Chuff
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Re: Clutch adjustment and cable locating rubber
2015/09/14 10:25:55
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I'm not a Capri man, I'm an Escort man, but based on the symptoms you are describing, I would put it down to 2 possible scenarios, one of which has already been discussed, that being a bent clutch fork causing the problems described. The other scenario relates to the pivot point end of the clutch fork, the opposite end to where the clutch cable connects. In an escort, I believe with Pinto motors and not Kent, there is a steel block located between the fork and the bell housing in order to correctly place the thrust bearing assembly in position relative to the fingers on the pressure plate, as well as insuring correct geometry in the clutch fork movement and also places cable adjustment within a usable range as designed from factory, meaning the adjusting nuts should sit somewhere close to the middle position, and not over extended, leaving you with little room for adjustment. If this block between the fork and bell housing is missing then you end up with the symptoms you describe. Along with the steel block, a special bolt is also used in order to hold the clutch fork and block assembly in place. Just a thought. It may not apply to your Capri. Chuff
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hotboostgt
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Re: Clutch adjustment and cable locating rubber
2015/09/14 12:39:28
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Nope no head looks factory pin. Where the pivot fork bolts to bell housing has been machined square and a correct height spacer made to give the right depth back in the bell housing. All good suggestions guys but John and myself have done all the obvious ones. That's why this post has been dug up.. Its all new , machined or modified new.Tried with different throw fork same problem. I tell ya its not making sense. Keep thinking guys cheers
post edited by hotboostgt - 2015/09/14 12:52:19
The only thing that beats HORSEPOWER is TORQUE. You can sleep in your car but u cant race your house. 1972 V6 DELETE
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Wiggy333
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Re: Clutch adjustment and cable locating rubber
2015/09/14 15:41:57
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Sorry to chirp in guys but from the start inside the car you have full travel of the clutch pedal? And in the box your getting full travel negating a couple of mm deflection if bent but you are saying your missing 70mm of travel if that's correct it must be the wrong clutch cable not giving you your adjustment. Try applying the clutch pedal and tell us how much movement you get on the other side of the cable as that is your travel. Then work out how much travel your fork needs to work ( not much) and make sure you have the tolerance to make it work. I reckon it's a cable issue not allowing the adjustment. Also I didn't know of a difference in flywheels between the Dport and oval port I will need to check on that.
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hotboostgt
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Re: Clutch adjustment and cable locating rubber
2015/09/14 16:48:53
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Cable new factory Ford.There is heaps of thread on both side of bell housing.It doesn't matter if cable tight or loose no different . We are testing less gearbox just the bell housing thowout etc. One person in car and with a torch some underneath looking thru arm to tell exactly when clutch us gripping . 2" from the floor it grips. FYI . 6bolt holes line the 3 studs 1.3mm difference. Trust me. Argued with exeedy over it they don't care because capri clutches aren't a big seller.So went to where I bought an exeedy from with my dport flywheel and my old competition clutch slammed on his desk and said now do you believe me! He said do u have ur credit card handy for refund ..geez thanks
post edited by hotboostgt - 2015/09/14 16:56:26
The only thing that beats HORSEPOWER is TORQUE. You can sleep in your car but u cant race your house. 1972 V6 DELETE
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Chuff
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Re: Clutch adjustment and cable locating rubber
2015/09/14 17:33:16
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Are you saying that the clutch starts to disengage when you have the pedal only 2" from the floor, thereby only giving you 2" of travel? If so, grab the clutch cable outer on the engine side where the cable thread goes through the bell housing and pull the cable outer as far as you can towards the front of the car until it stops. As you do this the clutch pedal in the car will lift but that is what you want, and there will be resistance as there should be a spring between the clutch pedal & pedal box. Once you have pulled the cable all the way, are you able to position the 2 nuts for adjustment and leave a gap of around 2-3 mm between the nut and bell housing? If so, then lock them in place and try your pedal travel. If you can't lock the nuts as you've run out of thread on the end of the cable, then you must have the wrong cable, as the outer is too short. Similar scenario occurs if you smash & remove the plastic/rubber insulator on the cable where it goes through the firewall. Cable outer length becomes shorter and limits adjustment. I don't see how it can be anything else.
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hotboostgt
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Re: Clutch adjustment and cable locating rubber
2015/09/14 18:41:37
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Yep 2" from the floor. Cable new genuine mk1 v6 not a cheap eBay one. Nothing wrong with cable.Yep pedal in car is hard up against pin which is level with brake pedal. I don't know why mine I sent higher but it is so I'll live with it . Going try put small spacers between flywheel and pressure plate .That shall bring pedal grip up . Fingers crossed
The only thing that beats HORSEPOWER is TORQUE. You can sleep in your car but u cant race your house. 1972 V6 DELETE
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gtv6capri
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Re: Clutch adjustment and cable locating rubber
2015/09/14 21:00:20
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Capri The car I always promised myself
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hotboostgt
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Re: Clutch adjustment and cable locating rubber
2015/09/14 21:13:23
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No John it was a NOS in a ford bag not from eBay at all.Let's say I sourced it locally .Not the cable guys .. Pressure plate is NOT Capri but it will work with small spacers to move the grabbing point up higher. I'll keep everyone's updated. To the guys running similar problem might have a solution. Cheers for input guys
The only thing that beats HORSEPOWER is TORQUE. You can sleep in your car but u cant race your house. 1972 V6 DELETE
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BEE VEE
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Re: Clutch adjustment and cable locating rubber
2016/09/30 13:11:36
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Strange how this Clutch Saga is prevalent !..........When I found my Capri some 4 years ago, I drove it back to Mornington from Ballarat and it drove like a dream (AFTER SITTING in shed FOR 15 YEARS IYDMU!!!!).......no Clutch problems at all ! Pulled Eng & GB out , overhauled engine, and next item was to replace all Gaskets and Seals on a very leaky box thanks to some yo-yo putting in Selector Seals that were 100% useless and had a 1mm gap for oil to slush out !!!........they weren't worn out; just wrong as proven by eye/calipers and part number still on them !......lucky I filled Box b4 leaving Ballarat, and she lost 1/4 of fill by the time I travelled the 200km back to home, with no damage.......... .........not satisfied with leaving well enough alone, I had to self-criticize the amount of "slop" in the Primary Input Shaft which wasnt due to worn bearings. So I "spaced" up the gap between the Front Cover/Thrust Support and the Main Fr Brg Circlip just so there was 90% of "slop" removed...............BIG MISTAKE !...........now cant select ANY gears unless I double de-clutch which I havent done for many decades.............it wasn't pretty ! :-( ..........back in the shed till I have time to r&r GB and remove offending spacers !.........BUGGER !
"GOOD BETTER BEST: NEVER LET IT REST: UNTIL YOUR GOOD IS BETTER, AND YOUR BETTER, BEST" ( Furphy WW1 HORSE-DRAWN water-tank end-plates)
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BEE VEE
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Re: Clutch adjustment and cable locating rubber
2016/10/01 23:59:00
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Hey Guys............I had a weird problem like this a few years ago on an old 142 Volvo of all cars.............turned out to be a metal-fatigued and flexing throwout arm................what a headache that was ! ..............A CASE IN POINT TO CHECK EVERY SINGLE ITEM IN THE CHAIN
"GOOD BETTER BEST: NEVER LET IT REST: UNTIL YOUR GOOD IS BETTER, AND YOUR BETTER, BEST" ( Furphy WW1 HORSE-DRAWN water-tank end-plates)
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