Timmeh - back for more! Page 8

The main ends were then lubricated with engine assembly grease and torqued to their correct values in four stages, stepping up to the desired torque.


The pistons were next to go in. Little sleeves were put over the bolts to ensure they didn’t scratch the cylinder walls or the crank, when they went in. A good tip I was given was that fuel line can work just as effectively, but these specifically made ones can be acquired for next to nothing also.



Next was to insert the pistons into the cylinders. First we made sure the oil spacer gap and oil rings were correctly orientated, and also the two compression rings. We then installed the bearings onto the conrod big ends, and lubricated them. Then we lubricated the piston skirts with engine oil, and also the cylinder bores. The easiest way to get the ring compressors on is to sit the piston half into the cylinder, and once it’s square in the bore, put the ring compressor over the piston and tighten it up. Then we used the wooden handle of a rubber mallet to tap the piston into place. If it isn’t going in with a little force, then it means one of the rings has come out of the ringcompressor. Time to pull it out and try again, definitely DO NOT just apply more force to a ring that has slipped out.



When installing the pistons, take note of the witness marks on the conrod and big ends (big ends being the cap that bolts onto the conrods on the crank end, for those who aren’t sure what I am talking about). Here you can see number three piston witness marks.



Once all the pistons were in, torqued up, it was time for the head to go on. Time to crack out that torque wrench again! Also, the welsh plugs in the block that had been removed for the block cleaning had to be replaced, so using Stag joining compound and a socket the size of the internal pressing, new brass welsh plugs were hammered into place.



Next up, the auxiliary shaft was lubricated with engine assembly grease and installed. Interesting to note, it only runs on the one bearing at the front, despite looking like it should have another one at the rear. We then installed the auxiliary shaft oil seal on, and then the water pump.

Next on was the distributor, though this was to check how it was all going. I'll probably rip this dizzy out and put in a dual point Mallory that I have laying around in a box, but I know this one works, we'll see.


The orientation of the distributor is not as important as the timing of it. On my rally car, the vacuum advance on the dizzy (the bellows shaped UFO-looking round thing on the side) points towards to front left headlight, as the race sump dictates it has to be there. The proper orientation (according to Gregorys manual on it anyway) for the Escort is with the vacuum advance side to the rear of the engine. It doesn’t matter as much as the orientation of the dizzy rotor to the housing. Both have a mark on them, for when piston number one is in top dead centre compression stroke. These need to align, when the engine is in that position. So you slide the rotor down inside the gap for it in the block, where the threaded section mates with the auxiliary shaft. You then rotate the distributor housing to align the two marks. If the dizzy is not facing the way you want it, you need to remove the rotor and insert it in a different way, so that the housing follows.



Now that all those bits and pieces are installed, I decided it was time to hit the engine with a bit of paint to make sure it didn’t rust. I had been waiting until it was assembled, under the advice of the machine shop, but in hindsight, the easiest time to paint the engine would have been with the head on only. I masked up the areas I didn’t want paint to be, gave the block a good cleaning down with CRC Contact Cleaner to remove any oils, and then sprayed it with a charcoal high temperature engine paint.

Left hand side of the engine, all holes filled with rags, all masked up.



Right hand side, seen here. I used old spark plugs to make sure no paint went into the cylinders, and of course taped up any other holes and ports. Also made sure the RS engine number didn’t get painted over!



Here is the engine as it stands, still to be put back on are the engine mounts, oil spray bar, inlet manifold and carby, sump, and rocker cover, and awaiting the new thermostat and thermostat housing. Then it will be time to get the engine onto the engine crane and off the engine stand. The rear main seal will go on just before the flywheel, then the new clutch will go on, new gearbox, and then straight into the car.



That's about where the engine is at the moment, though hopefully will get some more done on it tomorrow. Any comments are welcome, I don't pretend to be an expert at this, just taking things as I go, asking questions, and learning. It's all about having fun and enjoying it.



Regards, Timmeh!

Thanks for your reply!

The engine is currently 20 thou oversize, was fortunate to keep it this way as one of the number two piston compression rings broke in the cylinder, fortunately it didn't do enough damage to the cylinder wall to cause a rebore out to 40 or even 60 thou. The cylinder hone was enough to remove the marks that it left behind.

The head is ported and polished, over sized valves, and has a worked cam fitted - but not stupid lumpy, just enough to keep it friendly. The head has been decked again, along with the block, so compression would be a little higher than normal, but not a great deal over standard. Just going for a solid performer, better than stock but nothing wild. I'll leave the wilder engine parts for the rally car.

Here is an Escort head before port and polishing:


And here is the head of this RS afterwards:



Pistons and rods are standard, with no plans to take the engine to stupid-rpm or put it on boost, no real need to change these. Same with the crank, solid unit, all good there. I inspected all these parts with the block to make sure they weren't a time bomb waiting to happen though.

At the moment, I'll probably get the engine running on the current distributor, but can see myself either putting in the dual point Mallory or buying the Crane Cams electronic ignition kit for it. I guess it depends how many problems I have woth the dizzy. If it works reliably, I'll run with it. I don't mind having old school parts in it, after all, it is a 1979 car and I like the classic nature of it.

In the same way, I'll also run the mechanical fuel pump until I have problems with it. I have so many around though, that I'll probably just swap in a new one, unless the car starts leaving me stranded miles from home. At the moment though, if it ain't broken...

I haven't sorted the exhaust yet, but the shop I get most automotive things I can't do at has done many Escorts before, the owner used to rally one a few years ago, so presumably a 4 into 2 into one extractors and out the rear, via a muffler or two.

Today I temporarily fitted the chrome rocker cover I havehere to the engine, but unsure of whether I like it or if I should put on a painted one. there are time and places for chrome, unsure if the engine bay of an Escort is one of them.



Now it's my turn for a question! Is there any disadvantage in running a Ford Z9 oil filter over the normal Z158? Both fit, and from what I can see, the Z9 is half the price. I realise the Z9 is a bigger capacity.

Cheers... Timmeh

I thought you bought ARGO rods for your motor.

great read mate!

whats estimate power are you aiming for, or expect to get?

cheers
rhys

quote:

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Originally posted by RS2000mk2
[br]great read mate!

whats estimate power are you aiming for, or expect to get?

cheers
rhys

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Well, any would be nice. I really don't know, we'll see when it's done. I guess I'm building it to the parts I want, I can't see it being massively more than standard. A bit of porting and polishing, bit of a cam and extractors, bigger Weber, so whatever you would expect from a fresh motor with those. I just don't have enough experience with Pintos to give any sort of a figure at all as to what to expect.

The car still got along ok before the rebuild, so if it's more than that, sweet action.

The rally car is where I am more interested in pulling as much power out as I can, chasing horsepower, as opposed to chasing a fun reliable package with this car.

The ring compressor worked fine for us?.

Interesting about oil filter numbers, if other people are using the Z9 I'll keep using it, as it's by far the cheapest filter available in the same brands range.

Timmeh

My old escort i had a blue rocker cover, my current one has a chrome one.. I must say i like the chrome, and i have various other parts chromed to match (extractors, pullys etc) and i think it looks quite good. I think the crome would suit your car..