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knocking

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wade
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2014/10/02 17:47:12 (permalink)
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knocking

hi everyone,

i have a mk2 pinto that i have rebuilt the motor on. anyway the other day i pulled it in off the street back under the car port then the throttle jammed open (engine not run in) and i heard something let go and then when i got it back to idle there was a constant knocking from the rear bottom end. the motor is now out and i have pulled the sump off and inspected the main and big end bearings and they all seem like new still. upon pulling the fly wheel off i noticed that the flywheel bolts were only finger tight (i had done them up tight). could this be the cause of my knocking?? or is there anything i should check before putting the motor back in???
#1


6 Replies Related Threads

    gtv6capri
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    Re: knocking 2014/10/02 19:07:53 (permalink)
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    Had a horrible knock develop in an XW GT which was exactly what you have, flywheel bolt and a dodgy pressure plate.  The knock changed markedly when I put my foot on the clutch

    Capri The car I always promised myself
    #2
    greenmk2
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    Re: knocking 2014/10/02 19:47:59 (permalink)
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    I was at the drags the other week and my mate had a horrible knock after his first run, turned out to be loose fly bolts.

    MK2 2 door
    Daily driver: Jeep Grand cherokee
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    AU falcon (other Daily)
    #3

    NQRS
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    Re: knocking 2014/10/03 10:19:30 (permalink)
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    Hi wade and vibration ,
    When you said that you had done them up tight did you use a torque wrench to tighten them to the recommended setting? Some threadlock on them as well is always good due to the high stress they are subject to and the vibration.
     
    Len
    #4
    BEE VEE
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    Re: knocking 2014/10/04 23:27:30 (permalink)
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    From your report, I would recommend you ensure mating faces of crank to flywheel are perfectly flat and undamaged(bearing-blue plus true-test in lathe), then tightening all NEW bolts evenly(don't use old bolts after what they've suffered), using 'thread-locker' and correctly tensioned with a pro tension wrench.
    Ensure threads have not been compromised, or else all the above will be for nought.

    "GOOD BETTER BEST: NEVER LET IT REST: UNTIL YOUR GOOD IS BETTER, AND YOUR BETTER, BEST"
    ( Furphy WW1 HORSE-DRAWN water-tank end-plates)
    #5
    wade
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    Re: knocking 2014/10/05 16:40:37 (permalink)
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    I did them up to specs but did not use any locktite. They weren't loose but were finger tight. Upon close inspection number 4 conrod bearing looks like it's got some radial wear on one side of the shell would that also cause a knock???
    #6

    BEE VEE
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    Re: knocking 2014/10/05 21:08:00 (permalink)
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    Finger-tight IS loose......big time.
    See my last recommendation "to the letter" inc Loctite which is a must.
    Re your B/shell "some wear" could mean anything..........drop in to your local engine re-builder or Senior mechanic
    for a eyes-on opinion.

    "GOOD BETTER BEST: NEVER LET IT REST: UNTIL YOUR GOOD IS BETTER, AND YOUR BETTER, BEST"
    ( Furphy WW1 HORSE-DRAWN water-tank end-plates)
    #7
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