71 V6 capri wiring

Hi, this is my first post and first ford project as I have a couple of toranas (please don't hold that against me).
 
I have just acquired a 71 V6 GT Capri, bought as a project that was started 18 years ago. Body was in bare metal with no rust when we inspected, trim had already been purchased. 2x engines and 2x gearboxes along with most parts to reassemble.
 
I have had the body painted already in the original ultra white, at first I was unsure as the tag had been lost but was found amongst the parts.
I am now at the stage of placing the wiring in my car but my harness's are shot inc. connectors.
 
Is there anywhere in Australia that remakes a new harness?
Are the Aussie harness's the same as the UK harness's?
How different is the 1600 harness to the 3000 harness?
 
 
Thanks, Jason

Thanks Spud15.
What do you mean by facelift? Mk1 to Mk2?
Forgive me as I learning more about these car each day. Totally different to the toranas I am used to.

Jason

Keep an eye out at trademe.co.nz to - (if u struggle to get one) they (New Zealand) had a lot of pre facelift capris - like ours

the Aussie V6 loom has alternator feed to ignition switch (RHS of engine bay thru firewall),  across interior, then out the firewall to battery at front LHS.
The Aussie 4cyl loom does not have RHS feed to ignition switch.
 
I have intimate knowledge here.  I painstakingly fixed a loom for 6 dial wiring, only to discover it had come from a 4cyl XL, not V6. Useless to me.
 
The wiring diagram for the V6 shows a alternator feed across front of car to battery, but 2 out of 2 examples I had did not have this feed.
 
That said , I'm sure a decent (old) electrician could sort something out for you.
 
whooligan makes a valid point.  Wiring will melt together before you smell it .... or see the flames.  
Then it is too late.
 
Ever tried to separate a melted harness?

 'headlight relay kit',
 
I got mine from CapriClinic about 5 years ago. The owner has now ceased business AFAIK.
Consisted of some relays, battery feed and earthing plate to bypass  high current draw power feed from light switch (became a signal only). Buttoned in at fuse box.  No wiring was hurt in the making of this bypass arrangement.  Easily reversible.

pm sent

I remember rebuilding a loom back twenty years ago but the later looms had different color wiring so it made it harder meshing two together. Put it in and everything worked first time. All you do is undo the tape and follow along with new tape. Find a problem fix it and then retape. I solder all my joins and learning to use electrical tape to do a good job is easy. Unravel a bit then retape until you have a problem if at all. Mum was an electrical engineer for the navy so I learnt from her.

Thanks deano, I've never been fond of heat shrink as you need to take off connections to get it on but once you do its the ants pants. Ive also been using brush on electrical tape which is like a glue that brush on and its strong. Thing with redoing a loom is you need to direct the cables where you want them to go so a bit of a figure of eight around the section of wires heads them where they should go and just as original would be. you don't want variation otherwise buy the time you go to plug in you could be short or stretching the loom which is NOT recommended. Bad connections create heat which creates fires and quickly. If you find a bad section you can cut just that bit out and fix or alternatively replace the whole wire and blend it in as you unravel then retape. Its really that easy but never just remove the outside tape and start from scratch unless you have a photographic memory (which I don't). I also will but have not yet buy a headlight relay for all my cars but i would think you could buy the parts cheaply at super cheap and do it yourself. I will probably buy one of ebay which is sold there at the moment and copy it for the rest of my cars as already lost one indicator stalk as someone wired up the spotlights through the high beam switch and it melted the whole thing. On top of that always as whools suggested have a fire extinguisher at arms reach they are less than $20 bucks and could save your car, your life or help out someone else in trouble and are the best insurance a classic car can have.