Seasalt's 2004 TTR Spyder (Sold) and 2002 2ZZ Spyder.

Re: Seasalt's 2004 TTR Spyder (Sold) and 2002 2ZZ Spyder. (2ZZW30)

Thu, 02 Jun 2022 11:44:25 GMT

Seasalt's time with the MR2 has come to an end, with me purchasing the silver 2ZZ MR2 and bringing it back with me to Brisbane. I'm seriously impressed with the mechanicals of the car, drives amazingly.
Seasalt has provided enough parts alongside the car to make your headspin, so I have many potential avenues in the coming years for projects!
I'm targeting 240WHP while keeping the car sub-950kg, I'll try keep this thread alive.

Re: Seasalt's 2004 TTR Spyder (Sold) and 2002 2ZZ Spyder. (Carmikey)

Sun, 25 Jul 2021 09:10:23 GMT

Wow, what an effort! Good job though. Hope it fixes all the leaks now.

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Re: Seasalt's 2004 TTR Spyder and 2002 2ZZ Spyder (seasalt)

Wed, 30 Jun 2021 06:44:35 GMT

Body now has 202,000 km.
Motor now has 33,000 km.

On the blue stayfast top purchased March 2016, I guess I should have avoided leaving it outside, as the rear window glue gave up and the glass fell in earlier this year. I went to the local windscreen people (big mistake, as they had zero experience with convertibles), and the adhesive they used, same as for steel frames, gave up after a month.

Many YouTube how to vids later, and purchase of 3M-8609 Windo-Weld Super Fast Urethane, 08609, Black, 10.5 fl oz Cartridge, some 3M Single Step Primer 08681 125 mL 8681, and (optional) 1/10/20PCS M4 Thread 40mm Suction Cups With Knurled Nut Clear for kitchen AK.

To clamp the glass to the top, I cheaped out and made my own. There are clamps designed for this though.

I also bought a Xtorque X3125 123mm (5") 120Kg Triple Heavy Duty Glass Suction Lifter from Sydney Tools, to be sure to be sure....

I had to clean away the adhesive residues. Used my dremel with a fine wire wheel. I now had double trouble, as a metal reinforcer had come away from the stayfast top, and I had to glue that back before I could re-attach the glass. I used E6000 craft adhesive.

Once the reinforcing piece was back in, cleaned off the glass. As per YouTube instructions, bought a packet of swabs to apply the Single step Primer. They said to not redip them when they run out, but use a fresh one. The primer, apparently, makes the re-gluing more UV resistant. I did the window all the way round, and left it to dry.

Later, came back, and put a run of Windo-Weld all the way round and then pulled the glass up into place with ratchet straps and the Xtorque triple suction cup thingo. Then applied all my home made clamps. Left it 48 hours.

Road testing in the rain, had one tiny leak behind driver onto the parcel tray. Got a new nozzle for the Windo-Weld, and went around the entire glass laying a tiny bead all the way around. Smoothed it with bits of clean rag dipped in mineral turpentine. The Windo-Weld is too messy to just keep using the same rag. Used multiple rags.

A day later, cleaned off any smears, residues, and edge excesses with an exacto blade and scalpel.

Not as good as a new top ($1000), but more economical.

Re: Seasalt's 2004 TTR Spyder and 2002 2ZZ Spyder (seasalt)

Tue, 22 Sep 2020 09:27:03 GMT

Just a TRD badge..almost invisible black, so a few minutes buff and cutting compound. Too much time on hands when it's stay the f' at home....

Re: Seasalt's 2004 TTR Spyder and 2002 2ZZ Spyder (seasalt)

Mon, 31 Aug 2020 23:19:33 GMT

Mounting the mesh. Strips of 8mm alloy attached around opening, with mesh screwed to edges.

Dummy fit again.

Properly put back together, but yet to create the holes for tow hooks. Looking for something to use as trim for the holes..

I should have connected number plate lights sooner. By the time I thought of it it was quite a challenge.

And provision for the tow eyes...

Re: Seasalt's 2004 TTR Spyder and 2002 2ZZ Spyder (seasalt)

Mon, 31 Aug 2020 23:06:07 GMT

Checking for fit.

Tow bolt threads kept accessible.

Blacked out.

Had to attach to ply frame, pin it down to get the mesh square.

Bumper with all the original insert mounting tags.

Mounting tags removed.

Re: Seasalt's 2004 TTR Spyder and 2002 2ZZ Spyder (seasalt)

Mon, 31 Aug 2020 22:56:12 GMT

Things you do in time of plagues.
The stock "Facelift" model rear grille. Half of it is blanked off by a crossmember, so it is only half as big as it looks.

The stock rear crossmember.

My effort, 8mm alloy, maybe not stylish in itself, but not visible once the rear is fully assembled.

Re: Seasalt's 2004 TTR Spyder and 2002 2ZZ Spyder (seasalt)

Wed, 12 Aug 2020 16:01:24 GMT

Stumble in town traffic mid summer.
Poor engine bay air flow at low speeds.
Heat soak?
incoming air temperature or dodgy sensor?
To do a blanket replacement of sensors, I'd have to drop engine out.
Hence the home-made cold air intake. Pod filter is in that alloy box.
Won't know if it works till mid summer rolls around again.

A miracle, fits on to old 1ZZ cold air intake take-off.

The three screws hold thick rubber on the underside, just a stay to stop airbox bouncing around.

Blame Covid boredom.

Re: Seasalt's 2004 TTR Spyder and 2002 2ZZ Spyder (seasalt)

Sun, 23 Feb 2020 23:10:36 GMT

Sold the TTR.

Re: Seasalt's 2004 TTR Spyder and 2002 2ZZ Spyder (Carmikey)

Tue, 23 Jul 2019 12:34:21 GMT

Ouch!

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Re: Retro-fitting Air-con (seasalt)

Mon, 22 Jul 2019 22:18:36 GMT

How much can you spend while not counting:

2005 Corolla Sportivo 2zz with C64 box. (94,000 klm): $1500
MWR Reverse Blockout $138
MWR .725:1 Sixth gear set $308
MWR Shifter shaft for Corolla trans $182
Carbon-Lined Synchro Set - Elise Exige 2-eleven Celica Corolla Matrix C6X 6-speed $437
Box split, .725:1 top gear, 4.312 diff and LSD installed. MWR selector shaft installed. Threaded holes for shifter bracket added. MKB Automotive, Lismore: $1200
Manual gearbox linkages, clutch system and pedal installed.
All necessary parts: $1500
Solid bush shifter kits $65
MWR RH Engine mount $60
Serpentine belt $40
Lift bolts (Toyota says "Flange bolts") $10
Initially, JDM 2001 Celica ECU installed. $100
Corolla Sportivo headers modified to clear crossmember. $120
First Exhaust by Franks Mufflers, Lismore. $950
1ZZ sump with baffle installed. Spacer extends oil pickup deeper into sump.
HKS SLD (Speed Limit Defencer) 2000-2005 TOYOTA CELICA ALL (Rendered un-necessary by Power FC.)
Toyota MR2 Spyder MR-S 2000-2005 Front Bumper Midship Runabout Blue JDM Emblem
Toyota MR2 MR-S Roadster Spyder ZZW30 Blue Wheel Center Cap set Genuine OEMParts
Speed Hut 10K tachometer: $240
Convertible Top, Blue Stayfast, Glass Window - $875
Fitting - $350
Apexi PowerFC - $AU1642.00 Customs adds $326.34, hence $1968.34
RDA brakes - Slotted & Dimpled Replacement Rotors, FRONT- $220.00 Pair - REAR- $220. Pair - shipping direct $20.00 Inc Gst – $460
Callipers rebuilt, painted, new pads. Stainless braided lines - $360
Engineer approval (so third Party insurance valid) $750
Mocal Large Diameter Flush Fit Fuel Filler Cap 4 Inch Diameter With Funnel Locking - $330
CEIKA $1,275.00 USD – Coilovers: $1808.32
CEIKA Pair 4kg/mm front and Pair 6kg/mm rear springs $300
RPF1 Rims Autotechnik $1275 + $85 delivery to 2480 - $500 deposited - $860 owing - Front: 15 x 7 +41, Rear: 16 x 7 +43, 8 week wait: $1360
RPF1, Rear: 16 x 8 +43: $775
DynoTune quote - $550 – Dean Amos – 0414560550 – 159 rwhp - $550
89279-17010 pull badge – get two.
SECOND PHASE:
2ZZ - 9000km Celica motor and C60 transmission $3500
PPE headers with freight: $1065
Second custom exhaust to suit PPE headers $960
MWR Reverse Blockout $138
MWR Shifter shaft for Celica trans $182
Fit above to Celica C60 trans, instal LSD $800
Another Dyno tune – 169rwhp - $500
Leather seat re-covers $510
New dark blue facelift air scoops - side –- $132 each $264
MR-S TRD Structural under body bar and brace $650
Blue/Black steering wheel with MR-S centre $350
160 AMP ALTERNATOR TOYOTA COROLLA MATRIX CELICA MR2 1.8L High Output HD $226
Spent: $26,127.66 not counting random decals, badges, rubbers, etc.
Original Purchase price: $6000

Total remembered: $32,127.66

(Can't remember what air-con retrofit cost, or find paperwork)

Re: Retro-fitting Air-con (seasalt)

Wed, 12 Sep 2018 22:13:04 GMT

Just can't help myself. 160A alternator on the way.

Re: Retro-fitting Air-con (seasalt)

Wed, 22 Nov 2017 20:20:47 GMT

Since fitting the AC, had a stumble/miss issue. I was kinda blaming the AC, but turns out the AC was innocent.

Both fuel pump and O2 sensor were faulty, and slowly getting worse. Rich down low and lean up top. AC load was enough to make it really obvious.

All fixed, and back on the dyno.

Re: Retro-fitting Air-con (seasalt)

Tue, 19 Sep 2017 16:01:48 GMT

The front pipes were the most difficult. (Murphy's Law). Getting the two to the condensor from the front of the "under-tunnel" was not easy. One of those chinese ring puzzles, twisting and turning to find the path. The large pipe found me taking the RH front wheel off, the plastic shrouding forward of the wheel, disconnecting a few elecrical plugs and undoing the solid radiator pipe brackets before it went into place from the wheel well. No way could it be got in place from in the frunk..

From here - (Yes, I have an extra diagonal brace there.)

To here -

So now, get the condensor in. I bought a new moisture filter from Technicair. They said to put it and the condensor in the car last. Booked in to get it gassed up day after tomorrow.

With AC as a "manufacturer option", 3 & 4 are a single pipe, as a "Dealer option" it is the two piece pipe.

Don't forget to bolt the solid rad tube back up before you put all the plastic shroud back.

EDIT 21st Septemba
Took her in to get the AC gassed.
The good news: no leaks
The bad news: flashing AC light indicating an issue. What's worse, local half holiday for a horse race. No time for troubleshooting etc, so why don't I troubleshoot it and make another appointment when sorted.

Sorting through it, found the magnetic clutch wasn't activating. I had no AC relay (Behind battery on firewall in a placky box) and a few fan relays missing in the frunk. That delayed the flashing light, but it did occur, after a bit longer wait. Was thinking I'd have to pull compressor. Removed emissions evap cannister to get at plugs atop compressor and spotted clutch wire hanging loose - little black plug. I must have missed it. Plugged it in. AC light stays on now. Just have to schedule another gassing time.

EDIT On the 22nd Septemba got it gassed. All functioning.

Re: Retro-fitting Air-con (seasalt)

Thu, 14 Sep 2017 13:57:49 GMT

Put the pipes on as far as the front bulkhead. First section tucks around the fuel tank. Only the plastic shroud needs to come off. Otherwise it can just be put in place.

The next section, that four bolt brace needs to come off, and take the two rearmost 17mm bolts out of the front under-brace to drop it down a bit. Once that's done the next section can slip into place. I replaced all O-rings with new ones, and lightly coated them with air-con oil, like the Technicair guy recommended.

Got the ends covered to keep crap out.

Just waiting for the condensor now, and I can finish up installation by installing that with tubes 9, 10, and 6 - and then take it to Technicair to evacuate, gas up and test.

LHD pic. Everything in cabin and forward is reversed.