Had a friend over for a few days to put his efforts into the rally pack sanding and priming etc, I hope it'll be super good for painting soon.
In the Meanwhile I had a smart think to roll out the bubble arch mk1 shell and do a 5 finger discount on its diff, then the Capri diff was put in it's place, thou a bit bolted up sideways as the Capri hangers are right in the way of escort ones so the quick plan was to just set it over to one side just so the car is still rolling..

Escort MK2 diff is in really good cond, virtually no lash out leaks except the pinion seal that's just weeping. No idea on ratio tho I reckon it's a 3.77777777 which is a good all rounder for street fun.
Last week I designed a spacer shim for the dash vents as the F truck ones are 8mm smaller, just enough to be annoyingly loose. Made them from TPU with the 3d printer, and as these still need some tweaks to match up to the vent hoses, once I get a decent map of the size etc I'll do the adjusting thing..


Also on the steering rack, I bought a set of blue gaiters and a set of red ones, shivering different from all day black

Everyone seems to get the Elegoo , strange name but they all pull from China so have donkey names.
I have a spare Creality Ender 3 in the box new if your interested, these are cheap now but very tunable for upgrades which can be printed .
I paid under $200 for my creality copy Voxelab printer and hasn't missed a beat in 2yrs.

This guy is a quick learner and recently bought a printer to tidy up his toolbox and design car bits, just go back a few episodes for catch-up.
https://youtu.be/XbkJNfuzCJ4?si=9wET5Iiur72mVmJ1

Also Deano is a master at 3d printing and will be a better person to ask pointers etc.

Start your printing fun with pla then move to petg and the others, like tpu etc. places like Jay car have regular sales on filament, from $10 a roll, great for starting out..
Depending on the programme you choose , Fusion, FreeCad , Orca Slicer etc, you can learn on Tinkercad to design simple stuff and just get used to the system, then the design usually gets saved as a Gcode to your folder then uploaded again to maybe Cura for final checks on how the printer will build the item, including wall thickness, infill quantity, and so on.

There's a guy on yt called Render Garage, he stacked his Torana SLR into a tree now it's being restored properly, in the meantime render guy is/has 3d printed SLR arches but was sliced in sections and glued.
Also Retro power cars use printers to make consoles, dash panels, prototyping intakes etc. Size isn't a factor, I scanned mk1 6 dial dash and had to print in 2 parts

Thanks for the input Deano.
I used autocad for years and then transitioned into 3D. It will be interesting to see how many brain cells I have left, and working? The laptop I bought for doing the tune on the cars should be up for the job.
My cousin over in Japan is a guru in these things (and more). 
I will organise a skype and I can hash out with him these thoughts you guys have forwarded 

yeah well then you'll be way ahead of the learning curve.
For anyone else, the simplest program to get running designwise with is Tinkercad, also made by Autocad, and free. I bought Rhino, then a newer upgraded release, and its paused there. 
Just check maybe what filaments youd want to use, things like carbon are abraisive on the print 'nozzle, and are often an extra option. A heated bed, enclosure, and larger build size are nicer features rather than having 5 colours available, unless you are into skulls and stuff!

Very little work on my car as I've been rewiring the CNC table as some things were not as I liked and I received an update to smooth out the circuits. Between that and mowing the paddock I did the last part of welding on the rally pack in the boot, of the viewers remember I made a boot for panel to replace the rusty sections . My measurements came up spot on too with the rib lines, only 2 was out by 2mm but nothing a few belts with the hammer couldn't fix.
Here is the hole I cut for the new panel

Checking fitment and locking it in place with cleco pins

I did the Fitzee cut n butt method which works well on a big part like this

Tacked and then fully welded


I will clean up the welds this weekend and beat any wobbly areas back straight, but with it being a boot floor, I won't be spending much time doing it..

Yeah, thanks mate, it seems to reduce buckling as well, tho some is unavoidable, it can be tapped back in line. When doing the cut/butt method you can see the panel underneath slowly falling away as you go around. My good cut was about 2in inside the line so I could cleco the panel down to then cut n weld over a few beers so the warp doesn't set in !