Joes NEW Grey Beast

Re: Joes NEW Grey Beast (5SGTE)

Mon, 10 Dec 2018 14:20:48 GMT

Nice shoes. I had a -6 welded to the original fitting. Works mint and is safe. I can get a pic if you like, it's not currently in use.

Re: Joes NEW Grey Beast (Carmikey)

Mon, 10 Dec 2018 13:09:54 GMT

Joe, regarding the fuel line connection... why don't you just fix it properly? Don't forgot mate, it's fuel you are playing fire with.

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Re: Joes NEW Grey Beast (Falcon)

Mon, 10 Dec 2018 12:46:48 GMT

Regarding that high pressure fuel line from tank to filter. If you undo it again and slide a length of plastic / rubber hose well along it and tighten the union again. Then slide the plastic hose back right over the union.
If the union does leak it won't spray a fine mist out just ready to be ignited. It will just drip to the ground so you will know to fix it.
Good progress. Thanks for writing it up for us.

Re: Joes NEW Grey Beast (Randomity)

Sun, 09 Dec 2018 23:07:22 GMT

As previously mentioned, the engine came out as well.

Everything came off, I found myself in possession of a few new tools as part of the process, as usual...

Water pump was gross, and binned immediately.
Oil pump was in good condition, but leaking, so new one while it's out, may as well upgrade! It was rebuilt with the short block build, but leaked oil immediately, although I'm not 100% sure of that was the builder not tensioning it up or not. Doesn't matter. It went in the bin, too.

5S oil pump with 3S pulley went in.
On a side note, the 5S pump requires a small amount of modification to fit, in that the timing belt fouls on a small protrusion on the pumps surface. A die grinder will fix it, but if you don't have one, there's a few ways to remove it...

From memory, this will yield something like 15-20% more oil over factory. Which is very considerable!
Correct me of I'm wrong, though. I've made mistakes this like before

While everything was off, it was worth taking some time to make my engine actually look good!

Some masking off and wrinkle paint and this is the result.

Turned out pretty good!

Timing cover and intake manifold also got a few coats, to make it look the part

And here it is, back together again and ready to go in. Looking much nicer than it did before.
Hopefully it'll be functional too!

Lastly, here's the engine in the car. It went in yesterday and is hanging by 2 mounts for now.
There's plenty to do while it's in this state, so I won't be chucking the subframe and front mounts on yet.

Lets see how much progress we can get over Christmas. The new engine loom is going to become a priority soon, but with limited funds, it may just have to wait until the new year.

Either way, it's good to have the engine where it belongs and not taking up space in my tiny garage!

Re: Joes NEW Grey Beast (Randomity)

Sun, 09 Dec 2018 22:55:32 GMT

So the last 6 weeks has been pretty busy.

The engine came out, new oil and water pumps ordered and installed (went 5S oil pump, using stock 3S Pulley), and have done various other bits and pieces which I'll delve into a bit more detail below:

New location for the charge cooler water pump. This is using the original air-con expansion chamber mount and a custom bracket (read: 25mm box section + angle grinder). This is nice and out of the way and will keep all water carrying lines out of the frunk minus the stock coolant lines.

Routing the lines themselves is the next task, I'll work that out soon.

New Radiator.
2 core ally, ebay special, $190 including a couple of tiny termofans.
Once the car's running, I'll test out the temps and work out if it's worth making a shroud for it or not

Here it is mounted to the car.
despite being an "SW20 Radiator" it didn't quiiiiite bolt right up. The OEM mounting brackets up top had a bit of a gap, so a bit of cut up silicone joiner padded that out and it fits nicely.
The black squares are the mounting kit for the fans, and will be hidden by the charge cooling heat exchanger once I remount that.

The engine loom wiring left a lot to be desired. I've developed a process that seems to work for me though.
1. Come up with an idea
2. Make it happen
3. Once it works, make it look good.

I have applied this logic to the boot.

New fuse box incoming!

This wiring is as of today, I finished it about 20 mins before writing this post. The box is clearly far too large, but it's allowing for expansion should I need it down the track.

I also had the GENIUS idea of writing down what each wire does as I went this time, so I could actually tell you the function of each one without guessing!

ECU has finally been mounted to the firewall as well, to stop it flapping about. When I do the new loom, I'll run the MAP line with the wiring to keep it tidy as well, and ensure it's protected from the elements as well.

Lastly, the fuel tank came out. This is obviously necessary as per my previous post, the fuel pump had had it.

Turns out it looks like it was the original pump from 1992! Definitely needed to be replaced.
In went a Walbro 255lph e85 compatible pump.
It took an extra 2 weeks to get the tank in as I have also replaced every single soft line not easily accessible with the engine in the car with hose that'll handle ethanol as I REALLY don't want to drop the tank out again.

when the tank went back in, I noticed a coolant leak...

I'm hoping that these cracking and leaking doesn't become a tradition for my MR2's as it's the 2nd time I've had to do this on one of my cars.
$40 later at the nearest local radiator shop, they were both checked over, one small crack was found and repaired, and every single mount reinforced so I never have to pull them out again.

Lastly for this chapter, not a particularly exciting photo, but this is the feed line from the fuel tank to the fuel filter.
I spent AGES finding a fitting the same thread pitch as the OEM male line (M14X1.5 fyi), and ordered an adapter from that in female to a male -6AN fitting. Only to find that it didn't fit, and that the -6AN female fit perfectly.
This isn't a guaranteed seal, so stay tuned to watch me drop the heat shields to remove this line because it leaks or something...

More photos to come shortly

Re: Joes NEW Grey Beast (Knightrous)

Mon, 22 Oct 2018 09:13:46 GMT

Consider looking at the modern Walbro 430 fuel pump which was designed with E85 in mind.

Re: Joes NEW Grey Beast (Falcon)

Sat, 20 Oct 2018 07:20:54 GMT

I've used that stuff a few times. Works just as described. But quite expensive.

Re: Joes NEW Grey Beast (rikkir)

Fri, 19 Oct 2018 21:08:15 GMT

You might need some of this?

Re: (Randomity)

Fri, 19 Oct 2018 20:15:23 GMT

Yeah, that was also recommended by the tuner.

the engine loom is going to be redone while it’s getting sorted too. I’m happy that it works, but it looks like a dogs breakfast, so that’ll get sorted and I’ll actually record the function and location of every wire so it doesn’t get too confusing later if I need to diagnose something

Re: (Admin)

Fri, 19 Oct 2018 19:57:17 GMT

SW20 has a common problem of bad electrical connection to the pump. The connection in the cabin under the centre console can be a big voltage drop which will affect the flow rate of the pump. I highly recommend that you fully rewire the pump circuit.

Re: (Randomity)

Fri, 19 Oct 2018 19:52:07 GMT

Because I jinxed myself, here's an update once again.

Went to the dyno, there were a couple of minor issues to get it running properly.

Got a call today, the worst has been realised. it drops fuel pressure after 3k rpm.
Either the pump is on its way out, or the filter sock is clogged to hell.
Either way, tank needs to come out.
Picked up a Walbro 255 to replace the stock pump, will be redoing the wiring and upgrading the feed line to the filter to a new line which will tolerate e85 down the track (future proofing yo).

ECT's are also shooting up when idling, looks like there's a clog in the cooling system. after dropping the coolant, I can see why. Got pretty manky in there.

Anyone got a spare ally rad i could pilfer? may as well upgrade while we're there!

Engine has already been dropped out (making a fine art of removing 3S's these days), thinking of doing the oil and water pumps while its out, the oil pump was rebuilt, but thinking of going 5S pump instead.. Any suggestions for or against doing that? Water pump is in unknown condition, so might be best to do that too...

The other 3 engine mounts are in similar condition as the rear mount, so might as well sort them out too. See if i can make more mounts like the rear.

Either way, it's going to be a while longer before it's on the road. I've run out of funds, so my bank account needs to recover before the build can continue

Re: (Randomity)

Thu, 18 Oct 2018 12:52:36 GMT

Cheers Falcon, I'm looking forward to seeing if it holds too. Will be a learning experience to say the least.

Just dropped it off to the tuner then. A mad rush to replace the fuel filter as pressure was topping out as ~25psi and a quick adjustment of the new FPR and we're sitting pretty at around 50psi.
It explains why the first startup made it sound like a lump, and the enrichment tables were over the top at 60% fuel at idle... no fuel pressure will do that.
Ran terribly when loading and unloading from the trailer, but 60% fuel at 50psi will do that... Plugs are probably fouled to buggery too.

ETA sometime between tomorrow and next week for the complete car.
Still a heap of kinks to iron out yet, but keen to see how much power it lays down! I'll be happy with anything over the 200rwkw mark, but if I'm lucky, it might push 220.

Regardless of the result, I'm still calling it a win that it made it to the tuner in the first place.
This car hasn't seen a single mechanic in the time I've owned it, aside from the long-block assembly 2-odd years ago, and it's running and kind of driving purely through backyard mechanic work. It's been a hell of a learning curve!

Hopefully, the only thing left to do after this is tidy it up and properly drive it for the first time in about 2.5 years...

Re: (Falcon)

Thu, 18 Oct 2018 09:48:23 GMT

Yep, great read. Thanks Joe.
I can't see any reason that rear gearbox mount won't be good. I believe it can be stiffened up very significantly without any problems. I'm not convinced the front one should be made too stiff though.
Keep us informed as to how it all goes.

Re: (rikkir)

Wed, 17 Oct 2018 21:04:05 GMT

Great update Joe. I'm hoping it all goes well and you can start to enjoy it on the road.

Re: (Randomity)

Tue, 16 Oct 2018 23:17:08 GMT

So with a couple of weeks of holidays at my disposal, I decided against going over to NSW for what remained of the MTC and then check out WTAC and elected to work on the car instead!

What followed doesn't LOOK like much, but progress has been made.

The day it came home from a mates place, where it's been living for the past couple of months. It got its first wash in probably close to 2 years!
You can see in these photos that the exhaust isn't finished (still isn't), but i haven't nailed the position down yet, so I won't be cutting the tips until I'm happy with where the muffler's sitting, it's slightly crooked and that bothers me.
But it's functional and a little quieter than the old exhaust, which is a plus. It's a magnaflow 3" in to twin 2.5" out muffler and some 100 cell hi-flow cat in there, with a butchered Berk dump pipe.

I also got in contact with a tuner who specializes in Link ECU's, since I'm running a Monsoon, and they have someone familiar with 3S-GTE's, which is always nice. Given the strange combination of parts in this engine, it's probably best it doesn't go somewhere who tunes by throwing as much timing as they can until it starts pinging and then backs it off a degree or two *cough*Jaustech...

They asked that I fit a fuel pressure sensor, more for safeties sake as they can program in a failsafe or two if pressure dies. They also tried to get me to fit a new fuel pump, which is declined as I REALLY didn't want to drop the fuel tank out just yet. I'll save that for when the pump dies or I want e85... Neither seems likely in the near future. Stay tuned to see me eat those words...

As a result, I picked up a sensor, and then found out that SW20's feed line comes with 2 different parts, and sheathed VERY similarly... I snipped the not-rubber side, so the below happened.

Not all bad news though. with -6 fittings this line will be ready for a top feed rail down the track if the car calls for it!

I also noticed that the engine creaked quite a bit when you let the clutch out, which usually means worn torque mounts.
Lo and behold, they have separated themselves from the bearing cage.

Many of you would be aware that I like doing things myself. I also don't like spending money where it's not necessary.
As a result, this happened.

I made a new, solid rear engine mount.
This uses spring bushes from a Holden Rodeo, believe it or not. they were $30 from Supercheap, and I have another set so I can do the front as well.
The only downside is that they come with a crush tube that brings the ID of the bush from 19mm to 14mm.
Anyone who know's SW20's will know that engine mounts bolts are M12.

I could have cut off the captive nut and welded on a new one and just run an M14 bolt. I even bought the bolts and nuts to do so with.
But instead, I came up with this

On the left if the original crush tube, and on the right is some 19mm stainless rod, bored out to 31/64" (just over 12mm, I don't have metric drill bits in that size). It took AGES to drill that out.
The bushes are the same width as the stock engine mount (65mm), so the crush tube just had to fit, which it does.

The result is this, the cleanest part in the whole car.

I'm far from a photographer, so please forgive me.

It bolts up in the factory location using all the original bolts. I'm yet to see how it copes with the torque, but that's what road testing is for. If it fails, it just means version 2 is around the corner.

Lastly, I'm also looking at brakes. This is after the car actually runs properly and I drive it for more than 30 seconds without worrying that it'll explode (2GR incoming). It's booked in for a tune Thursday, and fuel leaks pending, it'll be on the road Friday with any luck.

Back to brakes.
Not the traditional setup that most people look at, like the 32 calipers on Supra rotors, or RX-8 rotors on the rear with the stock caliper spaced out.

I'm also considering the 32 caliper, I even have a pair ready to go! But the Supra rotors are far too heavy.
\

These are 2-piece rotors from an Evo 8. The brand, from memory is Girodisc, which I've never heard of.
They're the same stud pattern as an SW20, the hat offset is a little lower, but tolerable since I'm not planning on going with different wheels any time soon, clearance between caliper and wheel should be fine
The ONLY downside is that R32 Skyline front rotors are 30mm in thickness.
These are 32mm, so the calipers don't fit... Yet...
for fitting purposes, I'll be able to make these work, and once I have measurements, I can actually find something that isn't worn down to nothing. Worst case, I contact them and see if they have a rotor blank with the exact same dimensions, but with 30mm thickness.

Rear caliper/rotor combo TBD at this stage. I'm looking into Skyline calipers all round, but then handbrake becomes an issue (they use drums for their handbrake FYI)... Hydro?

I'm sure I'll be back by the end of the week with a running MR2, or plans for a V6 swap...