Zetec ST170 / Escort Conversion

That flywheel is a Dual Mass Flywheel...common in late model manual cars

Yeh I thought the Black Top block and ST170 blocks were the same???

Dual Mass Flywheel designed to take the stress out of drivelines but in turn made a manual VT commodore more of a noisy shyt tin...

The poms love the ST170 VCT... they recon its worth it... test and tune i say

All the luck to ya we'll all be watching

pretty sure the thing on the side of the block is the knock sensor.

Was that a core/welch plug you bashed in to blank the dipstick? If so mind if i ask what diameter (The vern is a bit tricky to read in the photo) and where it came from? Likewise the spigot bearing?

A bit of progress on how I have done the Alternator and aux drive belt. I had to raid some spares but I'll talk you through it.
Firstly theres an idler pulley/tensioner assy common on the focus range.looks like this.



This will fit your standard escort alternator like so. I used this spacer behind the 'fan' on a spare alternator.


and put it on like this

then mounted the pulley with the washer and the original alternator nut like this , just be careful to centralise the washer before you tighten the nut. It grips pretty tight and should be fine in service.



Also had a crack at mounting the alterator using a bracket I fabricated





heres a trial fit.
I suppose you could buy one, but this was made out of scrap metal in few hours.







Next was the idler for the water pump, you should have this bracket.


and this idler pulley.


My solution starts like this. Hack that bracket to look like this.


then strip the idler and make a pulley


you will need an extra washer to space the pulley out like this.


I got some scrap angle iron and started on a bracket to mount of the alloy one I cut up earlier


lines are a bit wonky due to beer, rushing and care factor, I just want it running. drilled another hole to mount the idler pulley i made before now it looks like this.




All the while making the above. looking and using my calibrated eyeball to align the belts, maybe a ruler or two also.





Even had time to find a belt and try it on for size, (it took a few trips to the local) I am blessed with great local spares shop and a guy who understands, I often 'shop' for parts when I dont know the model length or type. 3 swapped belts later we are in business.



Alignment by calibrated eyeball.


Stay tuned for sump and engine mount action.

lol, good on ya for having a go yourself Tex.

Will enjoy watching your progress.

a bit more progress over the weekend, no wife or kids, yay, I mean I miss them.
Engine mounts fit ok on the st170 block although only using three bolts...





started mucking with the flywheel and clutch .
three clutches, std 1.8 focus (small spline) std 2ltr escort and my 4 puck. the 1.8 is about 3mm bigger in diameter than the pinto.



forget the st170 set up I am using the 1.8 focus blactop flywheel, modified like this, ring gear moved backwards by 14mm,( I hear 13mm works to) also got it redrilled to suit my old pinto pressure plate and got the dowels reset. All balanced ready to go on.



a small plug for one of my sponsors, good oil, and local.



Heres the ignition trigger setup on the inside of the flywheel,

Also checked the pickup was the same on the ST and the 1.8, Yes they are.


To keep those engines under control I have a trolley to move and store em, I support them like this, While I'm Sharing an all.
A tek screw does the job.


Started to strip the ST donk,
This little unpleasant individual was stuck on there good and proper,

Finally got it off.


then the oil pick up, and alloy sump bit.


A few differences, oil squirters under the pistons,


the rods dont look much beefier than the 1.8 but the fit and finish is out of sight. It was almost impossible to see the join where the caps meet the rods. Seriously. The bolts look substantial compared to the 1.8
ST rod, bolts, etc


1.8




The sump needs some extra holes to fully support, this is how I went about doing it.
First I mounted the Steel support bars provided with the Sump onto the block and used the Holes as guides for the 5mm holes needed for the M6 bolts I intend to use.


Do both ends while your at it and try your best to centrally locate the steel plate.





Then remove the steel plate and tap out the holes, For those who haven't used a tap before, its really easy on alloy and just remember to for every full turn in back it out half a turn to keep your thread true, straight and well formed.
The front is only about 4mm thick but I dont intend to overtighten the bolts, the back wont be a problem, lots of thread there, you could almost get away with a nut and bolt on the front, but its not the way I wanted to do it.



As you can see I got the block on its side on the bench, Make sure you tape up around where youre drilling and tapping to avoid metal in your engine.