Sure did!
 
Shoot me a PM if you want more info on how I set up the calipers.
 
Cheers
 
Matt

Given most volvo conversions are done using a 260mm rotor it is difficult to make a comparison between the 2.
 
At the end of the day take they are both proven performers.
 
Me, I'd go the the volvo's over the T16's as per the original post.
 
Matt

I have only ever used the standard diameter discs with the Volvo and they do work fine with no pad overhang if the mounting holes are modified correctly...
From a technical point either increasing the pad area or the disc diameter will increase the effectiveness of the brakes by giving more bite (leaverage). With the normal sized discs and larger pad area, this will put more heat into the disc so vented are worthwhil for racing where you are going to use the brakes alot. I always make sure that after a sprint I use virtually no brakes on the cool down lap to allow the brakes to cool or they will warp the disc.

Given the cost of a spacer kit for the M16 calioers has to be bought and then installed in the calipers vs the cost of a secondhand set of Volvo calipers I would argue that the Volvo work out slightly cheaper. However if you already had good pads for your existing M16 vs buying good pads for the Volvo then costwise the balance tips back to the M16... both are cast iron and relatively heavy so not really much in it there.

With the hilux caliper, it ultimately depends upon the mounting lugs and how close they are to the M16 ones. That is why Volvo are used as they are relative close to the M16 lug spacong and can be easily modified.

Cannot get any photos ATM, as I am virtually bedridden after a back operation and not allowed to bend let alone crawl under cars... I did my original ones by using early mk2 t piece (off the early 2 pipe master cyl cars) and makiking up a couple of very short hard lines that goe from the caluper inlets to the t piece and the standard escort flex line. For the second conversion I did for the rally car (not actually finished yet) Gdub got some custom flex lines that actually have dual outlets at the strut end - so no separate t piece and only 2 simple solid lines to the 2 caliper inlets. I have also seen the dual caliper manifold used as mentioned above an if you are going to rebuild them you can also cross drill the 2 inlets joining them an then out a blank on the lower inlet to use a single solid line...

Don't get me wrong, I have M16's on the motorkha, Autocross and road escorts, but for the race and rally escorts where I need that little extra reliable front brake, I have the standard diameter vented escort discs with volvos.s. the race car has done over 100,000km and a number of sprints and hillclimbs without any front brake issues ever in the last 15 years since it was done. I wish all other mods were so trouble free.... in fact the the only front calipers I ever had issues with were a spaced.M16 and currently a stock M16 with a sticky pisto, but that cold potentially I cur for any older caliper.. the most recent one even cooked the fluid to the point that the pedal dropped to the floor and it burnt the dust seals off while driving sedately on the road... it did however get a pedal back and make it back home 2 hours later and pulling apart and cleaning and replacing the stock bits was quite easy too.

Just my opinion though from my 24 years of playing with escorts.

>> "the fastest Escorts in Australia".
Interesting claim Mk1 Lotus - maybe on the East Coast. What about over here in the WA scrub? The fast Escorts here certainly arent all using M16's.
Having said that, from a stopping point of view, its not usually about the caliper itself - the pad and the size of the disc are most important. I've run M16's that stopped just as well as other fancy combinations - good pads is the answer - but for how long is usually the issue.
The biggest issue I had with M16's was the pistons cocking over in the bore and jamming, causing uneven pad wear and pulling to one side or the other. This doesnt seem to happen with the 4 pots, as the pistons are narrower for the same height. Just a physical attribute, but it definatley helps.
I haven't used the Volvo's, but have gone the jap crap Mazda calipers, and they have proven to be trouble free for about 12 years of sprints/hill climbs etc. with only the initial re-kit when I bought them (for $250!). It certainly put my 10 years of M16 pain behind me never to look back.
 
Ash

I run the standard T16 calipers with standard diameter vented rotors on my Nc Twin Cam and have no problems at all. My mates RS1600 has Volvo 4 spots and I have no trouble catching him or just about any other car under braking. I have never had brake fade in any race and have really good pedal feel. I spoke to Howard at Race Brakes and he says the standard twink caliper has more clamping force and less flex than the Volvo. Dont know about that but I have no reason to want to change anyway.
I ran the standard calipers on my tarmac Twin Cam and found towards the end of a long, very twisty stage, (over 20k's) I was getting a bit of fade. I swapped to AP 4 spots on the front with larger rotors and Sierra rear discs and found them excellent with almost no fade. However on a circuit such as Phillip Island or Sandown the Nc car stops just as good if not better than my tarmac car.
 Cheers Peter

Who or what is the RAT? Zaps rat? I think he's using outlaw calipers :)
 
Mr Lotus, I totally agree that the stopping power of the M16's is good - I've run DS3000's in them and found them to be awesome from a stopping power point of view lap after lap. The only issue was reliability (pistons) and the relatively small disc (Capri 2.8) that had to try and contain the heat (not entirely the calipers fault, but a side effect of what can fit within it). Again, no fade - ever - with DS3000's, but the discs would crack after just a few sessions, so time for bigger discs and some cooling.
 
Barbagallo is meant to be a bvgger of a track for braking systems - maybe that has something to do with it.
 
Road car? Not a problem - M16's with a "fast road" pad - add the capri discs and spacers for the odd track day. Ferodo TS2000's are good (also called "FF"'s), but I dont think you can get them anymore. Mintex M1144's were also pretty good - again, not sure they are still available. Having to find something for my daily GC8 (never tracked) and not having much luck myself.
 
Ash

Hi Evo,
They are the S4/S5 RX7 calipers.
The piston sizes are 36mm diameter, so it works out to slightly less fluid required to displace them than the M16's (54mm). What that effectively means is you need more pedal pressure to get the same pad pressure on the disc (works out at 11% more). Pads are larger than M16.
On the RX7, the discs are around 290mm. I'm using BMW 5 series discs that are 285x22 and mount over the hub (not behind like escort/capri and TX3).
$250 for the pair of calipers 2nd hand from a jap wrecker. Seal kit was something like $20-30 per caliper.
Paul Dunstan has written a comprehensive page on this conversion in the brakes section of the forum.
Ash

Hawk.
 
HP's are similar to Bendix ultimate but better price $110 set with no noise and very little dust. range 49c - 400c.
 
HP Plus have better co-efficent than HP's and will go a bit longer with out fade, same operating temp, bit of noise and will leave dust $160 set.
 
HT-10 Race pad. Stop with a few meters of anything I've used, but they last. DS3000 I would get 2 meetings, HT-10 I get 4-5. $265 set.