gtv6 just read your post ...

so the golden hue i flipped about is ok?

Should i still pressure wash .. keep in mind their are LOTS of crevices acid can seep into even though im careful applying so i thought i was on winner with the water wash ..

confused now

Bummer, yes the yellow tinge is good, it means the conditioner has worked. No need to pressure spray, youre not trying to remove the acid just neutralise it. Be sure to blow hard to get at places with air to dry them. To remove rust/old paint in hard to get at areas I use the clean and strip disks, keep them moving as they heat the panel up real fast.

Be carefull when talking to crash repair guys as they work different to restorers. eg many crash repairers say to bog over bare metal, restorers say never bog over bare metal as the heat causes condensation which will rust later. Makes sense. How many times have you seen bog fall out or crack due to rust under it? The restorers (who taught me) say to only bog over epoxy primer.

When talking to reps make sure you tell them which system you want to use, metal condition followed by epoxy primer, or etch primer followed by normal primer. They are 2 different methods. The way we were taught was based on ppg products.

To strip rust I sand with 80, then 120 then metal condition. I use 40 to remove bog and 36 on a 7" sander (or clean and strip disk) to remove tough rust.

Again mg pics (still doing capri mechanical first)of before and after sanding procedure (not metal conditioned yet)




Before



After

So to summarise the method I was taught and use is.
Strip
Sand
metal condition
epoxy primer
bog
more epoxy primer if bogging takes you past allowable time
high build primer
guide coat then block back
colour coat
clear coat

Even though you cant see any new rust I would still go over the whole with with metal conditioner again right before painting. For the sake of an extra 45 mins better to be safe than sorry - but that's just me.

Looks good Jonny. That grill section I haven't touched and I dont really know what to do either.Im thinking a sand blast to get most of it clean then blow over it.Its not done very well from the factory if you see and original car the paint is just lightly blown in that general direction. Are you going to get rid of some of those screw holes?
Youre right about never seeing bare metal again.

Nice work! The data sheet you posted lists nozzle size as 1.5-2mm at 50-60 psi.

Dont know about sand blasting, how will you get the sand out? I would worry about it settling in the gaps and retaining water later.

I will ask the guys at night school if they have any ideas.

A couple of before paint pics.

quote:

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Originally posted by hotboostgt

Looks nice and straight. Did you tape over the chassis number so you can build clear over it later?
Ive heard horror stories of road transport dept come rego time scraping paint off with a screwdriver so they can read the numbers.[8~2]

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It WILL happen, trust me!!!

Shaun

The position of the chassis/body number will depend on what the build year was. From your pics it looks like a '71 or '72, so the chassis number (a CK number) will be stamped in the engine bay on top of the drivers side shock tower. It will be curved around the opening for the strut top between two of the three bolt holes - between the hole closest to the drivers guard and the hole closest to the front of the car.

For a 1970 it will be stamped on the highest point of the slam panel, behind the bonnet lock mechanism. There will also be a number stamped on top of the drivers shock tower (between the two inner bolt holes and parallel to the inner guard), and this will be a J number which should also be on the compliance plate.


Cheers

Jamie