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Weber 32/36 help

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ashton
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2017/10/21 23:10:20 (permalink)
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Weber 32/36 help

Hi guys. I have a Mk2 Escort with a 2.0L Pinto motor with a Weber DGV that was running - albeit not super well - about six months ago. While on the road the gearshift lever snapped off and it sat for a few months until I got another one ordered. Installed the new gear lever and I find that the car won't start and idle for more than ~1 second and it would not start with the choke set to anything but fully closed. Throttle position changed nothing.
 
Thinking that the carbs were the culprit I pulled them, ultrasonically cleaned everything, cleaned with carb cleaner, blew them out with high pressure air and put in a rebuild kit covering O-rings, gaskets, internal filter, valve seat and needle. Fuel filter renewed at the same time. The carbs weren't particularly clean inside and the internal filter was very clogged.
 
Brass floats were tested, no leaks there. Float height set as per manual.
 
New carbs on annnnnd... same problem. It'll run fine on starter fluid but it will only start on closed choke and will only run for ~1 second at a time.
 
Thinking the fuel filter may be part of the problem I renewed the fuel lines and temporarily eliminated the filter, no change.
 
The engine will run on starter fluid for as long as you care to spray it in the intake for, so I suspect that timing is not the culprit.
 
I pulled the top of the carbs off and noted that the fuel level in the carb bowl was barely sufficient to cover the jets. The float appeared to be able to move up and down freely. I added 30ml of fuel to the bowl, closed it all back up again and the car started and ran for about 15 seconds before dying. Upon re-starting it would only run for ~1 second.
 
Since the float appeared to move freely, this leads me to suspect that the fuel pump isn't filling the bowl sufficiently rapidly. When you pull the fuel line off the mechanical fuel pump and crank the motor, should the fuel be coming out at a drip.. drip.. drip.. rate or faster than that? All I get are steady drips, nothing like what you'd call a flow. I know it's a low-pressure pump but have no real idea of just what should be coming out.
 
Any other thoughts are MOST welcome. I would really like this car back on the road so I can get a blue slip and get it out of the yard...
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    ashton
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    Re: Weber 32/36 help 2017/10/22 09:57:45 (permalink)
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    Well, that's a point... it can't hurt to replace all the vacuum lines as they're not as soft as they could be anyhow.
     
    On that note, though... does the fact that it idled just fine for a period with more fuel in the float bowl really point to a vacuum leak? Would a vacuum leak impact on the amount of fuel in the float bowl?
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    Drewdog
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    Re: Weber 32/36 help 2017/10/22 10:50:20 (permalink)
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    The pump should flow a decent amount of fuel not a drip, drip. There should be a gauze filter in the pump but theres a couple of different types, some can be pulled apart others not. Try pumping from a jerry can, that will tell you whether you're getting fuel from the tank and eliminate that. Another thing to try is to run it without the fuel cap, I had one many years ago that was knackered and wouldn't allow the tank to vent therefore creating a vacumn and not allowing any fuel to be drawn.
    You could try adjusting the mixture, just record your settings and how many turns you make so it can be returned to the original setting if it doesn't work.
    Cheers Drew
    post edited by Drewdog - 2017/10/22 10:53:35

    GT Cortina Project "The Ugly Duckling"
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    NQRS
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    Re: Weber 32/36 help 2017/10/22 19:21:08 (permalink)
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    how about the diaphragm in the fuel pump?  Mine was knackered and I ended up just using the electric fuel pump I had set up to prime the carbies. I 'm led to believe that the diaphragm can't be replaced, that you have to get another fuel pump?  Got access to another pump you can use to eliminate this possibility?  Len
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