Timmy's AW11 N/A - Heaps Good Edition

Re: (xtimmyx)

Mon, 26 Oct 2015 21:49:21 GMT

Been working 7 day weeks at work for a while now so progressing at a very slow rate. Since last time I've fitted a pretty nice oil/water temp gauge as well as a wide band 02 sensor, and I actually ended up ordering a Megasquirt DIY PNP.

And as by some miracle I managed to solder it up, load up a base tune and get the car running on the first go!

Now I just need to figure out what the hell I'm supposed to do with it. :) So far I've only been idling in the garage for a few minutes and taken it up and down the street once to try out the auto tune which seemed to work. I'll try to get a decent base map going with my current setup, then I'll start removing things like that pesky MAF sensor and drive the coil directly from the ECU.

But first things first, and so far so good.

Re: (kojab)

Thu, 10 Sep 2015 08:30:35 GMT

Why not go GM Delco. Cheap, bulletproof, reliable and no soldering.

Re: (xtimmyx)

Wed, 09 Sep 2015 21:19:38 GMT

Hmm yeah that is a fair bit cheaper actually, almost half price. How tricky is it to assemble? Any fine soldering required? I'm no soldering expert but I'm good with Lego and Ikea. ;)

Re: (Knightrous)

Fri, 04 Sep 2015 13:12:18 GMT

Consider the MS DIYPNP, it's a bit cheaper, a little more flexible and has a few extra features onboard. Requires a couple of hours to assemble, but it's all simple through hole components and jumpers.
http://www.diyautotune.com/diypnp/

Re: (feral4mr2)

Thu, 03 Sep 2015 23:58:42 GMT

oh, and if budget stretches, a light weight flywheel. :)

Re: (feral4mr2)

Thu, 03 Sep 2015 23:52:31 GMT

even if you can source a set of smallport na pistons to chuck in it. made a noticeable difference in my last bigport na aw. bought a 2nd hand set cheap from the forums.

Re: (MCT_MR2)

Thu, 03 Sep 2015 22:27:17 GMT

This is true. But also bear in mind valve diameter vs lift ratio. A 4age has 29.5mm intake valve. Usually 25% is a good standard ratio, 25-30% is performance rated, 30% is usually only good on race motors, and by the time you reach 50% it is at it terminal flow. A 10.3mm lift cam with standard valves will not be as streetable as you think.

Re: (Paw11)

Thu, 03 Sep 2015 22:05:54 GMT

There are a range of factors that affect ramp angle and asymmetric profiles can run shallower open than close. Time at maximum lift also affects ramp angle. Granted 11mm, 230 degree is probably not going to fly but Toda do a 10.3mm 264 degree that I would like to have a shot at. Be interesting to compare that with a shorter lift longer duration
P

Re: (MCT_MR2)

Thu, 03 Sep 2015 21:18:35 GMT

The reason you need a bit of duration with big lift (apart from power, and holding the valve open longer to try and get more air/fuel in) is the ramp rate on the cam. If you for example had a 230 degree cam with 11mm of lift, you would have a hard time controlling the valve spring, needing a massive seat pressure, and with that, you are going to have a lot of load placed on the timing belt, as you are trying to open the valve very quickly. You would end up with issues of the belt skipping on the crank gear, or stripping/snapping the belt.

Re: (Paw11)

Thu, 03 Sep 2015 21:02:30 GMT

I was looking at the specs of similar engines to the 4age and many have 10-11mm lift in standard trim. Even with durations similar to stock 4age. Apart from the shim arrangement I don't know why the 4age has such comparatively short lift. Bigger lift and shorter duration should be a nice combination of power and drivability.

Re: (MCT_MR2)

Thu, 03 Sep 2015 20:44:24 GMT

I have 272 8.7mm custom ground wade cams, and i have gotten away so far without flicking a shim out.

Theorist, shimless buckets are the best option, as shim under buckets can still come out of place with valve float, wrong shimming, or a lot of time on the rev limiter.

The pain is reshimming = new buckets.

Re: (Paw11)

Thu, 03 Sep 2015 19:38:52 GMT

I am thinking I will go for a high lift cam with a little less duration. Normally you would need to go with a shim under conversion but the cam buckets in the link below seem to be a neater, simpler and cheaper solution.

http://club4ag.com/faq_an...s/Lifter%20Tuning.html

Also a good review of various cam options if you haven't seen it already.

http://club4ag.com/faq_an...E%20camshaft_story.htm

P

Re: (rikkir)

Thu, 03 Sep 2015 19:13:29 GMT

xtimmyx
Thanks guys, pretty settled on option 1 now. Advantage being the availability of MS PNP (even though it'll cost me more than an entire small port engine). But it should pay off once I start doing further mods versus running the factory ecu on a small port.

So loosely my plan looks like this, please let me know if you've got any opinions as I'm rather new to this:

Stage 1:
Proper oil/water temp gauge + oil cooler

Stage 2:
Mega Squirt

Stage 3:
Cams (272/272?) + TRD 0.8mm head gasket
Adjustable cam gears

Stage 4:
ITBs

And somewhere I'll try to fit clutch/flywheel and possibly a c56 tranny.

So much for budget build...

But it will be so much fun!

Re: (xtimmyx)

Thu, 03 Sep 2015 17:09:30 GMT

Thanks guys, pretty settled on option 1 now. Advantage being the availability of MS PNP (even though it'll cost me more than an entire small port engine). But it should pay off once I start doing further mods versus running the factory ecu on a small port.

So loosely my plan looks like this, please let me know if you've got any opinions as I'm rather new to this:

Stage 1:
Proper oil/water temp gauge + oil cooler

Stage 2:
Mega Squirt

Stage 3:
Cams (272/272?) + TRD 0.8mm head gasket
Adjustable cam gears

Stage 4:
ITBs

And somewhere I'll try to fit clutch/flywheel and possibly a c56 tranny.

So much for budget build...

Re: (EssDub)

Thu, 03 Sep 2015 15:32:30 GMT

The only good 20V engine is a Barry Manon special from NZ :D