiator as well

A pull fan is more efficient if you have the space. It doesnt restrict or interupt airflow when the vehicle is at speed until after the air has been through the core

Figured out the thermostat housing to have a simple hose connection back to the radiator. A Kent X-flow housing fits the Raceline water rail and has the outlet orientated to suit my application

Burtons also have a nice billet alloy housing which might replace this one now I know it fits.

Had some bits return from the profile cutters so thought I'd make a start on my bias pedal box.

On some brake pedals I have looked at I have not been 100% happy with the way the extension piece is added to hold the bias bar tube. More often than not the additional sections are just butt welded onto the end of the pedal or at the very best they're lap welded. With only 10mm (max) between the pivot piont (hole) and the end of the pedal does not leave a great deal of "meat" to get a decent weld - and strength.

My solution is to place sections inside the pedal which also pick up the pivot point of the pedal. It has been cut as too allow the pedal pivot bush to fit unaltered.



The position of this insert is shown below although it has been placed on the outside for display. It will link the pivot point and the ballance bar tube for additional strength.



Both sections in their correct placement. The whole top of the pedal will be "boxed" from the top of the original pedal, over the top of the ballance tube and down the back of the pedal to the pivot position.

Well pedal is fully welded and just needs a little cleaning up. I laso need to ream out the ballance tube to the required 1.002 inches as it has shrunk during the process. This was mentioned in the documentation with the bias bar so it was expected.

Pedal extensions welded into place picking up the pivot point.





Fully welded - welds may need a few high spot knocked off with the flapper disc prior to powder coating



I'm just waiting for the side sections of my pedal box to be re-cut (they were the incorrect drawing!) and I'll get on with the actual pedal box construction.

Hi Shea.

Thanks mate - although your SR20 will be going before my Zetec will [:I]

Completed the brake pedal this morning - 1" reamer did the trick. Tilton recommends 1.002" diameter hole as the spherical bearing is 1.000" in diameter. I was going to ream it to 1" and then use a brake cylinder hone to get the extra clearance. Turns out it's just fine after using the reamer.



Dark spot is the original surface - the reamer has removed the material to make the hole round again.



Completed pedal with ballance bar installed.

If you're referring to the horizontal baffle below the inlet then yes. I'm assuming this is to have the incoming hot coolant more evenly distributed across the core. I was worried about this as the Zetec in and out are on the same side - but see it's sorted.

I wonder if all their rads have this?