DONT MOVE THAT CRANK ON THAT OLD ENGINE TILL YOU READ THIS

I thought I should post this Bulletin to avoid so many possible ruined engines with some simple steps................
Hopefully my free advice as a qualified mechanic will be appreciated...........
 
THERE'S NOT MUCH POINT TO "TURNING OVER" AN OLD ENGINE BY HAND JUST "TO SEE IF IT'S SEIZED" WHICH MAY MEAN YOU'VE JUST CRACKED PERFECTLY GOOD RINGS, AND RIPPED GOOD VALVE SEALS, AND SCORED VALVES IN THEIR GUIDES, PLUS OTHER ENGINE DAMAGE BY DOING SO
 
NEVER HIT THE KEY FOR THE STARTER TO SHOCK THE BEJUSUS OUT OF THE POOR OLD GIRL........ALWAYS BY HAND FIRST
 
1/ Worst scenario.........Engine out in weather for 3 months or more with rain water getting in
     Procedure........don't even try and turn it over..........complete strip and assessment is the only choice
 
2/ next best scenario.............as above but no rain or salt spray getting inside motor that hasn't turned over for 12 months or more.......DO NOT MOVE CRANK. read on......
     Procedure........rocker covers off and spark plugs out and Timing Cover & Sump off if possible...........if no signs of huge rust and/or damage, spray generous amounts of WD40 or RP7 or similar light lube EVERYWHERE on everything that normally moves......Put at least 2 or 3 tablespoons or more of same light lube inside EACH cylinder.......allow to stand for more than 3 hours........on return repeat above lube of valve gear and cylinders......then place breaker bar and socket on Crank Front Bolt. Attempt GENTLE movement just 1 mm......if crank moves easily, repeat in opposite direction. Then go 2 to 3 mm in orig direction......then back the other way in 3 to 4 mm......keep increasing GRADUALLY in smack increments AS LONG AS IT FEELS FREE, and your observation of valves and rocker gear movements looks normal ...........if there's any tightness or BINDING AT ALL,  S T O P ! , and go back to adding MORE LUBE to as many moving parts as possible. Gently lift Valve Guide seals evenly to get lube in, if possible. If you go all the way, before turning crank, loosen off and examine all MAINS and BIGENDS Caps/bearings, using light lube on EVERYTHING as you disassemble carefully. Do not mix up caps and bearings. Mark everything and make sure all items go back where they came from, and renew where necessary.
 
3/   "not-so-serious-lay-up"..............Follow steps as in PROCEDURE 2/ but may be able to skip Sump and Timing Cover removal
 
4/  Once all movement is free and full circle and many hand revs of crank at front bolt has been proven, and plugs are still out, hit the Starter now with a fully charged battery so rapid movement will force out excess lube from plug holes (drape a large cloth over all holes to avoid personal injury and wear safety glasses). Put all items back to normal and start engine with CLEAN NEW OIL IN CRANK-CASE and a new filter THAT HAS BEEN PRIMED BY FILLING WITH AS MUCH NEW OIL AS POSSIBLE.
 
Hope the above explains how this may save you GRIEF you don't need
 Its after midnight now and I'm off to sleep,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,bye for now.................Bernie

This is only part of the problem of a layup.
 
Don"t forget to completely drain all old fuel and replace with fresh fuel prior starting engine.
My policy is to completely drain and replace all fuel, and allow the engine to run once every 12 months.
 
But still I am having trouble.
In May 2016 I fitted two brand new fuel pumps (both of them) to my VL Commodore and fresh 91 octane fuel added to a completely empty tank. The car has been in storage inside a dry factory unused since then.
 
I ran the car for a few minutes yesterday, completely drained all fuel and added 98 octane fuel.
Now the car refuses to start and has very low fuel pressure on the high side of the fuel pumps and no fuel getting to the engine. Most likely cause is the fuel has damaged the pumps during storage.
 
I am starting to question the quality of the pump fuel we are being sold.
 
A few months ago the head gasket failed on my 1988 Ford Laser most probably due to poor quality fuel.
I have known the car since 1998 and never previously had a problem always happy with 91 octane fuel.
 
It is becoming general knowledge fuel is now being imported from India and Singapore and is very low grade quality.
 
I now buy only 98 octane even for the lawn mower and chain saws.

Hey Peter. You haven't said a word re FUEL FILTER. Worth changing in case its that simple (Don't let Murphy know ur doing it!)
Then I'd check fuses and fuel pump relays. Attatch Diagnostic Scanner that many seem to own these days. Basic one is a must-have if you own a efi but it wont talk to a VL from memory as I think it,s OBD1 at best.

Hi All,
Thank you for your assistance. A BIG green thumbs up from me.  :)
 
Yes I did all usual checks re fuel filters, fuel lines, fuses and relays and kill switches. All were good.
I replaced the in tank fuel pump. Still no fuel into fuel lines.
Replaced external pump. Car started straight away once fuel lines had fuel.
Bosch representative says these type of pumps will not last if standing in fuel and not started every few weeks.
The pumps I had in the car were fitted brand new in late April 2016 and had run for approx 20 minutes before storing the car, until last week.
 
So motto with this thread is to run the engine regularly even if you do not intend to drive it.