Capri Headlight Wiring Help Urgent

3000E is going in for RWC, I have parkers, high beam, but no main beam.  I have no power at the fusebox from the blue/red wire-which powers main beam, the other 2 have power.  I have a part melted headlight switch loom plug.  Seems something is amiss and was prior to my ownership.  The wiring diagram from Mr Haynes is so small its like a Soviet microdot from the 60's.  OK so what is the sequence of events for the main beam and why would the loom plug have melted?  WHos got a good fix?  I might just have to get an auto elec in but need this done chop chop as Wed AM its front and centre at the RWC man and I don't want to be embarassed, all assistance appreciated 

Hope the following helps.....................
 
Not knowing your car model intimately, or its year, I'll give you the Generic Low-down..................Like most early cars, esp English cars using "Prince of Darkness"equipment, aka Lucas, they rarely , if at all, used "relays". Consequently the whole circuit took the whole load till the weakest part failed. In your case, the headlamp switch has over-heated* and started to melt causing warpage and/or point burn-out in the HL sw, and so no high beam.
 
You'll need a new Headlight switch for starters, but check your globes and change them if they're anything but 60w/55w........ as often owners will put in higher wattage globes looking for better illumination (in reality doesn't improve much as the old wires and old connections can't handle the extra load)........If you want brighter lights and higher wattage globes, you MUST fit a relay for Low Beam plus a relay for High Beam, and ALWAYS have Fuses protecting ALL circuits, which is another cheap move by car makers, to leave so many circuits un protected and Fuse-less. This is a fire or accident waiting to happen. Try and avoid used HL switch; always new where poss.
Also check as many connections as possible. All would be ideal. Loose and semi-loose connections are the enemy of a good circuit. Pull them apart and clean them thoroughly with spray contact cleaner. Make sure ALL insulation of wires and terminals is sound.
 
Let me know how you go.
Bernie 

I too have seen the soldered wire to pin trick.  Its very annoying if you have to dismantle later on.
A better quick fix is to cut off the wiring loom plug(its cactus any way) and fit standard insulated bayonet connectors. Thats right even tho they are meant to push on to a flat bayonet style connection  you will find that one side presses snugly over the pin. The only permanent cure tho is the fitting of relays as BV said. Then the switch only has very low load.
Cheers,..ron.

Got them, thanks Terry.  The fun begins, heres that relay I mentioned earlier http://s142.photobucket.com/user/gtv6capri/media/3000E%20Restoration/P3310553.jpg.html?sort=6&o=88#/user/gtv6capri/media/3000E%20Restoration/P3310553.jpg.html?sort=6&o=88&_suid=138904592760006774067519932352

Great detective work on that one John! Don't forget that the RS3100 needs to be ready for Small Ford Sunday to help us celebrate the 40th anniversary of the marque! Perhaps the 3000E for Fed Square on Australia day? Cheers, Terry

As a matter of interest, On my white Capri (now sold) I put high powered globes in it and put the relay inside the grill just to the right, on the battery side. This made the wire from the battery to the lights very short which I would presume to be better - I'm certainly no expert on auto electric, but I had it like this for years trouble free with very bright lights..
 
Paul

Mmmmm food for thought I'll jump onto Kevs site and have a little look, makes perfect sense to have a relay especially if you don't have to cut and shut wiring.  The globes in it are standard H4 60/55 regulars, I don't plan on night driving....
 

Can't seem to get the Capri Clinic site to load, I get the old fire page from years ago, but anything to do with the parts crashes