probably was, about the time I'm comming through there after work, where u in the cortina?

i just had a look at ur engine bay pic, i see what u mean about a weird linkage/throttle setup.

see if you can gather parts to make your own / find a complete linkage like mine:



from what i can tell without having them on the car, the throttle opens from the center, opening both carbies together.

to be honest i thought this was really the only setup around, never seen one like urs.

Sterling, i haven't seen one like mine before either. That arm that comes down int the centre would do a even job on pushing down but where it's located does that affect a sway bar position? How much was the one from redline Michael? And is it using a Hex Bar or round Bar? from my experience the round bar is junk because it eventually slips when you accelerate therefore losing throttle.

Blow into the diaphram where the inlet line goes, and see if it leeks air. don't pump the leaver at the rear and have break fluid go everywhere.
Reconditioning it is the safest bet.
A second hand one will just do the same thing once you start giving it a hard time.

quote:

---

Originally posted by 3sc0rt

Hey guys,
Brake Booster has had it and is the reason my vaccum is so sh!t. just wondering has a MkII brake booster for sale? or in your experience what have you done when your booster has stuffed up? take it somewhere to get fixed? or easy to fix yourself? it's the diaphram thats has stuffed up i think.

Rhys.

---

i left it unplugged.
man up, go booster less [:p]

I got two capri ones reco'd six months back for $180 each or around that, form a place in warners bay (Brakes by the bay) i thick there name is.O

Well... it seem's i may have to pull the twin 40 webers off and go back to the 32/36 for awhile due to my twin's running like a fat lady. Im having endless trouble with the venturies, tuning, soft mounts, linkage & vaccum advance.

So i am going to pull the twins off and put the old trust 32/36 back on and have it running better and way more effcient on fuel that's for sure!

My objective is to get the twins off and rebuild them so i can minimize all the dam trouble in having. Now i intend on getting new jets's, Venturies & choke size. Now im not a %100 on what jet's, venturies & what choke sizes are needed to achieve what i want [?] I'm looking for power more then every day drivability as it will now be a weekend toy or track day/hillclimb.

So the theory i've been told is that if you run bigger venturies it means more power and if they are smaller venturies it means more torque? & with bigger chokes you can make it run as good as 45's? (Please correct me if im wrong guys) & with the jets in them already they were put in when i first got it dynoed but since then i have got higher compression so i dont know how you can tell what size jet's you require to get the perfect match!

My setup is a:

- 2L Pinto
- 10:1 Compression
- Shaved head (cant remember exactly how much, im pretty sure it was a big shave because he warned me of blowing a head gasket [xx(])
- Port Polish Head
- Double valve springs
- Stage 4 Cam (3500-7000RPM)

The turning point for me where everything went bad was when i got my car dyno tuned for the second time and he changed the Venturies to a smaller size because he claimed them too big. So from then on i had troubles ranging from venturies poppin out into my filter boxes all the time, poor performance & a huge pain in my arse! [}:)] So now i am going to take the time to rebuild them the best way possible and have them complete for the Dyno tuner ready for hes tuning.

If anyone can give me some suggestions on Choke size, Venturie Sizes, jet sizes, Methods etc that would be a great help. I haven't rebuild carbs before and i dont really know the formulas to get what i want and hoping maybe someone on here know's what im lookin for [:x)]

Send an email to Gary Brampton at eurocarb

Gary@eurocarb [weborders@eurocarbltd.idps.co.uk]

was a wealth of knowledge on webers / dellorto's bits and bobs for my setup.