New Owner

Re: New Owner (Carmikey)

Tue, 14 Mar 2017 09:09:03 GMT

dave
Maybe i just expect it to go faster than it does but i will find out when i get it tested

Your feelings are totally normal....NA's give reliability, nothing more.

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Re: New Owner (dave)

Tue, 14 Mar 2017 07:41:19 GMT

Maybe i just expect it to go faster than it does but i will find out when i get it tested

Re: New Owner (92 Hard Top)

Fri, 10 Mar 2017 13:42:00 GMT

You can get a high idle if your coolant system has a leek or has not had the air bleed out correctly as it creates an air lock around the idle control sensor which send the wrong signal to ECU. The ECU think the engine is running cooler, it gets more fuel, which gives higher revs at idle.

Re: New Owner (Reddtarga)

Fri, 10 Mar 2017 10:24:11 GMT

Dave you also say: "but is down on horsepower"
What makes you think that?

Re: New Owner (scz)

Fri, 10 Mar 2017 08:38:07 GMT

Welcome, dave.
Higher idle on cold is normal, but it should settle as the engine warms up. If the engine is staying cold, the thermostat may have been removed/bypassed.

Re: New Owner (dave)

Thu, 09 Mar 2017 11:16:25 GMT

It is non turbo i was going to put it in for a complete tune service and check but all the quotes i got were for around $800.00 i presume this was high because as you said they do not know anything about them and never worked on one.

Re: New Owner (dave)

Thu, 09 Mar 2017 11:09:50 GMT

No i did not touch the battery.When i got the car it idled on 1500 the previous owner said just hit the accelerator and it will idle properly but this did not happen it seemed to fix itself. It now idles on around 800 but if the weather is a bit colder it will idle on a thousand i wonder what will happen in winter that is why i am trying now to find out what is going on.

Re: New Owner (Falcon)

Thu, 09 Mar 2017 11:07:03 GMT

Welcome to the forum.
It's a pretty straight forward job to recondition it yourself.
Is it NA or Turbo? How do you know it lacks power?
Do a proper hot compression check and post the figures.
Check ignition timing as described in BGB.
At that mileage it's very likely just plain worn but you never know.
Maybe someone reconditioned it already and it will respond to some
new ignition components etc.
As to expense. No not really too bad for parts costs.
Do some shopping around before you purchase though.
Some parts are best to stick to genuine Toyota.
There are sources outside Toyota Dealerships though.
Whatever you do don't put it in to a Stealership.
They have probably never seen one let alone know anything about them.

Re: New Owner (Reddtarga)

Thu, 09 Mar 2017 11:00:00 GMT

High idle:
Did you disconnect the battery?
If so, the ECU looses it's settings.
When you reconnect it, I find on my car the idle speed will be high, but it corrects itself after a few km when the CPU 're-learns' the settings.

Re: New Owner (dave)

Wed, 08 Mar 2017 11:34:09 GMT

Thankyou everyone for replying and for your advice with the wheels now balanced correct tyre pressures and a wheel alignment there are no shakes at all it runs beautiful.I had another problem high idling it now idles at the correct revs i have no idea if this changed because of the car being used everyday now or dare i say it the hot weather.This car has 298 thousand on the clock i bought it because of its pristine condition inside and out it starts and runs well but is down on horsepower is an engine rebuild expensive and is it a job i can do myself

Re: New Owner (Reddtarga)

Mon, 28 Nov 2016 15:35:22 GMT

+1 for a read of http://www.mr2australia.com/mr2play/tm.aspx?m=70521&high=oversteer
Very important info for people new to MR2's.

Re: New Owner (stuka)

Mon, 28 Nov 2016 12:17:42 GMT

Welcome Dave, responses above are correct.
Given you have just bought the car and dont know its maintenance history, bring it to a good tyre shop who can check wheel balance, alignment etc. Its not like you have bought a corolla, these are a performance car and owners often 'play' with them, often with negative effects.

This is also worth a read http://www.mr2australia.com/mr2play/tm.aspx?m=70521&high=oversteer

Re: New Owner (Reddtarga)

Mon, 28 Nov 2016 10:22:20 GMT

G'day Dave, and welcome to the MR2 community.

Steering wheel shake at constant speed:
Maybe first of all have the wheels properly balanced, as well as checking the front wheel bearings, ball joints, and track rod ends for any play/slack.

If you have aftermarket wheels, they may need concentric hub rings to center the wheels properly. Tight fitting metal ones are best.
When fitting mag wheels, to ensure even wheel clamping the wheel nuts should only be tightened using the so called ‘star’ pattern, first in a couple of passes, then finally tightening with an accurate torque wrench. (I use 80 ft/lbs)

Hub runout:
Assuming all the above items have been taken care of and you still have steering wheel shake, the next thing to do would be to check the front hubs for excessive runout that may have happened after a front end collision or a wheel hitting the curb at some stage. That could cause the hub/rotor/wheel rotating assembly to be out of balance.

Steering wheel shake that only happens during braking is probably caused by unevenly worn rotors.

Re: New Owner (dennis the menace)

Mon, 28 Nov 2016 09:37:06 GMT

Dave, there are a number of possible causes. Wheel balance, suspension play, warped rotors, etc., etc.,
Where are you located? How mechanically inclined are you?
There are plenty of knowledgeable people here ready and willing to help out - Welcome Aboard!

Re: New Owner (Shaz)

Mon, 28 Nov 2016 09:18:32 GMT

I had a similar thing with my rego/build date. I was told it was a 91, the rego papers said 91. Not long after I got it, I'd gone to buy something & was asked "is it early 91 or late 91" because apparently that made a difference. When I had a look & found the build plate, it was actually August 90. I remember one website not even having 90 as an available option. (I think one of the CTP websites).