AW11 Strut Rebuild

Re: AW11 Strut Rebuild (koop)

Sat, 14 Mar 2015 21:03:42 GMT

In addition to Theorist helpful guide i've added did a couple of things different.
1) To find the spots welds on the strut top i use paint stripper on the underside, this exposed the spot welds which can be easily seen. This took the guess work out and i was only slightly off on one spot weld.
You should also try to drill drill closer to the centre of the bearing cap, as drilling to far out may create difficulties later on when bolting things up.

2) I sanded and sprayed the area where i applied paint stripper on the strut top.

3)This wasn't mention by Theorist but it should be noted that when purchasing your new bearing ask for a sealed type. The stock bearing is an open type which is utterly crap as you cannot clean or re-grease it easily. As you can see the bottom side is now protected from dirt.

Note: I already purchased the foam seal prior purchasing anything else so i used it anyways, but its not necessary if you have a sealed bearing.

4) When drilling out the spot welds i used a 6.5mm drill bit. I think you can get away with a 6mm but you need to be precise. I also added a spring washer to the mount hardware as they sit flush under the allen bolt and prevent the bolt from vibrating off. The allen bolt i got was a M6x20.

Re: AW11 Strut Rebuild (koop)

Thu, 22 Jan 2015 00:01:30 GMT

thats really sad to hear Peter. Hope you get it back to tip top shape.

So i've found its a good idea to get the new dust seals as it helps with longevity and new boots. Looks like it time i put that order in " />

Re: AW11 Strut Rebuild (Paw11)

Wed, 21 Jan 2015 18:03:34 GMT

I will need to replace the block, crank, rods and pistons - basically the entire short motor. Budget doesn't allow much at the moment. I guess I will start with a good used engine.
Looking back the engine did feel weird and maybe down on power. I couldn't hear much with the helmet on. That is until it let go - then it sounded like a brick in the spin dryer.
Peter

Re: AW11 Strut Rebuild (rikkir)

Wed, 21 Jan 2015 15:05:51 GMT

That was you? I was right behind you when i saw all the smoke and flames erupted from your car :( . Pity i didn't have my camera on. I hope you get it repaired ok. I hate seeing that happen to anybody. Did you have any warning that something was wrong?

Re: AW11 Strut Rebuild (Paw11)

Wed, 21 Jan 2015 14:06:59 GMT

It's been in for over a year with no issues though I don't do many Ks in it. It got some resistance out of the steering and stopped a rattle in the front end.
Went ok at the tack day for about 10 minutes until the engine spat a conrod out the side of the block.
Peter

Re: AW11 Strut Rebuild (koop)

Wed, 21 Jan 2015 12:45:05 GMT

awesome post Theorist! This is definitely a better option then replacing to top hat.
How is it holding up now?

Re: AW11 Strut Rebuild (Reddtarga)

Wed, 21 Jan 2015 10:26:26 GMT

Theorist, great post!
Perhaps consider putting it, as well as your other post on the strut rebuild into PDF. and send it to:
Contributions for the 'Technical Information/ How to' section of this forum.

Re: AW11 Strut Rebuild (Paw11)

Wed, 21 Jan 2015 01:29:00 GMT

Replacing the strut top bearings is not too hard. I took a few pics when I did mine.

First up centre punch the spot welds that hold the bearing housing together. These spot welds may be quite hard to see.

Then drill out the welds with a 7 mm drill bit. A drill press will make this much easier

Should look like this

You can then separate the bearing and bearing housing away from the strut housing. This may need a bit of persuasion if you didn't quite get the centre of the spot welds

You can then tap the bearing out of the housing. I used a bolt to make sure I didn't damage the housing.

Tap in the new bearing - it's a common size available from any bearing supplier - get a decent brand that is suitable for an axial load. Cost me about $9.00.

Then you can bolt the lot back together with some quality m6 Allen bolts (normal hex head bolts won't fit) and nyloc nuts. I was able to get grade 12.9 bolts but 10.9 would be ok.
Give it a try there is not much to lose
Pete

AW11 Strut Rebuild (koop)

Tue, 20 Jan 2015 21:00:08 GMT

Hi All,

With the recent success i've had with the poly bushing install the balance of the stock suspension/shock is off kilter. I have no idea how old the existing struts and they are no obvious leaks or score marks on the shaft. So i'm looking to order a set of koni sports and eibach springs to improve handling but more importantly to refresh it.

From understanding and research i'm fairly confident in carrying out the process however for those of you who have replaced the front struts would you recommended purchasing new strut tops? As far as i know the fronts have a pressed in bearing that is near impossible to replace alone so the only option is purchase a whole new one. I believe rears dont have a bearing so there won't be any wear on them. In addition to the strut top would I require a new dust seal (sits between strut top and insulator) or anything else?

Cheers