﻿<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?><rss version="2.0"><channel><title>SW20 with Red Top BEAMS - S54 Grinds</title><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/tm.aspx?m=129479</link><description /><copyright>(c) MR2 AUSTRALIA</copyright><ttl>30</ttl><item><title>Re: SW20 with Red Top BEAMS - S54 Grinds (andezzat)</title><description>Awesome.&lt;br/&gt;Thanks Mister2.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;I made the right call and ordered the 31115A, but only one, as the right side was dry as a bone.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;I already made the order through Toyota for $16, it's worth it considering I am picking it up tomorrow morning!&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Thanks once again for confirming this.&lt;br/&gt;I'll let you all know how it goes.&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/130481</link><pubDate>Mon, 11 Jul 2016 19:52:45 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: SW20 with Red Top BEAMS - S54 Grinds (mister2)</title><description>31115A is the axle shaft seal… and you need two if you're going to do both sides.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;a href="https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/9031130006" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" title="https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/9031130006"&gt;90311-30006&lt;/a&gt;&amp;nbsp;is the original Toyota part number (for the S54 transmission, not the E153 from the GT/Turbo).&lt;br/&gt;They now have two updated numbers for the same seal which is &lt;a href="https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/9031130017" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" title="https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/9031130017"&gt;9031130017&lt;/a&gt;&amp;nbsp;and/or &lt;a href="https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/9031130017" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" title="https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/9031130017"&gt;9031130019&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;You can order them from Amayama for under $5 each, or get an equivalent Febest seal off eBay:&lt;br/&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OIL-SEAL-AXLE-CASE-35X55X9X15-TOYOTA-MR2-SW20-1990-1995-90311-35019-/171855815662?hash=item280367a3ee:g:skkAAOSwMmBVojUd" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" title="http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OIL-SEAL-AXLE-CASE-35X55X9X15-TOYOTA-MR2-SW20-1990-1995-90311-35019-/171855815662?hash=item280367a3ee:g:skkAAOSwMmBVojUd"&gt;http://www.ebay.com.au/it...3ee:g:skkAAOSwMmBVojUd&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/130479</link><pubDate>Mon, 11 Jul 2016 19:29:15 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: SW20 with Red Top BEAMS - S54 Grinds (andezzat)</title><description>So here's another update.&lt;br/&gt;The S54 has been leaking, and it's very possible it's the seals for the output shafts.&lt;br/&gt;I've totally sealed the bottom drain plug for the gearbox fluid, I thought it was the cause because it appeared to be weeping, but upon further inspection, I noticed the leak is likely to have been coming from up top (the output shaft), or both even. Anyhow.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;I'm not 100% sure on the part #, and I'm not 100% sure on the process used.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Can anyone direct me to a guide that is fairly accurate for the MR2.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;I was told to replace the output shaft seal (picture of leak/problem area attached), and from looking around, I've found 2 different things that I can buy, but I need to confirm the part #s first.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;The 31115A looks like the correct seal, can anyone confirm?&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Thanks for your help so far everyone.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Pictures:&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="http://imgur.com/a/DpGTl" target="_blank" rel="nofollow"&gt;http://imgur.com/a/DpGTl&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/130472</link><pubDate>Mon, 11 Jul 2016 14:30:43 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: SW20 with Red Top BEAMS - S54 Grinds (andezzat)</title><description>100% agree Carmikey.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;My mate has a good S54 box that I've tested myself in his car, absolutely fine. It's from a 91 MR2, so a bit older.&lt;br/&gt;Anyhow, he said when he changes his gearbox to an E153, he can give me his for $500, drive in, drive out, labour inc. and all.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Which I think is a decent price considering he knows what's up.&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/129835</link><pubDate>Sun, 05 Jun 2016 16:13:14 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: SW20 with Red Top BEAMS - S54 Grinds (Carmikey)</title><description>&lt;blockquote class="quote"&gt;&lt;span class="original"&gt;xez&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br/&gt;You probably just need to replace the synchros, maybe only just 2nd and 3rd. Should be cheaper than replacing the whole gearbox...&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;br&gt;I'd disagree on that... you can pick up good condition S54 boxes for under $400, even if you were to rebuild it yourself, you would spend well over that price. Just my 2cents worth.&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/129764</link><pubDate>Thu, 02 Jun 2016 08:56:21 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: SW20 with Red Top BEAMS - S54 Grinds (xez)</title><description>You probably just need to replace the synchros, maybe only just 2nd and 3rd...&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/129761</link><pubDate>Thu, 02 Jun 2016 08:32:19 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: SW20 with Red Top BEAMS - S54 Grinds (andezzat)</title><description>UPDATE:&lt;br&gt;Been driving for about 500kms+ now on ATF DEXRON III as recommended by Falcon.&lt;br/&gt;Downshifting into 3rd is much better, it's SLIGHTLY notchy, but bearable in most cases indeed.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;I'm having issues upshifting into 2nd though. When I rev past 4000rpm or so, and try get into second, it's very tough to get into. If I rev out all the way to 6/7000rpm and try powershift to 2nd, forget it, it WILL GRIND.&lt;br/&gt;YES, I am depressing the clutch fully.&lt;br/&gt;YES, I am keeping it depressed till I shift into 2nd, then letting go of said clutch.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;I tried WAITING (although I shouldn't have to) for the revs to fall into the right spot for 2nd gear, but it STILL struggles to engage without minor grinds and notchiness, it will only engage till revs are 1.5k rpm ish where 2nd gear WOULD be at said speed. Of course that means when I let the clutch out by that point, then the engine will have to compensate for the low revs and bump it up to whatever will match the road speed on 2nd gear. *sigh*&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;It's just stupid.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;I don't know what to do, might have to get a different gearbox. I'll finish up this tank of fuel and hit 1,000kms and see how I go.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Big thanks to Falcon!&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/129750</link><pubDate>Wed, 01 Jun 2016 17:31:03 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: SW20 with Red Top BEAMS - S54 Grinds (Knightrous)</title><description>An older mechanic once said to me.&lt;br/&gt;"Oils don't fix synchronisers. Oils fix oil problems"&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Basically if it has &amp;nbsp;a synchroniser issue (worn or damaged), oils will not rebuild them or repair them. A different oil will however fix an oil problem, where the is additional wear or impairment caused by the use of wrong or old oil.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;TL;DR: If it needs a rebuild, you gotta rebuild it.&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/129593</link><pubDate>Fri, 27 May 2016 11:59:22 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: SW20 with Red Top BEAMS - S54 Grinds (artymr2)</title><description>Or you could just leave the ATF in there. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;So many views on oils, you have quite a few choices. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Cheers</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/129588</link><pubDate>Fri, 27 May 2016 00:43:40 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: SW20 with Red Top BEAMS - S54 Grinds (andezzat)</title><description>&lt;blockquote class="quote"&gt;&lt;span class="original"&gt;Falcon&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Yes. That is the correct stuff.&amp;nbsp; Fill with that and drive it for a few hundred km.&amp;nbsp; Take note whether the gear shifting improves.&amp;nbsp; IF it does I will then recommend&amp;nbsp;another GL4 oil for you to try.&lt;br/&gt;I have managed to save two gearboxes that had been playing up after using bloody GL5 oil.&amp;nbsp; Ive had several more that did NOT improve and had to be stripped and reconditioned.&lt;br/&gt;Pay close attention to the clutch to check that it is fully disengaging as it can cause a lot of harm to the syncros.&lt;br/&gt;You can PM me if you need to know how to check the clutch operation.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br/&gt;I've sent you 2 PMs, they don't show in my sent messages...&lt;br/&gt;I hope you received them.&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/129541</link><pubDate>Wed, 25 May 2016 15:24:21 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: SW20 with Red Top BEAMS - S54 Grinds (andezzat)</title><description>Thanks so much guys.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;I've only driven it for barely anything right after the oil change, it's still pretty ****ty. Rev matching in neutral is fine though, like butter.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Falcon I'll PM you, I'm a bit of a noob.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Reddtarga, I read bits of that article before, it's pretty interesting. Thank you for mentioning it anyway.&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/129540</link><pubDate>Wed, 25 May 2016 15:15:02 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: SW20 with Red Top BEAMS - S54 Grinds (Reddtarga)</title><description>andezzat, I hope you have good luck with your synchros, and you may be interested in this:&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf" target="_blank" rel="nofollow"&gt;http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/129531</link><pubDate>Wed, 25 May 2016 10:26:48 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: SW20 with Red Top BEAMS - S54 Grinds (Falcon)</title><description>Yes. That is the correct stuff.&amp;nbsp; Fill with that and drive it for a few hundred km.&amp;nbsp; Take note whether the gear shifting improves.&amp;nbsp; IF it does I will then recommend&amp;nbsp;another GL4 oil for you to try.&lt;br/&gt;I have managed to save two gearboxes that had been playing up after using bloody GL5 oil.&amp;nbsp; Ive had several more that did NOT improve and had to be stripped and reconditioned.&lt;br/&gt;Pay close attention to the clutch to check that it is fully disengaging as it can cause a lot of harm to the syncros.&lt;br/&gt;You can PM me if you need to know how to check the clutch operation.&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/129523</link><pubDate>Wed, 25 May 2016 03:39:31 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: SW20 with Red Top BEAMS - S54 Grinds (andezzat)</title><description>&lt;blockquote class="quote"&gt;&lt;span class="original"&gt;Falcon&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br/&gt;empty out whatever is in there and refill with DEXRON 3.Auto Trans Fluid. (Penrite have excellent products).&lt;br/&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Is this it?&lt;br/&gt;autobarn(dot)com.au/penrite-atf-dxiii-4-ltr-atfdx3004&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/129521</link><pubDate>Tue, 24 May 2016 21:16:37 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: SW20 with Red Top BEAMS - S54 Grinds (andezzat)</title><description>Just spoke to the previous owner.&lt;br/&gt;He said GL-5 is what Toyota recommends.&lt;br/&gt;RIP.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Here is prayer the syncros haven't given up on me... yet.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;EDIT: He searched up the wrong gearbox: E153... sigh.&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/129520</link><pubDate>Tue, 24 May 2016 21:09:24 GMT</pubDate></item></channel></rss>