﻿<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?><rss version="2.0"><channel><title>WIP - Comprehensive Aussie 2GR Swap Guide</title><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/tm.aspx?m=127460</link><description /><copyright>(c) MR2 AUSTRALIA</copyright><ttl>30</ttl><item><title>Re: WIP - Comprehensive Aussie 2GR Swap Guide (metal_man007)</title><description>&lt;blockquote class="quote"&gt;&lt;span class="original"&gt;Eric&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;All 2GR’s in Australia come with a Water –to-Oil Oil cooler. I imagine this is due to the adverse climate conditions. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;This isn't entirely true; the 08/2008 RAV4 engine I just bought does not have an OEM oil cooler.&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;I'll add a few posts as I go with information that isn't readily available.&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Cheers&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/143049</link><pubDate>Sat, 26 Oct 2019 19:36:36 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: WIP - Comprehensive Aussie 2GR Swap Guide (rt46cars)</title><description>Great write up, I have a TRD Aurion with&amp;nbsp;Supercharged 2GR-FZE that I track. My long game is to get a MK2 MR2 turbo to drop the engine into. I need all the help I can get.&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Thanks.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/139217</link><pubDate>Mon, 19 Mar 2018 19:08:17 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: WIP - Comprehensive Aussie 2GR Swap Guide (Eric)</title><description>&lt;blockquote class="quote"&gt;&lt;span class="original"&gt;triptek&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Quick question, how did you guys go about fitting the large aurion ecu connector through the factory firewall hole into the boot.&amp;nbsp; Does the connector come apart, as i don't see any other way apart from enlarging the hole.&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Hey Triptek,&amp;nbsp;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The slider and lever actually come off the plug. If you then fold the wires so they are flush against the plug, you can JUST fit it though.&amp;nbsp;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Hope this help,&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Eric&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/132248</link><pubDate>Tue, 04 Oct 2016 21:38:44 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: WIP - Comprehensive Aussie 2GR Swap Guide (triptek)</title><description>Quick question, how did you guys go about fitting the large aurion ecu connector through the factory firewall hole into the boot.&amp;nbsp; Does the connector come apart, as i don't see any other way apart from enlarging the hole.&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/132247</link><pubDate>Tue, 04 Oct 2016 19:09:48 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: WIP - Comprehensive Aussie 2GR Swap Guide (Eric)</title><description>&lt;blockquote class="quote"&gt;&lt;span class="original"&gt;bvosloo&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Hi Eric&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;I am finishing of an 2013 2gr swop, how did you wire your fuel pump? I would like to use the FPC signal from the ECU.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Regards&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Ben&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Hi Ben,&amp;nbsp;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I'm sorry, I didnt do the complete wiring for my swap. Only bits and pieces.&amp;nbsp;&lt;br&gt;I'll see if I can find anything.&amp;nbsp;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Cheers,&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/128974</link><pubDate>Tue, 26 Apr 2016 10:07:32 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: WIP - Comprehensive Aussie 2GR Swap Guide (bvosloo)</title><description>Hi Eric&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;I am finishing of an 2013 2gr swop, how did you wire your fuel pump? I would like to use the FPC signal from the ECU.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Regards&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;Ben&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/128889</link><pubDate>Mon, 18 Apr 2016 20:38:57 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: WIP - Comprehensive Aussie 2GR Swap Guide (WHITBO)</title><description>Some notes from my conversion:-&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Yep - the right side lower control arm bolt will not go in (Gen3 Bathurst). Found out the hard way you need to lower the cross member to get the bugger in!!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Fuel line :- my 2GRFE came with the OE plastic push-in fitting to the fuel rail and a plastic locking clip so no mods to the fuel rail were required.  I simply used 5/16" Goodyear fuel injection hose to connect to this.  Aeroflow 6AN fittings with 5/16" barbs used on a Fuelab 515 regulator mounted where the MR2 coil used to be. The return hose runs to the existing MR2 hard line, which doesn't need any fittings at all apart from a clamp. Finally, a banjo fitting with 5/16 barb was used to a standard fuel filter (new one of course!). Good quality stainless steel clamps were used on all connections. I'm currently running 40 psi with an Aeromotive 11141 fuel pump which seems to run very quiet.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Gearbox: - I bought a banged up 1996 Camry Vienta with the 3vzfe V6 for $500 and removed the manual gearbox and flywheel. I had also bought MR2 Turbo hubs, drive shafts and gearbox (since I was starting with a NA Bathurst). A hybrid box was built using the bellhousing and internal gears/diff from the Vienta, and the rear casing and selectors from the MR2 Turbo. The Vienta bell housing has more bolts that line up with the 2GRFE, and the taller gearing suits the 2GRFE but of course the Vienta rear casing has the selectors on the wrong side.  Hence the MR2 Turbo rear casing fixes this. However, as the Road and Track write up says, you can't just simply swap the rear casings. You need to adjust the pre-loads on the diff and output shaft by using different thickness shims.....a bit of a long process. The 3vzfe flywheel just needed machining to clean up the face and it bolted up to the 2grfe. I later sold the rest of the Vienta to the scrap metal guys for $250!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Heatshields :- I replaced the standard steel shield with DCI SheetHot 400 aluminium. It gives a lot more room around the motor.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Exhaust :- 2 inch merging into 2 1/2 inch through a 100 cell cat, and a Magnaflow universal muffler. Quieter than the original OE NA muffler at cruising speed, but a good growl when you sink the boot. Pics attached when we were tack welding it up. Note there is no O2 bungs in at this stage&lt;br&gt; &lt;br&gt;Serpentine Belt - this is whats running on my motor - someone might find this number useful : Gates 7PK1580</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/127730</link><pubDate>Sun, 21 Feb 2016 21:42:41 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: WIP - Comprehensive Aussie 2GR Swap Guide (Eric)</title><description>Updated electrical section with some part numbers&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/127689</link><pubDate>Fri, 19 Feb 2016 16:13:27 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: WIP - Comprehensive Aussie 2GR Swap Guide (TomsMR2)</title><description>This style Corolla pedal &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.ebay.com.au/ulk/itm/260967689447" target="_blank" rel="nofollow"&gt;http://www.ebay.com.au/ulk/itm/260967689447&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;And I would buy it now, that is very cheap!!!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The only mod you have to do is move the plastic pad of the pedal up about 30mm on the rod</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/127587</link><pubDate>Sun, 14 Feb 2016 12:53:39 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: WIP - Comprehensive Aussie 2GR Swap Guide (Knightrous)</title><description>&lt;blockquote class="quote"&gt;&lt;span class="original"&gt;TomsMR2&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br&gt;Is this on the later revision subframe?&lt;br&gt;I don't recall this being an issue and I have the older version&lt;br&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;br&gt;I believe the cross member is a gen 3 item. Adrian can confirm.&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/127585</link><pubDate>Sun, 14 Feb 2016 10:52:21 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: WIP - Comprehensive Aussie 2GR Swap Guide (Highlander)</title><description>Any particular model Corolla pedal? Keen to do this as my accelerator pedal is actually higher than the brake pedal.&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/127583</link><pubDate>Sun, 14 Feb 2016 08:37:37 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: WIP - Comprehensive Aussie 2GR Swap Guide (TomsMR2)</title><description>Is this on the later revision subframe?&lt;br&gt;I don&amp;#39;t recall this being an issue and I have the older version</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/127582</link><pubDate>Sun, 14 Feb 2016 07:16:58 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: WIP - Comprehensive Aussie 2GR Swap Guide (Knightrous)</title><description>Discovered a small trick tonight while helping Adrian with his swap.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;You cannot fit or remove the drivers side lower control arm bolt from the sub frame while the motor is bolt in. You must lower the sub frame to remove/install the bolt, otherwise the sump and block prevent the bolt from aligning.&lt;br/&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;img src="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/18577553/SW20/LCAbolt.jpg" /&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;i&gt;And no, moving the washer and cable out of the road doesn't give you enough space ;)&lt;/i&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/127580</link><pubDate>Sun, 14 Feb 2016 01:34:41 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: WIP - Comprehensive Aussie 2GR Swap Guide (TomsMR2)</title><description>It has been said that the alloy pedal adapter that comes in Goukys kit will not work in RHD cars&lt;br&gt;This is in part true because most people try to use the pedal from the donor car&lt;br&gt;If you use the pedal from a corolla the adapter is quite easy to modify with one extra hole being drilled and it gets pedal to exactly the same position as the original&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href="http://s738.photobucket.com/user/juno53/media/Mobile%20Uploads/E86BC26C-6D9D-46B1-B4EB-8047AF752633_zpsxzrm902w.jpg.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" title="http://s738.photobucket.com/user/juno53/media/Mobile%20Uploads/E86BC26C-6D9D-46B1-B4EB-8047AF752633_zpsxzrm902w.jpg.html"&gt;&lt;img src="http://i738.photobucket.com/albums/xx25/juno53/Mobile%20Uploads/E86BC26C-6D9D-46B1-B4EB-8047AF752633_zpsxzrm902w.jpg" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Aurion pedal top&lt;br&gt;Corolla pedal middle&lt;br&gt;Modified Gouky adapter bottom&lt;br&gt;The mounting bolt pattern on the Corolla pedal is reversed so bolts right up to the adapter</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/127520</link><pubDate>Wed, 10 Feb 2016 00:05:05 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: WIP - Comprehensive Aussie 2GR Swap Guide (Eric)</title><description>Thanks Peter, post has been updated with findings!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;This is what I like to see with contributions. If anyone has any wiring diagrams they have done etc please post them. Theres so much out there for the US with regards to wiring but not for the Australian market!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I want to make this easier for everyone.&lt;br/&gt;</description><link>https://www.classic-ford.org/mr2/mr2play/FindPost/127499</link><pubDate>Tue, 09 Feb 2016 10:15:55 GMT</pubDate></item></channel></rss>