Re: Pinto cam installation
Marty is 100% spot on. Before starting to fit Head to block, check "flatness" of both Head and Block regardless of alleged advice that "it's all done". Check your "STRAIGHT-EDGE TOOL" for its own straightness first.
Of the hundreds of head replacements I've ever done, NOT once have I installed the head gasket without a thin haze of "Hylomar" Spray-on, on both sides of Gasket, regardless of how vintage or modern the engine, regardless of the Gasket Manufacturers advice NOT to use any such supplement. I've NOT ONCE had a come-back to re-work. The same vehicles returned for regular service for many years ongoing.
If your head bolts are original "non-stretch" and the Shop Manual mentions nothing of replacing them, then Ive always re-used them. Ensure ALL Bolts and Bolt Holes are clean. Insert all in their appropriate Holes till "home" and ensure distance from Bolt-Head underside to Deck is LESS than thickness of Head, taking Washer into account if one is used.
Unftntly all "modern" vehicles that we get thru our shop, have "stretch bolts" to ensure extracting more $$$$$ out of the consumer.
Check to see if ANY Head Bolts penetrate water jacket. If so, ensure to apply Cement to top 3 or 4 threads of BOLT that can be seen via "witness marks" to engage Head.
Before starting the engine, COAT thinly ALL metal friction points with Colloidal Graphite or Copper-coat or any ANTI-FRICTION coating.
Before Starting the engine, full of fresh correct oil and filled new oil filter, TURN THE ENGINE OVER 720 degrees BY HAND AT THE CRANK BOLT (NEVER AT THE CAM). This not only starts to prime the oil galleries, but allows you to ENSURE you have correct VALVE TIMING as you'll feel a "clunk" as rotation stops if wrong. If done slowly, no damage is likely to occur. and you have a damage-free chance to re-set the Valve timing correctly.............. And enjoy that beer/bourbon !
IF NOT RIGHT, PISTONS WILL CRASH INTO OPEN VALVES AND LIKELY RUIN EVERYTHING except the Crank !
Never assume you have a NON-INTERFERENCE ENGINE.
I learned this lesson the hard way as a 17 y/o know-it-all, and have seen over-confident backyard Mechanics repeat this error too many times always ending in ruined engines. Lucky it was my car I ruined the engine on and not a client's.
MINERAL OIL IS CHEAP. CHANGE EVERY 5000 KMS OR 12 MTHS
SYNTHETIC OIL IS EXPENSIVELY SUPERFLUOUS IF NOT MANDATED AND MINERAL OIL IS.
Any of my vehicles mandated for Synthetic get changed every 10,000 kms to err on the side of "i-cant-be-F$#@&%-rebuilding" an oil-deprived engine, for the sake of 5,000 or 10,000 extra clicks
New Filter every time. Fill it with oil before installing; if design allows (as in filter thread faces UP.)
Except Essex V6 where a CORRECT "Z38"(2724E6714C) with CENTRE TUBE, allows a lot of oil to go in before installing .
"GOOD BETTER BEST: NEVER LET IT REST: UNTIL YOUR GOOD IS BETTER, AND YOUR BETTER, BEST"
( Furphy WW1 HORSE-DRAWN water-tank end-plates)