Thanks for the comments guys

TEX, I'm not sure if it's patience or just plain lack of time in the garage but it's all falling into place slowly.

Ben, The strut brace will come with stage 2 as the plan is to not have any obstructions I'm happy to provide info regarding my progress to assist others where I can as I'm sure I have gained from others also.

Nice picture pual
u have got a good collection

Looking good Paul.

As I read through that last post, I thought I'd reply to you and suggest that you weld bolts into the pedal box to hold the M/C's rather than nuts, as it makes it much easier to work on when its under the dash and you are re-installing the M/C's for one reason or another, as they will locate themselves on the bolts and you then you just need to do up the nuts.

I see that you have already welded the nuts on however - too late to change?

Ash

Easy solution[%] Put bolts through the nuts to form studs, they can be interchanged if different lengths are needed[;^)]

Dont you love it when a plan comes together :)

An annoying question no doubt but do you have a completion timeframe in mind yet?? Guess you have taken this long so no doubt its a case of whenever. Just looking forward to seeing it on the streets!!

Well - had some free time in the garage today

As promised - some pics of the remote reservoir I'm going with. Detailed view showing float with the magnet to operate the low fluid warning switch. As I cannot have a differential switch (as per the original braking system) as I'm running a dual master system - this is the only option. Some soapy water, small gravel (to clean inside) and it's come up like new




I'm looking at using the original bracket from the donor Mazda to position the reservoir adjacent to the drivers side bonnet hinge. I think I'll proably manufactiure a simple bracket to bolt it to the bonnet hinge mount.




I have reversed the position of the switch mechanism to easily allow the reservoir to mount the oposite way on the bracket to clear the switch wiring. It also positions the reservoir perfectly to have the hoses enter at 90 degrees to the bulkhead sheet metal. I will not have the hoses exit the cabin on the horizontal surface adjacent to the heater plenum (as per the usual dual reservoir set-up) but exit further up on the inclined area of fire wall (just below the recessed section in the pic below). I need to finalise the mounting, location and hose run prior to paint so I'm not drilling my freshly painted shell [:u].




Also finished welding up the pedal box and removing the side sections to allow clearance for the bias bar. I had to modify it slightly as I was not 100% happy with the alignment of the brake pedal axis to the master cylinders push rods. Ideally the master cylinder push rods should be perpendicular cylinder to the mounting face at the point of full application - mine were slightly below. All good now

All that's required is to give it a final sand blast @ work and off to the powder coaters. I will leave trimming the push rod lengths to correct the pedal height once time comes to mounting it in the car.










Plus - had a quote for the paint so I need to pull my finger out!

Warning - Technical content

Engineering requires the brake fluid reservoir to be able to supply the braking system with sufficient fluid during the full service period of the components. That is, as the pads wear the reservoir must be have enough fluid to allow for the piston extension and not run dry (actually must only use 75% of total volume).

Allowing 7mm pad wear (very conservative) my 4 brake callipers consume 88.71ml. My reservoir MUST be able to supply this and still retain a minimum of 25% of it's capacity. Therefore my replacement reservoir must have a minimum volume of 118.28ml. Good news - the Mazda 323 reservoir has a usable volume of approximately 150ml - I have that box ticked