Coilover 2.25 inch springs, where?

Hey guys,
 
Where is everyone sourcing there coilover srpings from? Local or uk? Prices?
I'm after some 2.25" springs, have yet to measure length in car but estimating 9-10 inches....  As for rates? mk1 escort with pinto turbo will be used for weekends hopefully trackdays.
Seems like a good variety and price here??? > http://stores.ebay.com.au/Motorsport-Tools-UK/Coilover-Springs-/_i.html?_fsub=388206419&_sid=87353699&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322
 
Also, have been given a set of unknown jap insets from a drifter mate.  Measuring them up they will fit my twink struts. They have 4 postion adjustable 'rebound'?? tops on them.
I'm not too familiar with all the suspension lingo and settings have never been in a position where I've needed or had it...
From playing around with them, it effects the speed at which the inserts 'return/extend' so I am guessing this is rebound????
 
Could someone please school me on the correct lingo and which settings are used for what.  I.e., benifits and when used etc.
 
Thanks guys,
 
Shaun
 
 

For springs motorsport-tools.com is a good place. There are 2 sizes as well depending how long your struts/shocks are too..
Most these days are saying for a strong engine escort for fast road, 220-250lb is a good starting point. Its firm, and good shocks are recommended.
 
Also Rebound is a word sometimes mis-represented on suspension products because the positive and negative (+ or -) can mean different things.
 
eg: you would think that turning more to the plus + would make it "more" springy or quicker rebound? 
But in fact it can mean that you are putting "more" rebound dampening, which in affect is the opposite of what i said above as it actually slows the rebound down and makes it less springy. 
It may be hard as you wont have a manual with your inserts, so i guess the only way is test them. Too slow and they'll may feel like they are wollowing over terrain changes, or too fast and it may tend to skip or not tract as well. 
A better way of labelling rebound dampening on products like shocks is to have like a Tortoise and the Hare. Obviously you can determine which is the faster and slower then a bit easier for us normal folk..

Something that may be of interest, I've raced a bit of downhill mountain bikes for some years now.. We use suspension forks and also rear shocks which have a huge amount of different adjustments, which can be set up amazingly well when you know what your looking for, or of course very badly by amateurs that don't.
 
Both fork and rear shock i have, each has the following adjustments:
- High speed compression (compression for big hits)
- Low speed compression (compression for small bump compliance, also helps control bottom out, fork dive, rear shock wallowing)
-  High speed rebound (how fast the second part of the shock stroke rebounds, usually set slower than low speed rebound, to fast it will spring you everywhere after a big jump or hit)
- Low speed rebound (initial bump rebound, usually fast to track ground well at speed)
- Bottom out (compression adjustment to stop blowing through all of travel)
- Air volume (similar to what the spring does but can be used as an over all compression/rebound)
- and also coil spring (has some amount of rebound but used to set sag %)

Not all bikes have the level of adjustment as above, its mainly only top end stuff.  And the dials only give a range of adjustment to what the shock internals have been shimmed for. As they are made for the mass market, they sometimes are then limited and need to be custom shimmed/tuned so you can reach the correct range of adjustment you are looking for.