new CT26 turbo

Re: new CT26 turbo (TwoDogs)

Thu, 17 Oct 2019 07:43:28 GMT

I don't know what it's like if your intercooler has collected a heap of oil from a bad turbo, but most of the smoke symptoms you described sound like engine problems to me. Especially things like after the engine sits for a while, then on startup gives a puff of blue, sounds like valve seals. Another symptom of valve seals is after engine braking for a corner as you drive out of the corner another puff of smoke, then nothing. Rings is under power up a hill, smoke more continuously. Head gasket...blue smoke is more like valve seals in that oil needs to be sucked in, ie throttle shut.

Re: new CT26 turbo (tuban)

Wed, 18 Sep 2019 09:25:40 GMT

Thanks Tony. And for the other suggestions. I need to sort out the oil in exhaust before going to wideband sensor, my exhaust seemed to foul the last w/b sensor that I had fitted so I went back to std one. I'm not even sure if it is working:-(

Re: new CT26 turbo (Guest)

Thu, 12 Sep 2019 21:02:21 GMT

Run it where mamba has it.

Monitor your boost pressure gauge vs actuator movement.

For the love of your mr2. Please regularly get your injectors out and ultrasonic cleaned and flow tested. Please invest in a wideband for air fuel rations especially if dialing up boost (just race parts - cheap for quality).

Re: new CT26 turbo (tuban)

Thu, 12 Sep 2019 18:09:01 GMT

Hi Guys, I'm back on the turbo horse! As per various suggestions I've had compression checked and pretty uniform and around 170psi. Plugs were grey, dry, not oiled. I've fitted a catch can as suggested earlier. Still smoking so I'm back to turbo and bought a $1200 Mamba turbo rather than mess around with rebuild. Came with a nice set of hoses. Which leads to my question. The wastegate actuator on my original CT26 has a pipe nipple on it which has a hose to a nipple early in the compressor snail path. The Mamba turbo has this point blanked off and a nipple way at the end of the compressor snail, just between the "CT26" label and the outlet. My Toyota CT26 didn't have any way to connect at this point but I noticed it seemed that the casting was thicker there, as if Toyota had allowed for this? Should I run the actuator hose to the point that Mamba seem to intend or switch back to the Toyota pressure point earlier in the snail. The forum doesn't easily allow me to add a pic, I don't know how to do this easily via URL, sorry. I've tried to get Mamba to reply but no luck.

Re: new CT26 turbo (Flyboy)

Wed, 03 Apr 2019 18:17:01 GMT

Have just edited my posts...I have a CT20b rev 3 Turbo not a 26...my bad.
Hope the advice is consistant with that alteration?

Re: new CT26 turbo (Flyboy)

Fri, 29 Mar 2019 23:58:41 GMT

Hmm...thought it would bolt right on " />
Is there a rebuild kit for my CT20b?
I'm going to have the motor fully rebuilt soon and I imagine the Turbo will need a refresh or a new one.

Re: new CT26 turbo (92 Hard Top)

Thu, 28 Mar 2019 11:25:34 GMT

I have done this already your up for some money.

Re: new CT26 turbo (Carmikey)

Wed, 27 Mar 2019 09:14:21 GMT

Flyboy
Any comments on the Garrett GT28 RS Disco Potato Turbo as a replacement for a CT26?

Potato is a great little replacement turbo, a lot better than the 26. Although they are not a direct fit replacement unit. You will have to change your intercooling pipework, that can be quite costly >$600 if having someone make / weld ally pipes for you.

Re: new CT26 turbo (Flyboy)

Wed, 27 Mar 2019 03:33:23 GMT

Any comments on the Garrett GT28 RS Disco Potato Turbo as a replacement for a CT20b?

Re: new CT26 turbo (Guest)

Thu, 29 Nov 2018 22:52:42 GMT

Take pipes / Intercooler out, use “petrol” to clean.

Re: new CT26 turbo (Xmr2)

Thu, 29 Nov 2018 22:46:45 GMT

Thanks again for the tips Tony... One of first things i did was to run catch can incase the blowby was spilling to much oil into my turbo, that didn't make a difference tho.
When i came to change my oil i couldn't undo the filter so i did undo the hot pipe from turbo to intercooler for better access and i did find oil and layer of sludge build up on the silicon connecting hoses....But then again i had the same issue on every turbo car ive owned in past.
Planning to take intercooler and pipes out and clean degrease everything.
When i changed oil to castrol edge 5-40 it seems a tad better but the issue is still very much there.
I will definitely try the upper engine cleaner as it sounds like great idea.

Re: new CT26 turbo (Guest)

Thu, 29 Nov 2018 07:14:16 GMT

Cheap, sometimes fix if you don’t already have in your maintenance routine, Subaru WRX dealership engine upper clearner spray. Have also used other auto store engine upper cleaners. Follow instructions of the required rpm (need two people),and spray spray spray. Read the instructions, as from memory a spray process, engine running, then off, then running.

Eaiest to get to is the hot pipe out of the turbo to Intercooler, see if there is oil residue in there (aka turbo seal), before going to the dump pipe trouble.

If you go down the path of turbo off, remove and clean out exhaust pipe as it could be something from the vehicles history, as a one off or built up from a very small issue, that now sits in the exhaust and then shows when hot. Best of luck,

Re: new CT26 turbo (Xmr2)

Wed, 28 Nov 2018 23:38:32 GMT

Thanks tony for your advice and insight into this matter..i will definitely dig into it a bit more before i pull the turbo out and will get it on dyno to make sure a/f ratios all good for piece of mind.
My smoking situation is a little diffrent to typical acceleration puff as it only smokes heaps visibly after the car has been driven hard or i done higway run or something.
in that situation i can smell the oil burn and i can see visible smoke while car is idling and taking off from stationary and if i take it easy for a bit the smoke becomes a lot less. Smoke colour is sort of grey colour and definitely not black or white.
Iam an amateur when it comes to this stuff but in my simple mind iam thinking that when the oil becomes hot and thin its getting through the not so perfect turbo seal and and coming out of the turbine side and burning off, or bad piston rings, but i was thinking if i have bad piston oil rings the smoking issue would be more consistant?
Anyhow i guess the process of elimination has to be done properly to narrow it down.was also thinking when i get off my lazy horse i pull the dump pipe off and see if there is visible oil on the turbine.
Anyways thanks for all the info and iam enjoying learning new things.

Re: new CT26 turbo (Guest)

Tue, 27 Nov 2018 10:16:07 GMT

Get the car to a mechanic with an air fuel sensor, many specialists mechanics around. Mr2 puff smoke from acceleration and suddenly let off of acceleration can be many things, blow by, over/unburnt fueling, wrong oil velocity, engine upper or exhaust collection, and all sorts of not critical reasons or simple fixes.

Turbos are a gamble regardless what you get unless new from a reputable Australian dealer.

Falcon Creations (aka twisted motion) turbos are popular through the Mr2 world. Cheap, highflow (just be careful on first runs to see if overboosting as some wastegate struggle to flowing enough with the bigger inducer and need to port the wastegate holes or different spring rate in the wastegate actuator).

Rebuilds, as in highflow as it’s similar cost to a standard rebuild however a lot of benefit, offer the advantage of being able to go back to the shop for warranty (not that turbo warrenty is all that full proof). Getting a turbo from kinigawa or other and what arrives regardless of shipping mishaps (visible or not) is what you are stuck with as shipping back costs defeats the exercise.

Re: new CT26 turbo (Xmr2)

Mon, 26 Nov 2018 23:50:06 GMT

I wonder if you still have the turbo in your car. Sorry to hear that it didn't turn out as good as hoped, but it was always gonna be a gamble.
Iam in same situation with my ct26 smoking when car is being pushed(hoping its turbo as i havent done compression or leakdown test yet).
I been thinking about the Kinugawa turbo with GT3071R wheel on ebay going for little over 1k...they seem to have better reviews from what ive seen. Not sure if there is any other bolt on options besides a second hand unit or rebuild wich would cost about the same.