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Replacing standard rear arches

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escortinadriver
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2013/02/08 20:23:15 (permalink)
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Replacing standard rear arches

Hey all, 
I have a replacement rear arch outer section that I need to fit.
 
Problem is, I'm not 100% on the best way to tackle it. Is it best to but weld it on, or lap it ON or BEHIND the existing panel?
 
Has anyone gone about this process before that can give me a step by step guide??, Photos would be great!!!!
 
I want a finish with the least filler/panel warpage as possible.
 
Have also decided to mini tub the back end while I'm at it, so will document the lot with some photos.
 
Thanks, Shaun
post edited by escortinadriver - 2013/02/08 20:28:00

'If I'd asked what people had wanted, they'd have said faster horses....' Henry Ford
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    escortinadriver
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    Re:Replacing standard rear arches 2013/02/11 13:06:55 (permalink)
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    So no one has replaced their outer arches????
     
    Going to give it a shot anyway.  Thinking I'll lap the replacement panel behind the original metal.
     
    Shaun
     
     

    'If I'd asked what people had wanted, they'd have said faster horses....' Henry Ford
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    PeterM
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    Re:Replacing standard rear arches 2013/02/15 20:42:56 (permalink)
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    Hi Shaun,
    Usually best to neatly cut out the bad bits and trace out the replacement part with approximately 0.5mm gap. Butt with the 0.5mm gap, not overlap. 
    Weld using short welds and keep cool with a wet rag to miimise any distortion.
    Grind flush and final beat to complete.
     
    Hope this helps.  
    #3

    escortinadriver
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    Re:Replacing standard rear arches 2013/02/15 21:42:32 (permalink)
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    Thanks Peter,
     
    I have a few butt weld clamps so will give that a go.  Will need to do most of the arch lip as it had been flattened by the previous elderly owner.
     
    Shaun
     
     

    'If I'd asked what people had wanted, they'd have said faster horses....' Henry Ford
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    PeterM
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    Re:Replacing standard rear arches 2013/02/19 22:30:31 (permalink)
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    Hi Shaun,
     
    If the guard has been flattened and damaged often it can be easier and quicker to leave the guard intact but remove the wheel well/tub by drilling out the spot welds.
    Often the wheel well/tub is made in two pieces, so only necessary to remove the outer piece.
    This will then allow plenty of room to work on the guard from all angles and repair the wheel well/tub while it is out.
    Will also assist to keep the car in as original condition as possible.
     
    I am doing the same on an Escort at the moment rather than removing or replacing the entire guard which is an original panel.
     
    ta,
    peter.
    #5
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