Right. Back to the repair work.

The test fit of the heater worked a treat. Fits like it did before i chopped the bulkhead apart.

Top section of the front firewall was welded in today from the engine bay side. I'm saving the inside welding for one big hit as i'm trying not to start too many different things at once.






Next job is to roll the lip down against the firewall and seam weld it. This gives a little more room behind the rocker cover and helps to strengthen the firewall. That'll finish the engine bay side firewall welds then it's into the inside to finish off the lap welds, seam seal and paint.

Just posting this here as i don't want to forget it and i'm trying to keep all my information in one place.

Exhaust manifold stud replacement = M8 X 20 Cap head bolts or hex head as required.

front wing retaining bolts = m8/lock/nut x 6
CAM IS JUST OFF DIAL IN SPEC TO AVOID VALVE DAMAGE IN TRANSIT. THERE IS A SCRIBE MARK ON THE BACK CAM JOURNAL AND TOWER, ONCE THE HEAD IS ON TURN THE CAM TO THESE MARKS AND FIT TIMING BELT. ONCE BELT IS FITTED AND TENSIONED INLET VALVE 2 AND EXHAUST VALVE 3 WILL NEED ADJUSTING.

BEFORE FITTING CAM COVER WIPE LUBE OVER CAM LOBES.

NEW OIL AND FILTER MUST BE USED AND OIL NEEDS TO BE A MINERAL BASED 20W/50, 25W/50 OR 25W/60 NO SYNTHETIC CAN BE USED.
OIL FILTER SHOULD BE PRE-FILLED.

ONCE ENGINE IS STARTED AND OIL PRESSURE IS UP ENGINE SPEED SHOULD BE TAKEN TO 2000-2500RPM FOR 20 MINUTES TO BED CAM IN.

AFTER 20 MINUTES CAM COVER NEEDS TO BE REMOVED, HEAD RE-TORQUED AND VALVE CLEARENCES CHECKED.

FUEL WILL NEED TO A MINIMUM OF 95 OCTANE.
DON’T USE SHELL FUEL, MOBIL, BP AND CALTEX ARE BEST.

SPARK PLUGS WILL NEED TO BE NGK AP6 OR 7FS.
PLEASE NOTE SPARK PLUGS MUST BE FITTED WITH EARTH ELECTRODE BETWEEN 4 O’CLOCK 8, MARK THE HEX OF PLUG WITH A TEXTER IN LINE WITH ELECTRODE AND CHECK ONCE TIGHT, PLUGS MAY REQUIRE SWAPPING TO ACHIVE THIS, IT’S WORTH BUYING TWO SETS AT A TIME JUST IN CASE.

IGNITION AND CAM TIMING AS WELL AS JETTING MUST BE SET ON A DYNO.

SPEC.

CAM RL30

CLEARENCES IN .010” EX .012”

CAM TIMING INTIAL USING LIFT @TDC .125” INLET NUMBER 1

COMPRESSION RATIO

HEAD 43CC

HEAD GASKET SUPPLIED 6.79CC

RATIO FOR STANDARD LC ENGINE 10.88:1
“ “ “ HC “ 10.94:1
“ “ “ ENGINE WITH FLUSH DECK HEIGHT 11.01:1
“ “ FOR + .040” FLUSH DECK HEIGHT 11.23:1

COMPRESSION RATIO CAN BE RAISED BY USING A .030” HEADGASKET.

FLOW TEST RESULTS.
TEST CARRIED OUT @25” LIFT INL EX
100 59 59.5
150 85.5 78
200 116.6 98.5
250 139 100
300 155 110
350 158.3 120
400 169 126
450 179.4 131
500 183.5 136.4
550 189.5 -
OVER ALL EXHAUST % AVERAGE IS 79.7%
LOW LIFT EXHAUST FLOW % IS HIGH TO HELP CYLINDER SCAVENGE.
EXHAUST FLOW %AVERAGE FROM .250” ON IS 73.45%.

The part i need to weld is the other side of the overlap. I'm not welding into the back of the welds i've just done.

I'm fairly sure it's 50x50x2. The dolly is 1m wide and 1.5m long. The uprights are 33cm. The front top crossbar is 1m wide. The back is 1.3m wide on account of the change in rail spacing. The height from the floor to the chassis rails is about 55cm which is very handy for working around the car. It means i can sit on a chair while welding on most parts of the outside.

I'll measure the exact height to the chassis rails tomorrow when i get a chance.

Looks great Steve

There's nothing like a big project to get the juices flowing[:p]

Looking at the pic's of the gussets, just wondering if they'll trap water and dirt in 'em being that there's a small opening at the top (just where water would flow down) and are fully welded at bottom? Might be a rust problem in the making

Not knocking you're work Steve, as you've done a heck of a good job. It's the first time I've actually seen pic's of the gussets before painting. I'm thinking maybe cut out a little bit off the bottom edge of the gusset where it meets the firewall and rail to let any water and dirt that get's trap out before welding?? What do you guys think?

Yeah. I'm aware of that opening. There's also an opening in the firewall behind the gusset the normally has an oval shaped plug.

I left the hole there so i could make sure that i could access behind the gusset in the restoration stage so i can fill it with fish oil or the like then seal it up. The other option is to fill it with structural foam.

I'll get a photo from inside the car tomorrow to show the access holes in the firewall.