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Removing Booster Mk1 (Bias Box?)

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Cano29
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2013/10/31 18:39:17 (permalink)
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Removing Booster Mk1 (Bias Box?)

Hi guys,
 
Thinking about getting rid of the booster for a bit more space and cleaner engine bay. I've read up on a few of the old forums and see that a lot of people have had luck with the datsun MC's? 
 
I'm thinking about buying new calipers as the original ones aren't in too good shape. Would M16's on the front, vented/slotted discs, maybe braided lines and standard rear drums be good enough to remove the booster to get relatively powerful braking? Or would it be better to upgrade to a twin pot caliper?
 
Also with the bias boxes is it going to make that much of a difference with the m16 setup or would a standard pedal kit be enough for a bit of track and general street use?
 
Any pics and info on what anyone has done would be great.
 
Thanks,
 
Jayden.
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    Matt75
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    Re: Removing Booster Mk1 (Bias Box?) 2013/11/01 09:38:40 (permalink)
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    Hey Mate,
     
    As with all mods it comes down to the intended use of the car and your budget.
     
    If you changed the struts to 2ltr ones and used a set of decent pads then you'd be amazed at the difference.  I am running volvo 4 pots upfront with vented laser TX3 rotors and Skyline R31 rear discs using the Datto M/C mounted to the firewall.
     
    It works great but I built it for track work.
     
    I'd go for the 2ltr struts as above and then see how you go as you can always space out the 2 ltr (M16) calipers and go vented if you find you need more braking.
     
    Cheers
     
    Matt
     

     

      
    post edited by Matt75 - 2013/11/01 11:08:16

     
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    hak073
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    Re: Removing Booster Mk1 (Bias Box?) 2013/11/01 09:46:50 (permalink)
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    Hey Jayden,
     
    I used one of these master cylinders off an unboosted mk1. It does away with the big arm and just bolts to the firewall.

     
    It worked great at the track with my setup, vented rotors, spaced M16 calipers and standard rear drums. The pedal needs a bit more of a push, but isn't crazy firm.

    #3

    escortinadriver
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    Re: Removing Booster Mk1 (Bias Box?) 2013/11/01 10:37:22 (permalink)
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    I had the same setup as Peter,
     
    I used the non boosted 1100 m/c with M16 calipers and 2lt 9 inch drums.  Pedal was firm but not excessive.  From memory I had to change a few fittings etc as it was a mix of metric/imperial however other than that, it all bolts up as per factory. 
     
    Shaun.
     
     

    'If I'd asked what people had wanted, they'd have said faster horses....' Henry Ford
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    Cano29
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    Re: Removing Booster Mk1 (Bias Box?) 2013/11/01 15:04:53 (permalink)
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    Thanks guys,
     
    I'll give it a go. It's already got the 2ltr struts in it as far as I know and the m16 calipers but they're pretty shot. I think I'll try some vented/slotted discs, new m16's and maybe some braided lines and try to find a datsun or escort master cylinder. 
     
     
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    Cano29
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    Re: Removing Booster Mk1 (Bias Box?) 2013/11/01 19:55:08 (permalink)
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    If I went a Bias box would it make much of a difference say if I went something like what matt has done? 

    Could you use pretty much any master cylinder you want? Why the 120y cylinder matt? There's a lot on eBay for the datsuns. Any recommendations on MC's? 
    #6

    Matt75
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    Re: Removing Booster Mk1 (Bias Box?) 2013/11/01 20:58:32 (permalink)
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    You can use any M/C you want really but it comes down to fluid dynamics.  Unassisted (non servo), the bigger the M/C the more force required to push the pedal but the less the pedal travels.  The opposite is true of a smaller M/C.  I.e.  easier to push but more pedal travel required.
     
    I went the Datto option as I know guys who have run it and have found it works well.  If I had my time again I'd just put a pedal box in it though.
     
    A bias box will allow you fine tune the amount of bias the fronts vs the rears have.    
     
    As you have the 2 ltr brakes and struts I'd rebuild the calipers and space them out with a kit from SMCKA and then using the vented rotors (also from SMCKA) I'd get some good pads and maybe braided lines and then you have a very good set up that has proven very competitive.
     
    Shoot me a PM if you want to discuss further what I did with the Datto M/C
     
    Cheers,
     
    Matt 

     
    My 4 door MK II Resto
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    #7
    Cano29
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    Re: Removing Booster Mk1 (Bias Box?) 2013/11/01 22:41:38 (permalink)
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    Yeah no worries. Will probably go the Bias box route. Only thing is rego/insurance wise, I'm guessing they're illegal to fit without an engineers certificate? I'm tossing up whether to get the whole car engineered as a lot will be changed but dreading how much it's going to cost. 
     
    Any boxes you would recommend or to stay away from? I've ordered some vented discs off stephen already and would probably end up buying a new pair of m16's off eBay (can get them from england for about $200), that way I know they are going to last a while. The original ones are pretty buggered and for that money I think it's worth it. Would rather some dual pots but just can't afford it at the moment. Too many other things to buy :)



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    Matt75
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    Re: Removing Booster Mk1 (Bias Box?) 2013/11/02 09:42:42 (permalink)
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    Contact Paul Dunstan on this forum re the pedal box. He has a thread going on her somewhere on how he makes them too.  He has great feedback from those who have bought them.
     
    Good luck
     
    Matt
     
     
     
     

     
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    #9
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