﻿<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?><rss version="2.0"><channel><title>Kojab&amp;#39;s 1992 GT Hardtop Project</title><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/tm.aspx?m=139914</link><description /><copyright>(c) MR2 AUSTRALIA</copyright><ttl>30</ttl><item><title>Re: Kojab's 1993 GT Hardtop Project (kojab)</title><description>Thank you twomr2's your post was very helpful.&amp;nbsp; Explains the the empty socket and with regards "jumping the green/black wire to the pink/blue at the antenna plug"&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Under the dash I joined Pin1 pink/blue and Pin7 Black/red along with the blue Ant wire from the Andriod Head unit.&lt;br/&gt;Antenna now works fine.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Thanks again&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/144462</link><pubDate>Tue, 22 Sep 2020 11:55:18 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Kojab's 1993 GT Hardtop Project (twomr2`s)</title><description>cruise control,theft deterrent ecu and the rh rear abs sensor are all on that plug.&lt;br/&gt;if your car has or had the premium sound system with the 2 amps on the back left hand side then the antenna feed at the dash doesnt usually work,ive got mine to work by jumping the green/black wire to the pink/blue at the antenna plug in the boot&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/144459</link><pubDate>Mon, 21 Sep 2020 18:32:50 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Kojab's 1993 GT Hardtop Project (PocketRadzys)</title><description>Hard to tell 100% without taking off the plastic trim but on my car it feels like there is a similar long rectangular socket with nothing plugged in in that same spot. Mine's a JDM 90 GT hardtop.&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/144458</link><pubDate>Mon, 21 Sep 2020 17:09:58 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Kojab's 1993 GT Hardtop Project (kojab)</title><description>Just installed a 2 DIN Android stereo head unit and discovered the electric antenna does not work. Traced the wiring back to RAD &amp;amp; CIG Fuse 15 Amp.&amp;nbsp; Fuse was fine but no 12 Volts present at this fuse holder.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Then I noticed this white empty socket below the fuses.&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/download.axd?file=0;144457&amp;where=&amp;f=IMG_20200921_134322.jpg" target="_blank"&gt;&lt;img class="attachImg" src="https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/download.axd?file=0;144457&amp;where=&amp;f=IMG_20200921_134322.jpg" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Is this normal for a JDM 92 GT Hardtop?&amp;nbsp; The missing fuse in this picture is the RAD &amp;amp; CIG Fuse which along with other voltages feeds the electric antenna.&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/144457</link><pubDate>Mon, 21 Sep 2020 15:06:05 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Kojab's 1993 GT Hardtop Project (kojab)</title><description>&lt;a href="https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/download.axd?file=0;142150&amp;where=&amp;f=IMG_2045.JPG" target="_blank"&gt;&lt;img class="attachImg" src="https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/download.axd?file=0;142150&amp;where=&amp;f=IMG_2045.JPG" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Engine is in and running. Just finished installing Border A2A Intercooler&lt;br&gt;&amp;nbsp;and was very impressed with it's ability to to cool the boosted air. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Before fitting the Border (no intercooler) 10 PSI of boost was producing 68 degC of air&lt;br&gt;temperature.&lt;br&gt;Now with Border and the same 10 PSI the air temp does not increase, infact it actually&lt;br&gt;drops a deg. Big test will be when I up the boost to some where around 25 PSI.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Only just started tuning the new engine so have got along way to go.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;If anyone is interested I will put some collected data/logs up.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/142150</link><pubDate>Tue, 16 Apr 2019 09:19:31 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Kojab's 1993 GT Hardtop Project (Shaz)</title><description>Hey Richard.&amp;nbsp; I missed this until now.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Any updates?&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/142139</link><pubDate>Sat, 13 Apr 2019 19:53:05 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Kojab's 1993 GT Hardtop Project (stuka)</title><description>Good work Richard, looks like you are making good progress. I have done this same job a couple of times on my own and its all doable. I always seem to have trouble with the driver side engine mount, very fiddly but all works out eventually.&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Thats interesting approach with the hose from the thermostat housing to the turbo, havent seen that done before.&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/139955</link><pubDate>Sat, 23 Jun 2018 15:25:56 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Kojab's 1993 GT Hardtop Project (Lumix)</title><description>Thank you for sharing the build. I looking forward to seeing the car develop over the coming months.&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/139952</link><pubDate>Sat, 23 Jun 2018 08:35:47 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Kojab's 1993 GT Hardtop Project (kojab)</title><description>Nick: Thanks for the&amp;nbsp; "TCS Gen2 3SGTE Heat Shield link"&lt;br&gt;&amp;nbsp; &lt;br&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br&gt;Removing the rear cross member from my rolling shell was very difficult.&amp;nbsp; The four bolts had frozen solid. Could not budge them using my 1/2"drive with the longest bar.&amp;nbsp; Sprayed them as best I could with WD40 and let them soak but had my doubts that I got much penetrating fluid where it needed to be. Tried again an hour later and still no luck. I came to the conclusion that the original engine might have been disassembled in the shell probably removing the cylinder head and just about anything else to enable the block to be lifted out the top of the engine bay.&lt;br&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br&gt;There was no way I would attempt putting my new engine and gearbox in from the top. Probably impossible with the gearbox attached so back to getting these four cross member bolts free.&amp;nbsp; Extended my socket bar to double the length and with all my strength finally got them loose and out.&lt;br&gt;I was very relieved to find the threads on these four bolts where still in good condition. A good wire brushing to remove surface rust and a wash in kero brought them up good.&amp;nbsp; Will be using silver goop anti-seize on these four bolts when they go back in.&lt;br&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/download.axd?file=0;139951&amp;where=&amp;f=IMG_1993.JPG" target="_blank"&gt;&lt;img class="attachImg" src="https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/download.axd?file=0;139951&amp;where=&amp;f=IMG_1993.JPG" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br&gt;Engine ready to go in.&lt;br&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br&gt;I gave it a lot thought about how I was going to lift the SW20 shell without damaging the body and decided to pull it up with two chain blocks connected to the left and right engine mounts.&amp;nbsp; I had the two long bolts that normally go through the engine mounts available but hooking a chain block hook under one of these bolts would have the tendency to possibly bend the bolt and then distort the engine mount itself on the shell. To overcome this from happening I made up some solid round 1 inch dia spacers the width of the factory engine mounts, a hole through the middle to except the long bolts. Fit the original nut to the long engine mount bolt and tighten up with the new spacer in place and now we have very little chance of bending anything.&lt;br&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/download.axd?file=1;139951&amp;where=&amp;f=IMG_2014.JPG" target="_blank"&gt;&lt;img class="attachImg" src="https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/download.axd?file=1;139951&amp;where=&amp;f=IMG_2014.JPG" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br&gt;This engine balancer made it very easy to keep the engine/trans at the right angle for relocation back on its mounts.&lt;br/&gt;The two spacers I used to reinforce the engine mounts while lifting the SW20 shell high enough to get the engine/trans in place for installation.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/download.axd?file=2;139951&amp;where=&amp;f=IMG_1995.JPG" target="_blank"&gt;&lt;img class="attachImg" src="https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/download.axd?file=2;139951&amp;where=&amp;f=IMG_1995.JPG" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br&gt;Lifting SW20 shell.&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/139951</link><pubDate>Fri, 22 Jun 2018 20:43:28 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Kojab's 1993 GT Hardtop Project (Mrskylighter)</title><description>Here is a custom fabricated exhaust manifold heat shield that might work for you. Save you making one or using a stock gen 2 one. Would just need to coat it in your preferred finish.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;a href="https://www.tcsmotorsports.com/products/tcs-heat-shield" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" title="https://www.tcsmotorsports.com/products/tcs-heat-shield"&gt;https://www.tcsmotorsports.com/products/tcs-heat-shield&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/139948</link><pubDate>Thu, 21 Jun 2018 21:06:24 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Kojab's 1993 GT Hardtop Project (kojab)</title><description>First thanks to all that have commented with their observations and as stuka has said how things can sometimes get misinterpreted/misunderstood.&amp;nbsp; Its only after reading something many times that you realise what it was they were trying to explain. Fortunately for me I was able to speak with Falcon on the phone and we managed to get through a lot of my questions.&amp;nbsp; His knowledge like many on this forum is a real welcome to new comers to the MR2 engine like myself.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Stuka:&amp;nbsp; The black AN type elbow that is on the photo halfway between the stock oil filter location and the relocation kit is a coolant connection under the thermostat housing which runs to the back of the turbo.&lt;br/&gt;It can be seen much clearer in this link 10 photos down.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;a href="https://www.mr2australia.com/mr2play/tm.aspx?m=95558#95915" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" title="https://www.mr2australia.com/mr2play/tm.aspx?m=95558#95915"&gt;https://www.mr2australia.com/mr2play/tm.aspx?m=95558#95915&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/139947</link><pubDate>Thu, 21 Jun 2018 20:24:24 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Kojab's 1993 GT Hardtop Project (stuka)</title><description>Funny how things can sometimes get misinterpreted/misunderstood on the forums!&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Richard - the braided oil lines from the stock oil filter location (and oil cooler) to the relocation oil filter kit look like they are good quality and they wouldnt be coolant type pipes so all good. They look like they are orientated nicely away from that hot dump pipe. Doug's comment was a general comment about coolant lines, not your oil lines. The steel coolant pipes that Doug referred to look brand new, or else they were painted. But yes, check the rubber hoses to/from the oil cooler. They should be new and as they have really tight radius make sure they are not pinched or twisted after being installed.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;On the engine photo, whats is the black AN type elbow that on the photo is halfway between the stock oil filter location and the relocation kit?&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/139943</link><pubDate>Thu, 21 Jun 2018 12:56:13 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Kojab's 1993 GT Hardtop Project (Falcon)</title><description>KOJAB. My question was. Are you going to use the original oil to water cooler and if yes does it still have it's original water supply pipes ?? Gen2 draws water from back of block on flywheel end via a third steel pipe attached to the heater return pipe and the bypass pipe. It flows through HFH to the oil cooler and then through HFHOE to suction side of water pump. That is if I remember correctly!! That steel pipe is often in very poor condition with rust and can't flow properly which will limit the cooler's ability. There is also a nasty little 90 degree bolted joint from HFH to the entry of the cooler. This is also often in bad condition.&amp;nbsp; If all this has been replaced with flexible hose it might be an idea to check how it is attached to the cooler, water pump and back of block. And just make sure it does form a circuit.&lt;br/&gt;You are welcome to give me a phone call to have a yarn.&lt;br/&gt;Came across a swapped in BEAMS engine that had water hoses all arse about face to the extent that it was boiling it's guts out continuously. No circuit to open the thermostat!!!&amp;nbsp; Unbelievable.&amp;nbsp; Rooted it.&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/139941</link><pubDate>Thu, 21 Jun 2018 06:39:00 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Kojab's 1993 GT Hardtop Project (Falcon)</title><description>No Kris. I'm not looking for the OEM oil cooler.&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/139940</link><pubDate>Thu, 21 Jun 2018 05:11:40 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Kojab's 1993 GT Hardtop Project (5SGTE)</title><description>I am curious where the coolant returning the the thermostat housing is from though.  I&amp;#39;m assuming turbo.</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/139937</link><pubDate>Wed, 20 Jun 2018 14:00:03 GMT</pubDate></item></channel></rss>