﻿<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?><rss version="2.0"><channel><title>Redtop BEAMS - Terrible Low-end torque and dead spots in RPM range</title><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/tm.aspx?m=133615</link><description /><copyright>(c) MR2 AUSTRALIA</copyright><ttl>30</ttl><item><title>Re: Redtop BEAMS - Terrible Low-end torque and dead spots in RPM range (andezzat)</title><description>Haha yes. 100% that&amp;#39;s exactly what I&amp;#39;m doing :)</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/134704</link><pubDate>Sun, 12 Mar 2017 14:25:57 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Redtop BEAMS - Terrible Low-end torque and dead spots in RPM range (mister2)</title><description>Most important thing is to ensure the one you get is clearly for &lt;b&gt;(VVT-i) 3S-GE&lt;/b&gt; &lt;u&gt;&lt;b&gt;97.12〜99.10&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/u&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;If it's not for a&lt;b&gt; 97.12&lt;b&gt;〜&lt;/b&gt;99.10 NA engine with VVTI&lt;/b&gt;, it won't have a MAF mount on the intake pipe.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/134703</link><pubDate>Sun, 12 Mar 2017 12:57:34 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Redtop BEAMS - Terrible Low-end torque and dead spots in RPM range (andezzat)</title><description>Cool, even though it's the right part number for SARD... that's weird.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Anyhow, I'll chase after the 2nd one, it's probably the safer and cheaper option, straight from japan :)&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Let's hope Import Monster can help!&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/134702</link><pubDate>Sun, 12 Mar 2017 11:17:07 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Redtop BEAMS - Terrible Low-end torque and dead spots in RPM range (mister2)</title><description>The one on the first link is definitely NOT the right one. It's for earlier NA SW20's, which don't use a MAF.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;The second link is the right model &amp;gt; &lt;b&gt;SPORTS EX+ MR2 SW20(VVT-i) 3S-GE&lt;/b&gt; &lt;u&gt;&lt;b&gt;97.12〜99.10&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/u&gt;&lt;br/&gt;The mount in the photo still isn't what you should get with it though, but I assume that's because its a generic photo used for the SARD filters. The correct intake tube with the MAF mount will look like this. (The MAF is already mounted in this one.)&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;a href="https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/download.axd?file=0;134701&amp;where=&amp;f=1004.jpg" target="_blank"&gt;&lt;img class="attachImg" src="https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/download.axd?file=0;134701&amp;where=&amp;f=1004.jpg" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/134701</link><pubDate>Sun, 12 Mar 2017 10:57:22 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Redtop BEAMS - Terrible Low-end torque and dead spots in RPM range (andezzat)</title><description>So, I'll be buying the intake very soon.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;This is the cheapest I found so far:&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="http://www.nextgenautoparts.com/sard/sard-sport-ex-plus-intake/xa59340/i-166866.aspx" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" title="http://www.nextgenautoparts.com/sard/sard-sport-ex-plus-intake/xa59340/i-166866.aspx"&gt;http://www.nextgenautoparts.com/sard/sard-sport-ex-plus-intake/xa59340/i-166866.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;However, they're not showing all the parts that the intake package comes with, aka the blue MAF adapter as per this photo:&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81H8z2qFGdL._SL1500_.jpg" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" title="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81H8z2qFGdL._SL1500_.jpg"&gt;https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81H8z2qFGdL._SL1500_.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;I've asked them to confirm if those parts do come with their package, but is it safe to assume it should? Especially considering it's the 59340 package and description states it comes with an adapter.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;I've also bookmarked this from ages ago:&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="http://store.shopping.yahoo.co.jp/reducar/sard-59340-0.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" title="http://store.shopping.yahoo.co.jp/reducar/sard-59340-0.html"&gt;http://store.shopping.yahoo.co.jp/reducar/sard-59340-0.html&lt;/a&gt;&amp;nbsp;which looks like 100% the right intake, and I've asked Import Monster if they can help me import it, I couldn't find it via their browse feature.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Just wanting to double check that I'll be buying the right part haha. :)&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/134700</link><pubDate>Sun, 12 Mar 2017 10:20:00 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Redtop BEAMS - Terrible Low-end torque and dead spots in RPM range (andezzat)</title><description>&lt;blockquote class="quote"&gt;&lt;span class="original"&gt;mister2&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br&gt;To do a proper OEM intake &amp;quot;restore&amp;quot;, you would need every part in the diagram – except for the MAF (22204), which you&amp;#39;d already have, the pipe on the lower right (17752) which is totally unnecessary, and the airbox mounting plate (17851), which I would assume should still exist in your car.&lt;br&gt; &lt;br&gt;The bottom line is: Buying all these bits new will cost at least $1000, or maybe even a bit more. The main airbox alone is almost $650 from Amayama... and for the intake system to work properly, you really should have ALL the resonators and correct pipes. It&amp;#39;s a tuned system, and removing any of these bits will spoil that tuning.&lt;br&gt; &lt;br&gt;I&amp;#39;d suggest you get that SARD intake for the moment, then keep scanning yahoo auction in Japan (via Importmonster) until a second-hand OEM setup (hopefully) shows up.  I got mine that way, but I had to wait months to even see one listed.&lt;br&gt; &lt;br&gt;There&amp;#39;s a BEAMS equipped SW20 with a SARD intake for sale on Gumtreeright now – and this is how it has been fitted:&lt;br&gt; &lt;br&gt; &lt;br&gt; &lt;br&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Yeah that looks like the best option. And is what I had before but with a regular pod filter.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I&amp;#39;ll just do that and see how I go with the SARD.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Thanks again for the feedback everyone. :)</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/134159</link><pubDate>Tue, 31 Jan 2017 12:16:25 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Redtop BEAMS - Terrible Low-end torque and dead spots in RPM range (mister2)</title><description>To do a proper OEM intake "restore", you would need every part in the diagram – except for the MAF (22204), which you'd already have, the pipe on the lower right (17752) which is totally unnecessary, and the airbox mounting plate (17851), which I would assume should still exist in your car.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;The bottom line is: Buying all these bits new will cost at least $1000, or maybe even a bit more. The main airbox alone is almost $650 from Amayama... and for the intake system to work properly, you really should have ALL the resonators and correct pipes. It's a tuned system, and removing any of these bits will spoil that tuning.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;I'd suggest you get that SARD intake for the moment, then keep scanning yahoo auction in Japan (via Importmonster) until a second-hand OEM setup (hopefully) shows up.&amp;nbsp; I got mine that way, but I had to wait months to even see one listed.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;There's a BEAMS equipped SW20 with a SARD intake for sale on Gumtreeright now – and this is how it has been fitted:&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/134156</link><pubDate>Tue, 31 Jan 2017 10:43:58 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Redtop BEAMS - Terrible Low-end torque and dead spots in RPM range (antmcbane)</title><description>It doesn't hurt to ask, but availability is low. Also, I'm not sure exactly which parts you need - someone will have to chime in.&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/134153</link><pubDate>Mon, 30 Jan 2017 22:48:54 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Redtop BEAMS - Terrible Low-end torque and dead spots in RPM range (andezzat)</title><description>About a $1000? That&amp;#39;s obnoxious! Doubt it&amp;#39;s worth it. Rather try the SARD if that&amp;#39;s the case.</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/134150</link><pubDate>Mon, 30 Jan 2017 20:20:59 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Redtop BEAMS - Terrible Low-end torque and dead spots in RPM range (antmcbane)</title><description>The web ones are easier to search.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Here:&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/jp/1998/mr2/sw20-acpqf/4_211120_003_/tool-engine-fuel/1703_air-cleaner#17751" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" title="http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/jp/1998/mr2/sw20-acpqf/4_211120_003_/tool-engine-fuel/1703_air-cleaner#17751"&gt;http://www.japan-parts.eu...1703_air-cleaner#17751&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;I'm surprised they can get the pieces. At a guess i think you'd be looking at about $1000 for the parts to go OEM looking at some of the quotes in Amayama.&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/134149</link><pubDate>Mon, 30 Jan 2017 20:18:50 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Redtop BEAMS - Terrible Low-end torque and dead spots in RPM range (andezzat)</title><description>So I asked someone who sources MR2 parts and got this response and diagram. But have no idea what I actually need from it... Can someone please help out?&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&amp;quot;Hi Andrew, Sure we can assist with these parts, these are parts we would have to order in new for you, all of these parts are discontinued from toyota however i&amp;#39;ve contacted my supplier in Japan and they have confirmed they should be able to source most of them, I will be able to give a better indication on availability once I know exactly what you require here is a exploded diagram below this should hopefully look somewhat familiar to you 17881 is the elbow/ S shaped intake pipe you mentioned the air intake box was available in sections or as a complete assembly, the sectional availability is now completely sold out so it would need to be purchased as a complete assembly, &lt;br&gt;I am not sure if the MAF sensor is included in the complete airbox assembly given the part number is raised above the complete assembly i&amp;#39;d say it isn&amp;#39;t (although the price would suggest it should be) however it might be I can order the complete assembly in and if the MAF sensor isn&amp;#39;t there but required it can be ordered separately, it appears there is a resonator chamber which attaches to the main air intake and then 3 more resonator chambers and air intake duct pipes which I imagine are pre-air box if you let me know which parts off the diagram you require i&amp;#39;ll confirm availability and pricing for you, &lt;br&gt;Kind Regards&lt;br&gt;Josh&amp;quot;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Thanks guys! :)</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/134147</link><pubDate>Mon, 30 Jan 2017 19:39:24 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Redtop BEAMS - Terrible Low-end torque and dead spots in RPM range (andezzat)</title><description>@Reddtarga No I think the aim is to GET that to happen after I change the intake to something better for the engine!&lt;br&gt;That way the ECU noticed new readings and readjusts accordingly.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I can however see how that might be annoying for someone who might be constantly disconnecting the battery/power from their car without changing anything affecting performance.</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/133792</link><pubDate>Tue, 10 Jan 2017 16:36:33 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Redtop BEAMS - Terrible Low-end torque and dead spots in RPM range (Reddtarga)</title><description>My stock '90 model Gen2 NA does something similar.&lt;br/&gt;When I first start up after the battery has been disconnected&amp;nbsp;I notice that the idle speed is 300-400 rpm higher than normal, and&amp;nbsp;I have to drive it for about 10 mins before it settles down to idle normally.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;If you want to avoid that happening, you can get an attachment that is powered by a 9V battery&amp;nbsp;to plug in to the cigarette lighter before you disconnect the battery.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.ebay.com/bhp/memory-saver" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" title="http://www.ebay.com/bhp/memory-saver"&gt;http://www.ebay.com/bhp/memory-saver&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/133782</link><pubDate>Tue, 10 Jan 2017 09:16:11 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Redtop BEAMS - Terrible Low-end torque and dead spots in RPM range (mister2)</title><description>One other thing to be aware of:&amp;nbsp;Once your ECU has been disconnected or otherwise reset (by disconnecting the battery for example), it will take 10 or so minutes for it to "relearn" the operating conditions and begin behaving properly. Until then, the idle speed and fuel/air ratio will wander about... so don't freak out if you don't get instant results. You won't – and that's perfectly normal.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/133769</link><pubDate>Mon, 09 Jan 2017 19:25:34 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Redtop BEAMS - Terrible Low-end torque and dead spots in RPM range (andezzat)</title><description>That makes sense @mister2. I&amp;#39;ll update everyone once I get a hold of a SARD intake :)</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/133768</link><pubDate>Mon, 09 Jan 2017 18:05:52 GMT</pubDate></item></channel></rss>