Sump removal / engine mounts

Hi Paul
ENG Mt cups sit on top of mounts to protect rubber from extractors heat , and not ship water which they would below.
I recall very little room between sump and x member so I'm guessing you'd have to loosen both mounts and crane engine up as far as poss if you're feeling lucky, or you think rest of engine is so perfect, you can't justify its removal, which would be rare. If sump only is leaking, the others will leak as soon as you fix sump........ask MURPHY for 2nd opinion !
BERNIE

V6 sump wont clear the X-member.  You need to disconnect the mounts and lift the engine with a crane.

My 72 has cups on the bottom.  Given how deep they are maybe they are intended to support the sides of the mounts to minimise how far they deform.
 
My mechanic tried to do sump gasket by lifting engine but gave up and decided to remove engine.

Heat shields are usually made from a light weight, reflective material and are installed to allow air flow around the item being shielded.  Since these are thick metal, painted black, and are a tight fit over the mount which prevents air flow and would trap heat I very much doubt they have anything to do with heat protection.
 
I suspect they are the first design iteration of what is now known as an engine mount support cup, which became standard on mk3's and are available from Burtons and others as after market spares.  The current ones are full depth but ours are only half depth so they would have been installed to give the mount support where its needed, which is where the lever arm is the greatest, which is at the cross member end facing up.
 
Since they are a snug fit, coated and installed at an angle the chance of water ingress and corrosion would be minimal.  The weight of the engine on the mount is causing a tight seal at the bottom.  After 10 years as a daily driver mine didn't have any rust.
 
If ours were to be installed at the engine end facing down, it would effectively stiffen the top half of the mount making the sheering at the cross member end worse, and if extractor heat was a problem, which based on the distance apart I doubt, they would trap heat and cook the top of the mount.
 
 
 

Think about how it cools once the engine is shut down.  If the cup is at the top and has been heated by the extractors, the cup would have to cool before the mount under it starts to cool, so the cup will retain the heat at the mounts surface while it slowly cooks .... I mean cools.

As Philh has shown; the Cortina app seems to care less which way they go.
 
The following IMHO are facts that cannot be disputed.....
 
1/  Water (rain/engine wash) and Debris(gravity) WILL collect with cup at bottom of mount, that wont do on top
 
2/  Rubber sideways support WILL occur whether cup is at top or bottom
 
3/   Most importantly.......Torque stress and distortion will be greater at top of rubber mount due
       to smaller surface area of cast iron eng brkt compared to full surface at X-member end,  and thus cup at
       top will provide a "stiffener plate" and even up un-equal surface area support
 
4/  With engine extractors at their hottest 99% of time while travelling (red to white hot) even with air flow, I feel
     this immense direct heat is better deflected/dissipated with cup at top where MAX heat is radiating for MAX time
 
5/  Both my Ford 351's have been raced at Sandown with standard engine mounts that never came with any cups
     or devices to prevent distortion or breakage. They have MUCH more torque & power that a V6 Essex. They have 
     both won races and the ORIGINAL stock engine mounts have been there for over 30-35 years.
 
I've yet to hear on this forum and any other source in the last 45 years that stock un-modified Engines have ever broken
their mounts on any Capri; cups or no cups...............or that they're trouble-prone.  Please inform me if you've heard different.
 
One thing I have noticed over the years; the Poms knew how to make an Engine Mount, even if they knew nothing to
prevent oil leaks !
 
While on "rubber and heat", it may be a timely reminder to check your HEATER HOSE that runs under RH Extractors between rear of WP and firewall, as it comes VERY close to bothe Engine and Extractor HEAT, albeit relieved with water/coolant within.
There is an important hose bracket near rear of RH Cyl Head to help keep in place. I believe hose should pass between Block and Dipstick to avoid Extractors on V6 Essex. 

English Car = English Language
Is it a Cup? or  a Cap?
Maybe the answer was in the original question.